how easy is it to r...
 

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[Closed] how easy is it to replace CH radiator?

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i've got an old radiator in the bathroom i want to replace as its looking really tatty (flaking paint) + i want to fit a slightly bigger one (maybe a towel one).

Is it just a case of closing the valves either side and then draining the old one, and replacing with the new one? I've read about the need to clean new radiators to remove any grease / flux residues left in during manufacture? Is this still important if its only one radiator, or can i just bung a bottle of inhibitor in before i open the valves to connect it to the system.


 
Posted : 20/09/2012 8:52 am
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The inhibitor is in the system already probably. Its the cleaner/flush that you put in, flush and replace with fresh inhibitor.

I think sentinel's is X300 or X400, then X100 inhibitor.

Personally I wouldnt bother for one rad though.

But you may find the water that comes out is dark and maybe a bit sludgy in which case a flush and new inhibitor for the whole system may be a good idea.

As for replacing rad, to drain it get yourself a couple of big oven baking trays to slide under the valve when you undo it.

Also open the bleed port to help it drain.

Your tails wont line up unless you do like for like so you'll need to move at least one of the pipes. This will most likely entail a drain down because there's unlikely to be a service valve below the lockshield/TRV.

You might also have to consider whether you want to go in to the floorboards to change where the tail comes up, or whether to surface run to the new rad valve location.


 
Posted : 20/09/2012 8:58 am
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I'd just use inhibitor.

When taking the old radiator off the wall you can either drain down the entire system or even just the top floor which may be no bad thing if you want to refresh the system. If you don't want to drain down the system you will have to find a way of getting the old radiator off the wall without dumping all the water on the floor. Unless you have little drain points between the rad valves and radiator which I doubt then my method would be:

1) get some blocks/bricks about the same height as the pipe drops an place them near the radiator ready to rest the rad on.
2) Put some containers and/or rags under the valve couplings
3) Isolate both radiator valves
4) Slacken off both radiator valves but don't undo completely. You want to be able to rotate the radiator about the valves but not leak too much water
5) Lift the radiator off the wall and rotate carefully about the valves to rest on the blocks so you don't bend/damage the pipe drops. Make sure the far end of the radiator drops lower so that the water doesn't leak out
6) fully undo the valves and lift the radiator upside down. You can then lift it away and drain it somewhere suitable.


 
Posted : 20/09/2012 9:03 am
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If it's in a bathroom, just drain it into the bath.....


 
Posted : 20/09/2012 9:04 am
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It's straightforward, but be prepared for an 'emergency'.

Took a radiator off for redecorating this week. All went well until I had to take off the return valve. The nut fastening it to the radiator had been on there a while, and the valve rotated a few degrees relative to the pipe in the process of loosening. Cue water leak. The nut wouldn’t tighten against the olive, so there was a slight sinking feeling.

I managed to sort it with not much fuss in the end, but lesson learned.


 
Posted : 20/09/2012 9:09 am
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If you need top change the valves too, a pipe freezer kit might just do the just do the job


 
Posted : 20/09/2012 9:30 am