[Closed] Floor leveling help please

We had a similiarproblem with our "new" floor. Our kitchen units had screwed feet so it was a case of levelling up the units with these. Given that the units are level at the top so that you can fix the worktop the 1" fall in the floor should not make for problems.....unless you spill large quantities of water which could be problematic. If your units do not have adjustable feet you may need to resort to pieces of plywood etc to level up the units. The kick plates should hide this. Hope this helps

thanks, sorry i should have been clearer, it's not the kitchen units i'm concerned too much about but more the wooden floor i'll be laying after.

if the floor isn't level but is smooth/even, it wouldn't worry me. lay the floor and level the units at the base

call me picky but i don't want a sloping floor though 😉

call me picky but i don't want a sloping floor though

A kitchen floor that slopes slightly towards the outside door is a good idea, especially when the washing machine decides its going to spill gallons of foamy water all over it!

You can mix sand into some of the levelling compounds if you need to go deeper than a few millimetres. Not sure if it's good for an inch deep though?

Break up the old concrete floor and re-screed.

Although if you ask me I reckon you're being picky.

Get someone that knows what they seedling to do a skim of cement or concrete for you. Our builders hadn't built floor up enough in utility so added a skim on top. Worked fine

i agree, i have done cement skim on a floor before and it is still fine,

Weber floor flex is what you need. I use it all the time.
It's fibre re-enforced so can be used up to 50mm in one pour. Costs about 14 quid a bag from ctd. Sets extremely quick.

This stuff

www.netweber.co.uk/tile-fixing-products/weber-products/products/prep-preparation-products/weberfloor-flex.html

thanks that looks just the job

Use primer first though, forgot to mention that.
Either sbr, acrylic or neoprene. Not pva

SwissTony

if your floor is old concrete and you wish to put a wood floor down you need to get it tested for damp .
how old is the floor .
have any walls been removed and filled with cement as this is a favourite spot for damp to attack a floor covering through .

is the wood floor you are going to install stuck to the floor then you will need to consider a surface damp proof membrane .

if it is going to be a floating wood floor then a visqueen vapour barrier under the underlay is also important and ignore the fact that some wood underlays have a built in vapour barrier they are at best rubbish .

most latex screeds can be filled with aggregate for thicknesses upto 35 mm and can go down to a feather edge .

lots of variables but you only want to spend once .

I'm a pro tiler and kitchen fitter.

What I'd do if it was an inch out is lay a row of cheap tiles on the deepside of the floor so it was level with the highest point you're trying to acheive. Once they've set you have a guide for the depth of the leveling compound. Then use a latex based leveling compound bulked up with sharp sand and fill out the bulk of the deep area, you can use a straight edge from the tiles you've layed onto the high existing floor. Once this is set use the leveling compound to put a tight skim coat over the lot to fill out any minor dips etc. left from the 1st pass.

You can do all this without the row of tiles but it needs a very good eye for level, having a fixed marker is easiest for most folk.

Something like the Wickes latex based self leveling compound is ideal for this. Despite the description saying "self leveling" some trowel work will still be required. When I use the Wickes one I use a lot more water than the instructions dictate as I find it a bit gloopy in std. format.

Ah, just saw you were laying wood. Most of the directions still the same but you'll need to allow time for drying (1mm per day) then follow Trouts instructions.

I Just use the weber stuff above in one pour. Sets very level and It can even be tiled on same day.
If you're concerned about damp, use this

www.wickes.co.uk/Liquid-Damp-Proof-Membrane/invt/241217?source=123_4

Funky
wood is a very different animal to tiles and will ( not might ) fail if not protected from damp underneath .

Hire a concrete grinder and take down the high side and self level the low side.

That's what we do.

thanks all,

the concrete floor is in a 15 year old extension and i can see that visqueen has been put underneath it.

I can't grind the high bit as that side is level with the floorboards in the original part of the house.

I was going to use a standard or maybe silver rolled underlay under the whole floor and a good quality engineered oak flooring.

Nice tip with the tiles.

Screed it level and still invest in a sheet of visqueen as a vapour barrier for £20 its not worth not doing ( belts and braces )

Been laying floor coverings for 30 years now and still amazed that builders cant concrete a floor level its not rocket science .

Trout, I totally agree with you on the damp membrane for wood. I've used a few types, including the stupidly priced ball stuff and reckon the cheapo wickes is just as good. Plus you can glue to it then