[Closed] Fencing Advice..

Can't offer much in way of technical advice, but the top one looks like a pallet stood on edge to me. I'd go for the later or a loose board fence with arris/cant rail for looks alone.

Ha..well I guess the construction is similar!

Would feather edge on cant rails work out cheaper? More labour to assemble, but cheaper parts...

PS. looks for most part not important as will be weaving through bushes and trees on perimeter of garden.

Start with the foil, and only consider the Épée when you've got your compound attacks down. Don't skimp on protective clothing.

PPS. Should also add that there a lot of obstacles along route of the fence (tree roots, buried boulders) which may potentially cause issues if working with a prefixed panel length ...

Personally there are now two things I don't do with fencing. The first is to put any wood actually into the ground and the second is not to try to stop the wind but then I'm on the coast so it may be less of an issue where you are. From that point of view I'd go with option one and look at planting to also help reduce noise levels. For posts especially if they are going to be hidden away I start with concrete repair posts and then bolt my fence posts to them so none of the wooden structure is below ground level.

Looks like the Acoustic panels will cost you £6000 for the panels.
Plus Roughly £1750 for posts, concrete.
Plus the cost of installation if you don't do it yourself.
Not getting much change from £10,000 😯

I would go with another option personally.

I had over 100m of feather edge and posts put in about 17 years ago. Cost about £7k IIRC...

I'd swap the puppy for a cat 😆

If it were my job I'd recommend concrete slotted posts with concrete gravel boards and closeboard panels.

For £2.50 you could buy this

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If it were my job I'd recommend concrete slotted posts with concrete gravel boards and closeboard panels.

We have just had a load installed like this...
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Probably about 60 or so metres, starting at 6ft then dropping to 5ft where privacy wasn't as important. Cost us £2,200 including all materials (NOT including the decking - I put that in).

I had over 100m of feather edge and posts put in about 17 years ago. Cost about £7k IIRC...

I put about 70m of post/rail/picket in at my house. Cost me ~£500 in materials and a two weekends of labour

Wot avdave2 said.
I have option 1. Started with wooden posts but these rotted after a few years and were replaced.

Regarding wood below ground - our fence replaced an old wooden fence (which was still standing but on its last legs) which was put in some 30 years ago and all the posts were simply concreted straight into the ground. We live in a pretty windy spot and they have survived winds that have been strong enough to have once launched our 12ft trampoline across the garden.

So my view on it is to put in something that looks nice and be prepared to replace it again sometime in the future (although I have no intention of still being in the current house in 20+ years time).

EDIT: We did use 4'' posts though so they should take quite a bit of abuse and take some time to rot through.

Regarding wood below ground - our fence replaced an old wooden fence (which was still standing but on its last legs) which was put in some 30 years ago and all the posts were simply concreted straight into the ground.

Likewise, ours is 5" square posts into ground with concrete ballast.

So far (in 20ish years). I've only had to repair one post with a concrete spur and probably have another 2-3 which need doing in the next few years. The other 40+ are showing some signs of rot, but will last many years yet...

Although possibly modern posts won't last as long as Arsenic has since been removed from the Tanilised compound, which reduces its effectiveness quite a bit....

I had the fence replaced at the end of my garden after the panels all started to fall apart because of age, wind, etc.
The original 3" posts were still mostly ok but one had gone and another was suspect. The mate who did the work, with me lending a hand recommended feather board because of the old concrete being in the way at either end and a new wall having been built on one side, and it worked perfectly, being able to set the posts where convenient made life much easier, although digging the holes for them was a bitch, it's all brash around here 8" down and it's like digging out a dry stone wall. I nearly went for the top option with alternate boards either side, because of the wind which funnels between me and the flats behind the gaps would allow gusts to dissipate through the spaces, but the featherboard was cheaper and easier to do.
The old panels lasted nearly thirty years, so the new fence ought to, by which time I'm highly unlikely to really care.
He put weatherboards along the bottom to prevent the bottom of the feathers rotting out, which should make a big difference as well.
Only cost me £600 in total, but it's not a very wide garden.

Having dug out too many wooden posts in concrete ballast, there no way I'd have that done on my property. Concrete posts and gravel boards for me (which is exactly what we had done last year), might not be pretty, but function well and ain't ever going to rot or fall over in the wind. Taken the time to remove the panels this year to stain them, instead of making a mess of the posts/gravel boards.

Having dug out too many wooden posts in concrete ballast, there no way I'd have that done on my property.

The post (if not completely rotted and already fallen) will come out very easily.

In my experience they just rot at the top, where air and water meet, and the bit in the concrete is normally in very good nick, I've had to split the concrete to get the bottom bit out.

In my experience they just rot at the top, where air and water meet, and the bit in the concrete is normally in very good nick, I've had to split the concrete to get the bottom bit out.

Saying that, of the last few posts I removed, one hadn't rotted at all so I just took the pick axe to it from a couple of directions until it split and crumbled off.

so just leave it there for someone else to deal with at some point in the future

I had to remove about 8 to make way for the workshop, most were fully intact and the posts ended up as bench legs...

[url= https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8244/8482012261_94fa7cdf65.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8244/8482012261_94fa7cdf65.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/dVwwJH ]Workbench with legs[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/brf/ ]Ben Freeman[/url], on Flickr

If you don't like concrete posts you could use post protectors at the junction between the post and ground

I had to remove about 8 to make way for the workshop, most were fully intact and the posts ended up as bench legs

Most timber posts rot at the base where they meet the concrete because lazy landscapers don't weather the concrete away from the posts. Do this on all 4 sides. Also, use the incised timber posts, they have small incisions in them so the treatment goes further in to the posts and are usually guaranteed for 15 years. Line the bottom of the hole with gravel so no water sits on the bottom and for full belt and braces paint the part of the post that goes in the ground with bitumen. That's the way we were taught at on our City and Guilds course many years ago.

...AND make sure the posts protrude below the concrete so they aren't sitting in a puddle.

I'd go with a basic timber fence perhaps with horizontal slats rather than vertical.

Avoid incised post. They tend to be cheaper cuts of timber that don't absorb treatment well hence they are scored to allow treatmentent in. Pressure treatment is better imho albeit not as good as it use to be.
Post sleeves might be worth looking at as well as as has been said above the majority of post fail at the point of insertion into the ground. Think of them like a bitumen scarf.
Google wind fence. I've put a few up and they'd keep the dog in and allow the wind through. Not sure if they'll baffle noise though.
Tim

I seem to remember a bloke on Dragons den with a simple plastic post protector,
Shrink wrap type thing.
Seemed obvious realy.

I refuse to have those monstrous concrete posts and gravel boards.

We have had some [url= http://www.efcfencing.com/index.php/lichfield-open-pane-panel.html ]Lichfield Open Pale from EFC[/url] which is a horizontal version of the top picture. It looks really classy.

Salvage some heras fencing from your local construction sites.

professional landscaper here...the fencepost is your cock, the ground is AIDS, use protection: http://www.postsaver.com/

Thank everyone..some good advice here especially the posts about Postsavers!

Ok, if you're using incised posts make sure they're spruce and class 4. These have been verified by the Wood Protection Associations benchmark scheme as guaranteed 15 year service life.

I've used those post savers. Thought they were a waste of money, much easier to slap a bit of bitumen on with a brush.

Edit - If you're using any timber posts make sure they are Use Class 4 for contact with ground. Anything else is not up to BS standards.

I have used post savers before - I think that fence is still standing 15 years later...

I'd go option 1. I think it looks fine, will block a surprising amount of noise and will let wind flow through.

Since they stopped allowing the bad chemicals into tannelith it hasn't been so good, so anything less than about 10 years old doesn't last so well in the ground.
Could consider hardwood for the posts, we've re-netted old fences on oak posts. Newer fences get posts replaced.

Lot of variance in suppliers too, the better ones suitably dry timber before putting it in the tank to tannalise.

Built a fence from some Lawson Cypress (Leylandii bigger, fatter, brother), milled the heartwood, dried it, sent for tanalising and it sucked the tank dry. Had to hide the second batch amongst a stack of other stuff so that the tank owner didn't spot it going in.

I didn't say they don't work I said they're a waste of money and a PITA to put on. Bitumen is cheaper and easier to apply and is what post savers are made from.

I didn't say they don't work I said they're a waste of money and a PITA to put on. Bitumen is cheaper and easier to apply and is what post savers are made from.

Sorry. I didn't mean to contradict you. As a rank amateur I used them as they were recommended by a mate. I haven't used bitumen in liquid form - but can imagine it's good.