MegaSack DRAW - This year's winner is user - rgwb
We will be in touch
Seriously impressed that he can keep that in a straight line at that speed!
200o posts onthis thread and I am sure all the answers are here but:
Wherre does the newb start? i don't want to waste money but I don't want cheap tat. I am thinking 4x4 crawler rather than racer
I made airfix ckits as a kid but thats the limit of my experience
would this be a stupid place to start?
https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/products/tamiya-rc-mercedes-benz-unimog-406-cc02/
CC02 not the best crawlers. CC standing for Cross Country.
I’ve one of these and it’s great. Well worth the extra over the Tamiya kits I’ve had. Doesn’t come with ESC though but I bought a cheap Hobbywing Crawler esc and for less than 20 quid it’s been perfect.
Do you want the building / assembly of it to be part of the project or just to start using it straight away?
RTR (Ready to Run) will mean it's almost ready to go out of the box.
What's your max budget?
HI
Building it to be a part of it. I don't really want to go much beyond a couple of hundred if possible but I don't want to end up with cheap tat either
That's an excellent choice TJ. If you don't want to paint it I'll do it for you.👌
For anyone interested, this is my long term build at the moment.
Fitted a light bar tonight.
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I'm interested too in TJ's question. We've got two fairly entry level 2wd buggies on the go (both DT-03s - I went on to buy one for myself after getting my son one) and the next itch to scratch may be a crawler, but it has to be a kit (building it is half the fun) and I wasn't really thinking a £275 kit. However it's not so clear to me where the newbie starts if you don't want RTR.
I got that exact kit, it's an expensive way to build an SCX10-2 but none of the RTR options had the mix of bits I wanted. I remember someone saying at the time that hte best way to get a kit crawler these days is to buy an RTR then take it apart and tbf they were spot on.
Some companies do their crawlers in RTR and kit form so might be worth checking that. I know that my Carisma SCA-1E Range Rover is available as a kit and RTR.
I've just stuck a Hobbywing 1080 crawler ESC in my Scale truck, and it's waaaay better than the stock ESC (Carisma scale).
You can really easily programme different settings..
Much 'calmer' throttle response, and 50% reverse speed are FAB!
It's great cos I can now adjust the max speed (which isn't fast anyway, as it's a crawler) to, say, 50% for when my daughter drives it.
A well worthy upgrade.
Also stuck some brass hex weights in the wheels for a bot more weight low down. I'd love to get the brass pumpkin covers too, but nil in stock when i ordered.
DrP
Speaking of crawler kits, this turned up at maison du ginge yesterday:
Should keep me out of trouble for a little bit.
Thanks. So it feels like something like this at £175 exc electronics is the starting point in price terms for crawler kits?
But a quick search brings up a few comments about it being a real pain to build. I'd be in two minds about that - depends whether it's like that for good design reasons or bad ones.
I also bought myself a XV-01 Lancia kit which I won't get into for a while but am very much looking forward to. Looks like a great kit with the only real issue being finding good places to drive it. The nice thing about the crawler idea, to my mind, is that it feels like with a bit of creative thinking one can come up with/create great places to drive them very easily.
I've a coyote (mk1).. the Mk2 is meant to be better..
What's 'hard' for you is the fact that the DIY kit is £175 sans electronics...
Yet the RTR is only 30 quid more with all the gear...
TBH, I'd go RTR..buy a set of bearings for the crawler (as it comes with bushings) and enjoy taking the kit apart (axles/diffs) to fit the bearings.
DrP
TBH although it seems poor value to pay as much or nearly as much for kit as RTR, I'd still do it.
I feel like at this stage of life (8) I'd rather tread the normal path for a product, at the outset at least, while also actively seeking out the build project, rather than as a means to an end. The out of the box build is easier to hold his interest than choosing to tinker with something rather than spend the time driving it. We could do that later of course, like we have with the buggy, but I feel the ground-up build process is fundamental.
Reading back that sounds a bit illogical. I don't think it is though, I've just worded it badly!
As a kid back in the 80s I built, abused bodged etc a Tamiya kit and also picked up two older cars, one pretty complete but in need of love, one a sort of rolling chassis. Got loads of enjoyment and learning through all that but with RTR it feels like, for a kid, you have to break it before getting far along the learning and tinkering path. Maybe I'm just old...
@luket, this might be another option in a similar price bracket to the Carisma. From what I've heard the shocks might need a little fettling to get them performing well but otherwise I think they are supposed to be fairly solid. Not as pretty as the Carisma kits though (at least to my eyes).
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/hobao-dc1-1-10th-crawler-kit-g-wagon-style-427474
Off at a slight tangent... Why don't they put driver figures in them?
Some do, but the electronics and body mounts can fill up the cabin area, so not much space.
DrP
@Merak, That bug body looks great. What chassis will you be mounting it to?
Yep, amazing stuff Merak. Inspirational.
No new cars for me this year.
The Lunchbox has had a rebuild, but the 2CV and Tamiya buggy are in bits awaiting a few parts. Best get those properly mended and running before buying anything else.
The Arrma Big Rock continues to impress, but I keep smashing bodies. Have two atm, both more duct tape than polycarbonate. 😀
Might get another body and just keep that one as a shelf queen.
The chassis can handle anything, it would seem, but the bodies, not so much.
Kevin Talbot does a trick...shoe goo and plaster tape on the inside of his shells... seems to make them much tougher...
DrP
That trick does work, especially for bashers. Haven't done it on the Range Rover though as the slow speeds don't hammer it as much and the extra weight up high won't help. Does help I like the 'used' look on crawlers.
I’ve just stuck a Hobbywing 1080 crawler ESC in my Scale truck, and it’s waaaay better than the stock ESC (Carisma scale).
You can really easily programme different settings..
Much ‘calmer’ throttle response, and 50% reverse speed are FAB!
Same in mine actually, it's so much more controllable. I've also upgraded the servo to a high torque one so it can now push itself off rocks when stuck in a gully etc. Wheel weights and some chassis weights are the next upgrades when funds are available. I've also got a plan for the shell now it's suitably scratched and scraped.
The nice thing about the crawler idea, to my mind, is that it feels like with a bit of creative thinking one can come up with/create great places to drive them very easily.
You can use them literally anywhere compared to a fast basher or speed car. I have my Katana permanently in the boot of the car and it's so easy to just have a play on a bank, bit of loose ground or woods. You can have fun in a space a few metres square with the bonus that the batteries last for ages.
I shall try that, thanks.
£48 for a new Arrma body is waaay too much, I'll see if I can find something cheaper and reinforce it.
In terms of RTR vs Build. I have mixed memories of "helping" my dad build a 1980's Tamiya. If it's complicated; which means you're having to really read the instructions and take time over the steps than I know for sure that my impatient 7 year old isn't going to "help". Instant gratification and all that.
Having said that when something broke he was happy to help and showed an interest but total time to fix was probably less than an hour.
So the big thing about the Sca1e, in all of its variants, is that it's a really lovely scaler but it's not a massively competent crawler. Small wheels and high weight are big drawbacks, so it'll often fail to go places that a £150 FTX Outback will go without breaking a sweat.
(the same's true of the TRX4, it doesn't have the little wheels but all that beautiful plastic and the other bits of complication put the weight up really high)
So there's a big "what do you want to do" there. My crawler loses out big style on the looks- the wheels are a little out of proportion and it's got a light polycarb body that just looks toy-like, and the underdrive and all-fixed diffs and how the suspension's set mean it doesn't drive "right". It always looks like a toy. But it looks good enough for me and it's a hugely capable crawler- the centre of gravity is super low, and there's no frills, no complexity, everything's just chosen to make it crawl well. And I love it but another person might well never be happy with it. I love how the Sca1e looks but I couldn't be happy when playing with it.
DrP
Full MemberI’ve just stuck a Hobbywing 1080 crawler ESC in my Scale truck, and it’s waaaay better than the stock ESC (Carisma scale). You can really easily programme different settings.. Much ‘calmer’ throttle response, and 50% reverse speed are FAB!
Awesome innit. Just need to be careful with the radio settings as you can overlap and have conflicts- basically having 2 bits of electronics with lots of options can clash. Even the 1040 is good kit but the 1080 is so damn good and it's not even all that expensive.
TBH just about every crawler ever made benefits from better electronics and a more powerful servo. It's a bit off tbh, you can get a really competent 20kg servo for buttons but they still keep putting crap into really expensive trucks and the difference it makes is just vast- especially with good stiff steering parts so you're not just bending plastic. Combined ESC and radio is a ****'s trick that people keep on doing too.
Kevin Talbot does a trick…shoe goo and plaster tape on the inside of his shells… seems to make them much tougher…
DrP
I did this the other week on a basher body. It was triggered by a need for repair but most of what I did was to reinforce areas that aren't (yet) damaged. With plasterboard tape and shoe goo it was dead easy, like utterly foolproof easy, and I suspect the impact is big. I intend to do it at the outset on future shells. I even painted a bit black to stick on (spray glue) as a bit of window netting, just to see how it looked. That works too.
+1 for this. I know Kevin Talbot uses hot glue to stop the tape sliding around as you apply it, but I've found that if you give each piece a single smear of shoe goo and then give it a couple of minutes before touching it again it works just as well.
From what I’ve heard the shocks might need a little fettling to get them performing well but otherwise I think they are supposed to be fairly solid.
In my experience every RC that comes with oil shocks needs a bit if fettling to get them going when new. The Bugsta needed the preload setting up as it was too soft at the front and too hard at the back while the Carisma came with very little oil in the shocks so they stuck at full droop plus the preload on each was too hard. Adjusted it down to 40% sag and some 350wt oil and it was spot-on.
So the big thing about the Sca1e, in all of its variants, is that it’s a really lovely scaler but it’s not a massively competent crawler. Small wheels and high weight are big drawbacks, so it’ll often fail to go places that a £150 FTX Outback will go without breaking a sweat.
There's a V1 and V2 of the chassis, the main difference being how high and where the battery is mounted. Easy enough to convert to V2 but that version is a lot better and ripe for upgrades hence why I got one.
Came across this on an RC car forum... pretty clever stuff. Yutani Chainsaw Trike with rider
Awesome innit. Just need to be careful with the radio settings as you can overlap and have conflicts- basically having 2 bits of electronics with lots of options can clash. Even the 1040 is good kit but the 1080 is so damn good and it’s not even all that expensive.
I have got a spektrum dx3.0 that I was using to kinda alter the throttle progression and end ppoints etc etc, but the kids broke the trigger, and can i bloody find a replacement ANYWHERE??!! NOPE!
So now i'm running the stock (basic) carisma controller and the 1080..
Just today I ordered some new wheels/tyres for it.. Duratrax deepwoods.. get pretty good reviews.
I know what you mean about scale looks vs crawling..
I guess I'm after a 'scale crawler' here, with the limitations it has.
The proper crawlers are NOTHING like real cars are they...but are amazing!! I quite like the truck looks!
DrP
EDIT - i too stuck a 20kg servo in..much faster and stronger!
I ended up with 30kg in both of my 1:10 crawlers running at 7.2V, love how it works in gullies etc, you can really bully the thing. But it really exposes weak parts, ripped all the bolts out of stock axial c-hubs frinstance. 20kg is probably a more sensible balance but, literally nothing about this hobby is sensible so **** it.
reluctantjumper
Full MemberThere’s a V1 and V2 of the chassis, the main difference being how high and where the battery is mounted. Easy enough to convert to V2 but that version is a lot better and ripe for upgrades hence why I got one.
Yeah, the V2 is definitely a good improvement but it's still on the "scaler" side of the slidey scale rather than the "how good at crawling" end. Which like I say is absolutely fine, it's horses for courses.
Had a go at an SCX-24
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Nice... i must resist getting one of them! The deabolt looks cool!!
DrP
I've just fallen into the trap of RC cars for the boy for Christmas. I've spent more than i wanted, but got an FTX Outlaw (standard type) coming. The world of RC is as much a mindfield as MTB, and i can already see upgrades coming at some point.. He'll be 10 in acouple of months, so hopefully it's not too much of hazard. We've got a big garden and drive, so should be plenty of room to thrash it around in..
It's a biiig trap!!
But fun!
I've stuck new wheels/tryes on my scale truck..they're 1.9, ut come up pretty tall/big. The deepwoods get great reviews, and are a lot softer/grippier.
But...they catch the wheel arches now!
What I REALLY want to do is get a hilux shell and make this:
May need to get wider wheel arches though!!
DrP
Hi All
Off the back of the cheap Amazon truck, I've ordered the same thing branded FTX
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/ftx-tracer-1-16-rtr-truggy-orange-1332661
I'm a complete newbie so would appreciate some advice - I've ordered two of the above for my two boys. This may be a stupid question and one I should have thought about but.... will they operate on the same frequency?! I've looked at the online manual and can't see any way of switching channels etc.
thanks
@ropeyreignrider they will work fine together. 2.4ghz doesn't require different crystals and problems with interference like in the old days 👍🏻
Thanks stumpy01 , that's a relief!
Another newb question... the site lists a LIPO battery as compatiable with the brushless-ly upgraded versions of the cars.
Does this mean it wouldn't work with the box standard one?
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/ftx-tracer-lipo-7.4v-1000mah-25c-t-plug--1333706
Vs "normal"
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/ftx-tracer-li-ion-7.4v-800mah-battery-1332709
thanks in advance
Pass on that one. My Tamiya is brushed and runs on Li-Ion I think. I've never looked into Lipo batteries.
having spent the best part of 3-4 hours today trying to figure out if the newlwy purchased boys (dads) toy can take LiPo i know you're pain.
All i can figure out so far is
If going from NiMH to LiPO or LiIon - don;t get a "C" rating too high as you could kill the motor (higher c = quicker allowable discharge rate) - fo newbs like my <cough me> son, don't go above 30-50C even though loads of batteries are 80C+!!
And then there is the ESC's - some wont take LiPo batteries i think, and then they are limited to the number of cells in a LiPO, but not number of cells in NiMH - why is that - i cant figure it out..
im quite sure there are some geeks on here who can just tell us what to do..... ?
And then there is the ESC’s – some wont take LiPo batteries i think, and then they are limited to the number of cells in a LiPO, but not number of cells in NiMH – why is that – i cant figure it out..
Supporting LiPos generally just means a low-voltage cut out. To avoid over-discharging the battery, which is bad for the battery and potentially dangerous, the ESC will detect the number of LiPo cells and then cut out if it reaches a minimum voltage per cell. e.g if the cut-off is 3V/cell, it'll cut off a 3S LiPo at 9V, and a 2S LiPo at 6V. So there will be specific numbers of LiPo cells that a given ESC can detect and work with.
The ESC will have a maximum voltage that it can handle, regardless of whether it's LiPo or NiMH. A LiPo cell is about 2.5 times the voltage of a NiMH cell, so the max number of NiMH cells will be about 2.5 times that of the LiPo limit. Most ESCs do quote a maximum number of NiMH cells.
I'm curious as to why you're already thinking LiPO?
NiMH is perhaps a better bet for initial playing around. I don't have LiPO but my local hobby shop warned me about the perils of charging etc and the basic NiMH is more than enough for Sweajnr.
Thanks @pdw i was tempted to give smudge a call to see if he could enlighten me and maybe even supply something.! Only reason I was looking at this was for run time reasons of having higher capacity in a lipo Vs NiMH..
Nearly there.
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pdw
Free MemberSupporting LiPos generally just means a low-voltage cut out.
Well, usually. But sometimes with more basic or older electronics they basically rely on the relatively low max current delivery of a nimh pack, so they burn up if you fit a typical lipo and you have a decent draw on your motors. Especially with crawlers since you're way more likely to stall a motor
It was the one that DrP mentioned for £45 (at the time)
Someone else mentioned that it’s very similar to the FTX trucks but that you can get a full range of spares for them.
So I bought two of the below for my boys on the basis that when they destroy them I can fix them fairly easily and cheaply!
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/ftx-tracer-1-16-rtr-truggy-orange-1332661
@merak love the heinz logo and the one wonky spot. Attention to detail and steadiness of hand is spectacular, how the hell do you do it?
@rockhopper70 and @luket
That's very kind. I find a straight single malt helps with any shakes.
I don't ever actually use them, I sell them on. The challenge/satisfaction for me is the bodyshell.
I'm having a go at this livery next.
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Do any other body shells fit on a MK1 Grasshopper?
Mine is in a right mess.
Picking up some bits for the kids the other day seem to have accidentally walked out of the shop having got an FTX Kanyon as well. Will be painting it up as my Landy in due course. Any upgrades I need to be thinking of?
I could use some advice, my lovely girlfriend bought me Tamiya Escort MK2 for Christmas. The build has commenced but she didn't buy a controller etc. as she didn't know what I wanted. So I've taken a look but I'm unsure what the best options are, any advice or recommendations gratefully received. Cheers.
@BigM my first build came with a cheap and cheerful wheel and TBH, it drives exactly the same as the posher one that I went for next. This is what my bundle came with and it’s been ideal.
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/core-rc-code-24g-fhss-3-channel-steerwheel-combo-388536
If it was just the Escort kit you got then take a look here
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/tamiya-escort-mk.ii-rally-mf-01x-1334538
Look under the bundle tabs and it will show you all the electronics you need.
Do you have the bearing kit or are you building it with original bushings? If so, stop! Order the bearing kit for MF01X. Much easier to do it now during the build stage.
BigM
Free MemberI could use some advice, my lovely girlfriend bought me Tamiya Escort MK2 for Christmas. The build has commenced but she didn’t buy a controller etc. as she didn’t know what I wanted. So I’ve taken a look but I’m unsure what the best options are, any advice or recommendations gratefully received. Cheers.
Flysky GT3C is very hard to beat- inexpensive but high quality and loaded with features. Also has a lunatic modding scene adding extra switches and suchlike should you ever want them.
Yip, it's another Escort.
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Fin.
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@merek that looks amazing! Well done
Just like the real ones.
Cheers @bobodaclown🙌
Busy modeling day yesterday.
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Thought there might have been more Christmas postings of new RC stuff!?
@Merak Your work looks stunning 🙂
Do you do requests by any chance?
I have an older 3.3 Revo that I converted to brushless and not touched it again since the conversion a good few years ago. It has the original Revo body but would love to change it for something else.
Don't really know what would suit it tbh, but if it is something you can do I'd have a look.
Not looking for mates rates, although an indication of what you'd charge would be nice if possible.
Son received his FTX Outback to much joy over christmas (dad equally). Hoever after about 10-12 goes/play around the motor appears to have burnt out. Im sending it back (Amazon), but i have expect the next one to have the same issue. I appreciate motors are relatively cheap, so in anticipation of it happening again brand motor will last longer than the stock 550 that's in it? Or do i get a brushless??
cheers all.
I have an older 3.3 Revo that I converted to brushless and not touched it again since the conversion a good few years ago. It has the original Revo body but would love to change it for something else.
INTERESTED..... how did you convert? did you lose all the middle gearbox etc?
DrP
Oh man this thread is dangerous! Some amazing looking cars and the detail on those bodyworks @Merak is amazing great work!
I got given these old Tamiya cars given to me, be good to return them to looking decent like the ones above!
Any tips??
https://www.pinkbike.com/u/baggyshorts/album/RC-Cars/
Those are old, I'm not up to speed on how much vintage Tamiya stuff is worth but there's a big market for it. I'd just clean them up as best you can using a brush and compressed air.
"Sui
Free Member
Son received his FTX Outback to much joy over christmas (dad equally). Hoever after about 10-12 goes/play around the motor appears to have burnt out. Im sending it back (Amazon), but i have expect the next one to have the same issue. I appreciate motors are relatively cheap, so in anticipation of it happening again brand motor will last longer than the stock 550 that’s in it? Or do i get a brushless??"
2nd time out with son's FTX Outlaw and clipped a tree breaking the suspension holder and bending the pin. 1st time out had to sort the front left shock as it was stuck solid (easy fix though) and the spare wheel flew off the back. Not sure if any of the parts are checked before leaving the factory 🙂
The spare bits are really cheap though, but I expect to be upgrading plastic for aluminum spares regularly. 11 year olds and brushless may have been a bad idea.
Not a Christmas build but started in this just before. It’s a TRX4 kit with a carisma prairie wolf body on top and is still waiting on me printing out a few custom parts for sorting the body mounting and for the shell to get some paint.
So far it’s only been briefly driven round the house but I’m looking forward to getting it finished enough to take out and get it dirty.
@alexandersupertramp you must have got the upgraded brushless version - i did debate this, but it was another £70 more (son has the outlaw, not Outback -my bad).. What's the motor in yours? And yep seen that spares are quite cheap, but would prefer it if they didn't break in the first place..
It's the Blue shell version, can't remember the price paid though. It was Black Friday deal. No idea what the difference is in the two versions. With the large travel on the shocks it twists a lot when accelerating on the rear wheels. Brushed may do also.
It is bad that your's broke so soon, ours was driver error, like a dog with a broken leg when he picked it up with one corner hanging down. He was so upset, practice on the football pitch for a bit when fixed.
I have ordered this card that plugs into the ESC and can limit the power a bit until he is safer in the woods.
https://www.etronix-rc.com/etronix-photon-sbs-led-programming-card
I got given these old Tamiya cars given to me, be good to return them to looking decent like the ones above!
Look like a Holiday Buggy, Sand Scorcher shell, and a Rough Rider. Quick look on EBay suggests you could probably get a bit for them, not a huge amount but certainly enough to buy a newer model if you fancied that as an option.
have been lurking on this thread - great work Merak!
this and luket of this parish getting a car with his boy recently has had me looking and learning a lot more than i probably wanted to know about RC cars over this holiday. i never had one as a kid and it was always a scratch i wanted to itch. going to see if it's still itchy when the TD2 astute comes to these shores...