MegaSack DRAW - This year's winner is user - rgwb
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Car's spare wheel past the point of repair, so looking to replace.
It's a 205/55/16 tyre on it and there's 5 bolts on the wheel, it's not alloy. Is a wheel with that size of tyre and that number of holes standard across different makes of car, or what? The various online guides aren't making much sense. If my car's a Vauxhall, would a 205/55/16 wheel from a Honda (say) fit, or is there more to it than that?
Makes 9mm/10mm/15mm/20mm/boost or not seem simple.
Nope, different bolt patern and different off-set between manufacturers but loads of cross-compatibility if you know the sizes etc.
Seem to recall Vauxhall’s have an odd off-set, although that might be horribly out of date.
Urgh, that's what I feared.
Bolt pattern, offset and centre bore.
Why can't they just agree on one wheel size and one fitting? Keep everything interchangable and much more simple for us muggins who have to buy the things.
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Sorry, wrong forum.
The easiest way, if it's a common car, is to stay in brand- but even then they're not all the same, like, ford have at least 2 different bolt specs on modern cars (5x108 and 4x108, y u do dis ford?)
But also worth checking for alternative fits- like, some jag wheels fitted my mondeo. And that worked great because jag owners tend to look after their kit and fit good tyres, whereas mondeo drivers tend to ram all the kerbs and fit autogrips. Also jag owners seemed to care less about getting a good price.
Sometimes, it's something you can work with- my spare alloys for the mondeo were for some other fitment but the bolt circle diameter was correct and the offset not too badly off. The centrebore was bigger but I fitted spigot ring spacers to bring it down to spec.
Same brand won't necessarily help.
A Subaru Impreza and a Subaru Outback will fit, but their offset will be different...width too I believe.
Most wheels are hub centric, the centerbore of the wheel carries the load on the hub, not through the bolts/studs.
Many aftermarket wheels will have replaceable hub centric rings.
Stud/bolt Drillings can also be different chamfers so you'd need the correct nuts to suit the wheel.
There are web resources to see what's on your car and what you need.
Presumably you are talking about the rim being past the point of repair. How??
Numer of bolt holes (3, 4, 5 etc)
PCD of bolt holes (104, 108, 110, 112 etc)
Bolt hole size (M10, M12 etc)
Bolt hole seat type (ball, taper etc)
Centre bore size (57.1 etc)
Offset (ET35, ET 45 etc)
Rim diameter (16", 17" etc)
Rim width (7J, 8J etc)
Rim load capacity
Then tyre size, load capacity
Normally easiest if its a common car to just get another wheel on ebay/from a yard.
Your user manual should tell you what spec of wheel is required.
I'm currently looking for a set of steel wheels for my car and the best resource I could find online for buying them new was
£51 each for my car as oppposed to £120 each from the Mitsubishi dealer.
16" 5X114.3 6.5J with 38mm offset and 67.1mm centre bore really makes the roads come alive.
Most wheels are hub centric, the centerbore of the wheel carries the load on the hub, not through the bolts/studs.
Common fallacy, absolutely not true. All the centre bore interface does is ensure that the wheel is central on the axle (which can also be achieved pretty easily with tapered - i.e. not 'top hat - nuts/bolts and appropriate seats.)
The load of the wheel is transferred from the clamping force of the wheel face onto the hub, which is acheived by doing up the bolts/nuts.