[Closed] Am I mad. Tiling content.

How about a section of plastic bathroom panel on top of the remaining tiles, fixed across the gap and resting on the edge of the bath? That was my bodge of choice when I had to smash out an inset shower valve and patch the hole in a watertight way. Gives you an edge to seal properly at the bottom.

My initial thought would be to make a feature out of the lack of a matching tile by going for tiles a band of contrasting tiles cutting them down to follow the line of the bath but this only works if you want to keep the rest of the tiles.  The render idea would work as would a spectacularly wide grout joint but in tie both would be susceptible to mould in the longer run (I am currently working through my list of 'six month’ bodges 14 years after carrying them out after spectacularly underestimating the impact of a second and third child and naively believing that we had abolished the boom and bust economy)

My initial thought would be to make a feature out of the lack of a matching tile by going for tiles a band of contrasting tiles

Yeah I'm not that fussed on the miss matched colour but the size difference is a chore and I can't even describe how uneven the remaining tiles are.

Six months? Is that a fixed 'we've got a new bathroom being fitted in six months' or more of a moving target?

If a short term fix before a new bathroom is fitted, I'd just be using some perspex sheet stuck to the current tiles with silicon, down to the edge of the bath. Perspex will be thinner than proper shower board.

Why faf trowelling mortar smooth and trying to make it look decent? You'd still probably need to tank it or paint it to make it waterproof anyway.

I might just do it, paint it grey and frame a kitsugi definition on the wall.

So the previous owner was a DIY cowboy and you're going to sort this out by being a DIY cowboy? Just remove the tiles and do it properly.

Why is 6 months important?

Why faf trowelling mortar smooth and trying to make it look decent? You’d still probably need to tank it or paint it to make it waterproof anyway.

a. I have the materials to hand. And no other use for them currently.

B. I am a bit of a dab hand at smoothing mortar but I really just mean not ragged.

C. 6 month... Hopefully before bathroom get stripped back to brick. But you know how these things go.

I totally get what you are saying though, thing is there us nothing to support the bottom of a perspex sheet the tiles are gone all the way round.

I guess your point about tanking is my question. What would one tank with.

Why is 6 months important?

Funds and current life situation.

I cannot take all the tiles off and do it now because the entire bathroom is tiled, and once that's happened I need to gut it completely which is the plan.

Nothing would give me more pleasure than doing it all right now. It a purely temporary stop gap fix I need before I can afford the time and expense to do a good job.

I totally get what you are saying though, thing is there us nothing to support the bottom of a perspex sheet the tiles are gone all the way round.

The side of the bath? One of the advantages of shower board is that it comes with proper corner/end pieces so you can fit it around two sides and create a squared edge for sealing.

It depends on cost vs durability. If six months really is six months, you might just get away with your method. I'd still be inclined to mortar the gap then put something on top of that.

Hadn't thought of that but yeah that would seem sensible.

Keep the mortar for when you do the bathroom properly! If the tiles are that bad then you'll at least need to skim the wall smooth again before re tiling.

Tanking slurry isn't really meant for mortar, should go direct on to blockwork (we striped mortar before tanking our bathroom) but it 'might' work. Won't be pretty though as it's black or grey. You could try waterproof paint, exterior grade stuff. That would probably last until it needed pulling down.

As above though, if your fixing a bodge with a bodge it kind of doesn't really matter 😜 it'd be just as easy to fill the gap with silicon and be done with it for six months 😀

The gap is a tile high 150mm+25mm of previous gap

Thats alot of silicone 😀

I feel the biggest difference is I know its a temporary bodge rather than a permanent solution.

This guy went round sockets in the kitchen by using half tiles to box round the socket and started along the rest of the wall with the tiles stepped down half a tile until the next socket where it once again stepped down, he grouted the sockets in! 😀

my old bathroom was a similar mess. My mate (who's a plumber, but instructed in this case to make good-enough-at-least-cost) used something like this

https://www.byretech.com/acatalog/Bath-Seal-Ultra10-kit-rectangular.html

to bridge the gap and stop the leak I had. Worked well for 5 years (I then sold it)

Get some plastic ceiling cladding, it's about 6-8mm thick and 200mm wide. It usually has a tongue and groove but silicone will sort that out. It's about £8 for a 2.6m length.

😄 I feel your pain! Stripping plaster off the dining room wall, found a knock out box with cable still feeding it, just plaster over! No conduit cover or marker, just filled with plaster. Still live as well, just a chock block on the end😡

Yeah, I'd still go back to my first suggestion, perspex sheet stuck to the tiles. Rest it in a bead of silicone just off the edge of the bath. It'll hold for long enough, with the added bonus when you do eventually pull it down it'll bring the tiles with it!

Or you could just not slosh water over the sides when you're in the bath.

Or slap a plastic trim or pvc skirting board over the gap, use a tile trim at the top if you cant find one with a radiused edge.

https://www.mrplastic.co.uk/fascia-soffit/fascia-boards/magnum-flat-fascia/freefoam-175mm-x-16mm-magnum-flat-fascia-2-5-metre-white

Update.

I was overruled... About to grout some quite epic tile gaps. Sacked off the spacers and eyeballed them straight and level ish.

Roll on cleanliness.