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I'd change the filter if it's cheap enough & easy enough, it certainly now sounds like a fuel issue
Fuel filter next then, cheers... Knew i shouldn't have sold the gf my old car...! 🙄
Fuel cut off solenoid on the injector pump?
Going to offer my favourite tip...check the earth strap from battery to body and battery to engine block is good. If the connections are corroded, they will have a high resistance when under load and give the symptoms of a poorly battery. I believe a quick test is to use a jump lead to connect the negative terminal to the engine block as this will by pass any cruddy connections, and give it a crank.
Also, any chance the engine is flooded? Doesn't seem to be a problem with more modern cars, but if you've been pumping the gas pedal, try holding the pedal fully down to the floor and keep it there whilst trying to crank the engine for 20-30 seconds a few times. This will clear any flooding.
just finished replacing all 4 glowplugs in my 2002 honda civic. not a single plug was working hence the reluctance/miraculous starting. 66quid well spent.
ECU spiked and fubarred? Know its not much help suggesting the most expensive part on the car but I know it can happen (especially with Pugs so I have been told).
As someone else said the fuel cut off solenoid could be faulty, the rubber boots that surround the important connection sometimes perish and let damp and muck in. Also check that all the fuel injection piping and rubber small bore tubes are intact and that the blanking plug on the last fuel injector is in place. Finally if your fuel filter housing has an air bleed plug on the top make sure its done up and not drawing in air.
As its a Pug, is there a hand pump in the engine bay in the fuel line? If there is sueeze it thirty or som times to ensure that there is actually diesel getting through to the pump and the obvious-you have got fuel in your tank aint you?
Its hopefully going too be something ridiculously straight forward.
sadly without starting to run full diagnostics it is near impossible to say on a forum - take it toa garage unless you can get the ecu read somehow. You can see if the solenoid works/fuel is being delivered as you will get smoke when you crank it- if not a fuel supply issue is the next to check for the home mechanic
how much diesel is in it? my missus ran my volvo down to the point where the trip computer said 70 miles to empty tank, it started the following morning then conced out after a hundred yards. Turned over ok but wouldnt fire, added £30 of diesel fired up no probs it was only -5 overnight. diesel turns to sludge at low temp and little in tank.
there is three quarters of a tank of diesel in it.
I tried the spooky_b329 approached, fired, bit of crap out the exhaust but still no joy...
all the electrics in the car are working as normal, when i turn the key all lights up then goes off, crank engine and just turns over but doesn't fire...
I can't get the car to a garage due to the weather & the state of the roads around our street.
When you say it fires, does it just start catching/firing as you are cranking it, or does it start up and then stall a few seconds later?
it catches, but then almost instanly stops
then it won't get back to that point until i leave it a bit
Imobliser?
Could be the electric fuel lift pump in the tank died, or not getting power. If you listen around the tank area, it should run for a few seconds when you first turn the ignition on.
Check the Inertia cut-out switch, as they sometimes trip for no apparent reason, and would cause the pump not to run. Also the fuel pump relays can fail, so you really need to check to see if the pump is getting power. If you lift the back seat, there may be a big round grommit that allows access to the tank.
Another vote for the fuel pump. My van has a low pressure lift pump at the tank, and a high pressure pump at the engine. The low pressure pump failed, the high pressure pump would keep the van running for a few seconds and then stall.
Ok, might be a the following: diesel has some water in it which froze in the low temperature. Add a pint of methanol to the tank, it'll melt all the ice and free things up. If the car starts then it's the fuel. Cost? A couple of quid and you will not damage anything.
+1 for fuel pump. Had similar on a VW Touran. Known problem with VAG cars.
Please does anyone know how to bleed the fuel pump?
I had similar problem last year and apparently only one glow plug was working. they've all been replaced and is better now but still do the on / off thing before starting on really cold days but not necessary
it seems to want to start now but I think the problem is there could be an air lock in the fuel... I don't know how to solve this. I have followed the pipes both in an out of the fuel filter but there's no obvious pump or anything....?
I canonly speak about VAG fuel filter where on the top there is a small 10mm bolt head, this is the air bleed on the fuel inlet side. If its left undone slightly you end up with an air lock.
Some Pug engines have a black 'hand pump' and will bleed out the air when this hand pump is primed. Best way of finding it to be honest is to invest the £15 on a Haynes manual- they have never failed me in 27 years of motoring and many many home engine/rebuild/repairs etc etc.
Have you checked the fuel lines/common rail ie the piping to all the injectors, a small hole/perished area or missing blanking plug will give same effect as an air lock/ fuel cavitation.
I will try googling some engine images to see if I can find an obvious bleed plug/point.
http://www.askthemechanic.co.uk/engine-problems/bleeding-diesel.html
just as a starter-no pun intended.
Just one other thought, have you tried starting it with the fuel filler neck open? If there has been a build up of snow and ice on the tank breather pipe theoretically you may have a rather large vaccuum in the tank which will be obvious when you undo the fuel filler cap.
http://www.christiantena.net/motor/peugeot/hdi/b1bbm2k3.htm
Some detailed cutaway diagrams/schematics- where do you live? If I was anywhere near I would come out and take a peak, maybe someone else is nearby you that will do you a big favour?
may be of some use, the 2.0Hdi is the same between them [url= http://www.citroenpicasso.org.uk/picasso/index.php?showforum=9&prune_day=100&sort_by=Z-A&sort_key=last_post&topicfilter=all&st=20 ]picasso forum[/url] or this, specifically [url= http://www.citroenpicasso.org.uk/picasso/index.php?showtopic=19268 ]cold starting issues[/url]
just read the end of that thread and it's not fixed! oops!
Hi Neil,
Did I mention 'Easy-start' 🙄
There is no easy way to bleed these, but running it on easy-start will get it cranking enough to fire up.The ECU needs to see over 200 bar at the fuel rail to start the injection process.
A word of warning here though. Modern diesel work with very high pressures, so don't go cracking open the injectors to see if there is fuel there, as some may suggest.
Hth
Marko
Bleeding a 2.0 HDi is easy. You turn the ignition on, and crank it over. The electric lift pump takes care of bleeding, combined with a bit cranking. If you disconnect one of the plastic fuel pipes going to the high pressure pump or filter (or take the top of the fuel filter), fuel should pump out as soon as you turn the ignition on (pump should run for a few seconds after the ignition is turned on) and when the engine is cranking/running.
Under no circumstances slacken the steel injector pipes on a common rail engine. The pressures involved can cause serious injury.
There is no easy way to bleed these, but running it on easy-start will get it cranking enough to fire up.The ECU needs to see over 200 bar at the fuel rail to start the injection process.
120bar 😉
And it's the injector itself that won't work until the pressure is reached. The ECU tries firing them as soon as the engine starts to crank.
I did try easy start a few days ago and it wouldn't start...