[Closed] XT BB and Raceface Atlas crank problem - any ideas?

Does sound like a spacer issue. From what I remember of the RF cranks, the thread is the right length, so you tighten them right up against the BB cup. If the Shimano BB is even half a mm shorter than the RF, the bolt won't tighten enough.

As above. The RF crank should come with a bunch of spacers (mine were all on the non-drive-side of the axle when it came out of the box). You need to fit all or some of these. The crank bolt is indeed tightened all the way up.

If the crank bolt is coming loose, then the spline on the drive side crank is probably knackered.
Apart from that, you do need spacers to take up the spare length on the axle.

Doesn't really sound like spacer issue to me if the bolt is coming loose? Obviously you need the right amount of spacers for the shell dimension but I cant see how that would make the bolt come loose, you'd just have play (or not).

Going on my experience with the evolve xc that i have (assuming yours work the same way)

Are you "bottoming out" the bolt? As per the RF instructions? It takes a bit of wellie (not sure the NM equiv' of wellie); I use a long handled allen for this and wrench until the bolt wont shift any more. It might feel like you are in the territory of thread stripping or shearing the bolt but you can feel when it stops.

I s'pose if you had far too many spacers in and couldn't bottom it out it might be a spacer issue.... but i reckon if that was the case you wouldn't be able to freely rotate the crank arms b'cause of all the friction..

Edit: Mine has a cap bolt as well, not sure exactly what the purpose of this is other than when you want to remove the crank arms.

RF cranks and XT bb's will work but its a hideous experience getting them to gel...spacers have nothing to do with it Ime. Tightening the crank bolt is the key, and when I say tighten, I mean gritted teeth and take out your anger!! Not good but it'll bite in the end then no more wobbly crank arms...alternatively do what I did and Marry an xt crank set to your bb and relax....perfect design/fit.

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Like this 🙂

Isn't there then the danger of not being able to remove the cranks when you need to?
and having to employ this removal method..
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Much harder than that...you ain't even trying! 😀

Dez exactly, RF cranks belong with RF bb's...

I've just fitted a Deus crank into an XT BB - no problems, no massive torque required, and it's staying put fine. fit the BB as usual with the correct number of spacers for your bb shell. The crank axle should have two 1mm spacers on the non-drive side, plus a 2.5mm neoprene crush washer for pre-load. As far as i can see, that's the important bit which you may be missing.

http://silverfish-uk.com/products/710-race_face_bike_components_x-type_2.5mm_preload_elastomer.php?r=3m6d0b7s0

I use my RF with Shimano with no issues - I swap them between my HT (shim BB) and XC fullsuss (hope BB) pretty regularly. Once I got my head around the fact the bottoming out the bolt (RF terminology) feels wholly unnatural and like you are going to break some thing it was fine.

That and working out that the cap bolt is also a crank puller (so you dont have to hammer/saw them off).

Shimano is a much better crank design but nowt wrong with race face cranks once you know how to fit/remove them, fine with any X-BB. RF just needed a better manual...

**** me sideways, rrp £8.95 for a washer!!!!!

Thanks for the advice everyone, really helpful!

The guy in the LBS put some serious weight behind the crank bolt, (he was built for it). I was certainly starting to fear he was about to strip the threads.

Does sound like I'm missing a washer from the cranks themselves, that's what you get for buying 2nd hand I guess. At this stage I'm v tempted to go back to shimano cranks!

Cheers

Edit: Only 99p on Winstanley!

http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/35378/RaceFace_XType_Crank_Preload_Elastomer

That's gotta be worth a shot.

Or just buy a raceface bb and be done with it all can't be that much for a bb £££?

If the cranks are missing the washer, a RaceFace BB won't help.

Yea, I did think about getting a RaceFace BB but sounds like the additional 'why not make life more complicated' spacers are still needed.

A raceface bb will never be a sensible answer!

So its the spacer what needed seem daft to run all kinds saying that tho raceface bb are made of cheese!!
Would hope be a better option?

Hi Bigpoe
It sounds to me as if one of two things has happened.

Either . . .
a) The previous owner has damaged the splines and as such they now, no matter what you do, will not stay tight when being used. If this is the case theres not a lot you can do I'm afraid.
b) You're missing the orangey red rubber coated washer that sits in a recess on the inside of the driveside crank arm where it tightens up against the axle.
This is the most important washer of the whole set up. If its not there then the cranks WILL come loose. If this is missing then the spacers are available from any decent bike shops for about a quid.

As for the spacer linked above - apolgies that's a price error on our website. I will have it corrected tomorrow.

Cheers Guys.

Richie - Silverfish UK

Going back to your OP.

Just keep your BB spacers same as you would for any other shimano crank. Make sure that bolt is bottomed out on your RF's. Problem solved. If you feel there is side to side play on the crank axle get the extra axle spacer/elastomer that goes between the crank arm and the BB on the non drive side (I bet you wont need it).

I seem to remember emailing RF about this (circa 2007) when I bought the evolves. They said some thing along the lines of "fit the extra spindle spacer/elastomer if you want extra resistance in the crank, some people want this some people prefer a free spinning crank".

I dont think you will need the spindle spacer unless you are pulling rad no footed airs where you dont want the cranks spinning away while your feet are gone.

EDIT: So long as its not buggered/bit missing like Rich-SF just said.

I have ran that exact set up with no problems. You must read the RF instructions exactly with regard to BB spacers and chainline spacers. For this you need to know your bikes exact chainline. Then account for tripple, dual or single setup as well as the use of a chainguide or not. If you follow this meticulous procedure, it works exactly and very reliably. Also you can torque it as hard as you like it won't get stuck and when you want to take the cranks off just insert the 8mm allen key and gently tap with a soft mallet to get started then it comes off easily.
[url] http://raceface.com/comp/inst/AtlasFR.Crank.pdf ][/url]

If it is the worst case scenario of a shagged spline, then chemical metal is your friend!

[i]That and working out that the cap bolt is also a crank puller (so you dont have to hammer/saw them off)[/i]

Ah yeah, but when you have the version where it [i]isn't[/i] a puller and you think it [i]is[/i]....

I have XT BB and RF Atlas crank. Get accurate measurement of frame. Read the instructions again. Don't forget the extra red washers. XT bb and RF cranks fit together fine, with no play. If you aren't getting this your frame width is outside tolerance OR you're not doing it correctly. Sorry to sound blunt but I speak the troof!

I can definitely narrow the issue down to the cranks as I've run the same BB but with different cranks and not had a problem.

I'm not ready to consider the possibility that someone has sold me some duff cranks just yet so I'll have to see can be done with washers.

Reading the instructions sounds like a good plan too 😀

Thanks again everyone!