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Thanks, but i can't seem to find the hub spacing that this Sram NX fatbike crank is designed for. What i think i need to do is look at the crank CL (i.e. the distance form the center of the BB to the crank) of the crankset you and Northwind have used, and compare it to this one. It has a CL of 66.8mm apparently...
so i think i found the race face affect crank specs, and the 170mm one seems to have about the same CL and q-factor as the Sram NX i linked to! I think it would work. (bottom of page one here:
I think you have the XCF100 (167.25)..?)
Race face Aeffect – Cinch, XCF100 (167.25)
CL: 67-68 or 73.5-74.5 (with Flipped Ring)
Q-factor: 205
Sram NX GX-1000/X1-1000 - Fat bike
CL: 66.5 (Bottom Bracket Type(s): GXP® : BB30™ : PF30™ : PFGXP™)
Q factor: 203
May i ask, without meaning to be rude, if you flipped your ring?
Yes I flipped my ring. Chainline is all good, don't fret about a mm or two. Chain rings are also being produced with offset these days to cater for fatso's
thanks slimjim. Would it have worked without flipping your ring, or was that essential? I suppose at some point I should just do this the old fashioned way and go and have a look! (and measure it with a ruler)
The question is, if I go for the NX crank, which is nice and cheap, but has a non flippable ring and a chainline of 66.5, will that we wide enough? (perhaps is it for 4" tyres, but not for 5"...)
it's true that replacement offset rings are avaliable, but they are about half the price of the whole NX crankset, so I would rather avoid having to change later.
Truth is I spent hours devouringe the chainline info myself and it was nigh on impossible to settle on a definitive answer - in the end I followed advice that 'near as damn it' will work.
IIRC - the flipped ring on my set up put me close to 'optimal' chainline, so I fitted it that way, and it works. I havent gone wider than 4" tyre so cant guarantee it'll clear a 5" on largest sprocket, having said that im pretty sure NW has run 5" on his and we share the same set-up.
You may need to buy an aftermarket ring, you may not. I too wanted the cheapest set up, I even penny pinched a 1x10 set up when I couldv gone 1x11 for just a few £ more, but in the end I splashed the cash on the Aeffects as 1) they look great 2) they fit great 3) the Dune deserves pampering
Much the same here, fatbike chainline and q factor are really pretty confusing, I got it wrong the first time. Even within Raceface's range alone there's loads of variation, you'd think all the 197 rear cranks'd be the same but no.
I think I'd say 2 things. First is that teh stock cranks are actually fine- they're heavy and you can't fit a little chainring easily, but they work. I had to replace mine because I wrecked the taper but that was my fault. So you could stick a 30T on it for now like the NX has. The bearings aren't great but it'll let you get into it without buying cranks immediately.
The other is- aeffect are really good, and great value. They're a wee bit more expensive than the NX but they're much lighter, and they take a Shimano-style BB. Whereas with NX you're stuck with SRAM-compatibles. SRAM BBs are terrible, most quality alterantives are expensive.
So basically I would go direct to Aeffect with the ring of your choice if you can. And if you can't, then stick a cheap ring on the standard cranks and use those til you can. You're going to spend almost as much to get a real entry level unit with some big drawbacks.
(flipped ring on 10-speed shifting and a 4.8 rear, works a charm for me with the 170 Aeffect. The chain clearance to the tyre is a little tighter than is maybe ideal but it's more than good enough, and the chainline is close enough (I reckon biasing the chainline to the left isn't a bad idea on a fatbike, I spend way more time in the low gearst than the high!)
great advice guys, thanks! I'm going to do exactly as Northwind suggests.
apart from the bit where he lambasts coloured chain rings..
Green N/W 30T FTW!
haha. yes, apart from that bit of terrible advice.
so, i'm thinking about this:
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Shimano/SLX-1x11-speed-Upgrade-Kit-2017-Model-p50818/
€159 for an SLX 1x11 11-42 conversion kit with cassette, rear mech, chain, cables and gear-chainging thing. (vs €139 for the equivalent NX kit)
Both fit to a standard shimano freehub apparently.
Then in can pick up a 30 tooth 104 to use with my Lasco for about €15.
good plan?
A set of Aeffect cranks has just landed on my desk, very nice looking they are too. Just waiting for the Absolute Black 28T oval direct mount (black) chainring to arrive and that's that bit of the build sorted.
So has anyone registered for the STW Hebden Bridge event tomorrow (13th Oct), knowing they cannot attend, simply to be in the draw to win the Specialized fatbike? 😆
http://singletrackworld.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/win-a-free-specialized-fatboy-fatbike/
so, assuming I am going to live in/near the Alps and I will have an 11-42 rear cassette, should I go for a 28 or 30 tooth front? (I'm 80kgs and reasonably fit, but beginning to enter the world of being considered middle aged...)
28. I have a 30 and rarely need a higher top gear.
26T to be safe. 😉
There's no point having all that grip if you can't exploit a fatty's climbing abilities.
There's no point having all that grip if you can't exploit a fatty's climbing abilities.
indeed - i plan to do some multi-day trips too, so i imagine carrying a tent etc might require a low gear... (i can keep the 22/36 plate that comes with the bike of course...)
thanks everyone!
Oval is really nice on a fatbike ime- I'm never sure if it's really doing anything worthwhile performance wise but seated in a low gear can feel very blobby, it just feels nicer without that. So I have IIRC a 28T oval but I don't ride up alps with it
I'm now the proud owner of a Calibre Dune.
Not the biggest deal but what colour schemes have people gone for rim strip wise? Colour coded or colour clash?
And once more for the stoopid, if I buy an Aeffect 100/170 crank, exactly which ring do I need to buy if I want to flip it?
Also, I've been following this thread from the start and have yet to read about a broken one, has anybody managed it?
I think colour coded or clash works, I'm going clash just for the heck of it.
And flip it
Colour coded here- yellow PVC tape, it doesn't quite have the pop of the frame but it's not far off.
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Mugboo - MemberAlso, I've been following this thread from the start and have yet to read about a broken one, has anybody managed it?
I've upped the stakes by drilling a hole in the seattube for a Reverb, on mine. Lets see what happens 😆
You've beaten me to it, seriously tempted to drill my frame for my Thomson. Only thing holding me back is that I really like my Spesh remote lever I'm running with my KS (not compatible with Thomson)
Thanks folks, it's a toss up between hi viz silver or red..
couple of dunes in southampton go outdoors on display by the door for less than £500 IIRC from last weekend.
it's a toss up between hi viz silver or red..
Red should be suitably gopping
Has anyone fitted minion fbf and fbr tyres to a dune?
I thought I'd seen something about them earlier in the thread but can't find it now, I'm sure the front will fit fine and I think northwind is running a 4.8 JJ at the rear so it should be ok but I don't really want to spend that much and possibly have trouble returning one if theres no clearance once fitted.
The 4.0 minions will be here in January.
Northwind rates the FBF but not the FBR.
I havent tried them but am keen to give them a go at some point. I think they'd fit ok - if you have trouble returning in sure you could sell privately for near as damn it as they arent the easiest to get hold off IIRC
Cheers 🙂
I may as well give them a try, I'll report back once they're here.
4.8 FBR is a wee bit smaller than the 4.8 JJ, fits really well with my x1. I like it tbh, it's faster and not as grippy as I was expecting but still good- it just seems to lack a little toothiness compared to the FBF.
I'd like to try the FBF on the rear too but I'm not paying for another one 😆 Waiting to see how it copes with proper winter.
I'm seriously thinking about one for the front as i have a Lou coming for the rear.
I did ask the question previously
Northwind-
FBF is great in mud but oddly, not as good up front as a Floater in snow, in my limited experience.
I had one ride on a new FBF up the Sidlaws this past April and was surprised at its lack of stability straight ahead in the new, fairly wet snow. I'd expected those big teeth to work as well as they do in peaty mud. If we do get a proper winter, I'll probably swap back to the Floater for a few months, which I've always found copes ok in the same situation.
I've probably asked before but how are they in the slideways department? I.e do they wash out entering mud patches at speed?
Got the Dune, very impressed with it(apart from the short seatpost), but what does everyone take for a pump with them out on the trails? After adding some stans to the tubes I used a car foot pump in the garage as the track pump was taking ages..... Am I going to have to start wearing a Camelbak again to fit my foot pump in ?
A 45g CO2 cartridge.
A 45g CO2 cartridge
Looking at the price of them, I'll probably just carry a few 16g ones 8)
Is there enough gas in a 16g cartridge to pop the beads?
I just carry a topeak frame pump and spare tube, takes a long long time to get to 8psi though 😆
Cheers for that highlandman, I didn't get to ride it much in snow last year so looking forward to it 8) Love snow...
Anyone had any experience of running a wider tyre up front?? Good? Bad?
How wide? I run 4.8s (JJ or Minion), so far they're better for everything I do, but there might be other stuff they're worse at.
Vee rubber 4" tyres are now £11.69 on CRC.
http:[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/vee-rubber-vee8-fat-bike-tyre/rp-prod149538 ]//www.chainreactioncycles.com/vee-rubber-vee8-fat-bike-tyre/rp-prod149538[/url]
Mainly crap reviews on those unfortunately. I avoided them a while back as a result
I found a use for the seatpost, it worked beautifully over my ratchet to undo the bb to remove the front mech 8)
Got the rear hub apart, not much grease in them bearings
First go on my Dune today, it's been upgraded with SLX brakes, reverb, bar/stem and 1x10 & Floaters.
It rides like a bike but with rigid forks. It needs a 30t chainring at the very least and tubeless once my 3M stuff arrived. Overall I liked it, hopefully I'll love it once it's fully sorted.