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lol ive got access to tar and glue remover so wont be a problem as that stuff has cleared gorilla tape residue before no problems, but then needs a good dousing in rubbing alcohol and left for a day or 2 to dry fully
i might try the new reserve tape or just get some dt swiss im sure either of those will work well
made me think “don’t go tubeless”.
Yeah, but I've not had a puncture in I've no idea how long; 5-6 years at least. Last one was on Holiday in Switzerland so that would been 2017 maybe, certainly pre-covid
I tried the yellow Tesa tape once, as recommended on here and found it to be utterly useless, it wasn't remotely sticky.
So I went back to what I'd used previously... Gorilla tape - I've never had an issue with sealing, and I've never had to remove it to have to clean up the residue off the rim bed.
I find Specialized tyres can bleed air/sealant through the sidewalls on lighter casings, particularly if they've had a scrape, but I really don't understand all the issues. All that said, best tubeless setup I ever had was on Mavic rims with Stans rimstrips and sealant, no hassle, just worked.
Breaking news... The tubed tyres/wheels that i used 3 weeks ago, that were at about 4.5/5 bar were at ~2 this morning...
And they do not have a puncture, slow or otherwise. Just ultralight innertubes.
I reckon just the process of pressing the tyre gauge in place drops the psi by between 3/4 and 1psi.
My road tyres lost 3psi in 36hrs which included a 4 hr ride but assuming the gauge contributes to some of that and I used it twice (once at the beginning and again at the end of that 36hr period) it might be more like 1.5 - 2 psi loss.
The other issue is, with tubeless, I always tap the valve to expel any sealant in it before using the gauge, so that also contributes to any losses. It’s surprising how little air needs to escape for each psi loss..
My tubeless tyres always lose air so need pumping before every ride but then so did my tubed tyres. The tubeless ones lose more air but they would need pumping up regardless. I've only had two tubeless punctures in about 10 years so I'll take the issues that come with tubeless.
put some new tubeless tyres on the wife's tourer on tuesday.
schwalbe one allround, onto halo vapour rims.
used cheap valve and 21mm tape kit from merlin.
1 wrap of tape and tyres inflated with joe blow pump, no sealant needed
deflated em and put in 1 big syringe joes in each tyre, reinflated. perfect.
non at all mate, the tyres roll too quick now, i cant keep up with her
gonna sneak the schwalbe marathon pluses back on................ ;o)
What psi have you got them at? Oh, and how did you pierce the tape for the valve?
Rims can leak air at the joint, focus on applying tape up the sides at the joint. Another common issue is the valves, they can leak if not done up tight enough or if you cut a slit instead of piercing a hole when installing. Also the valves can leak if they get clogged up with sealant, use a valve removal tool to clear any dried sealant off.
New tyres can also leak air through their sidewalls until the sealant gets to work.
Lastly, try adding an extra couple of layers of tape to the centre of the rim, you can use insulation tape as it's cheap and readily available. You're only doing it to make a tighter seal, the tubeless tape that you already fitred will stop the air leaking through the rim itself.
As always though with tubeless, it works flawlessnesly right uptil it doesn't, then you end up being covered in sealant and turning the air blue. I'm a huge tubeless fan but am not a fan of latex stains on my expensive cycle kit.
oceanskipper
Full Member
What psi have you got them at? Oh, and how did you pierce the tape for the valve?
60 psi to seat tyres, dropped to 45 to ride because the wife aint heavy. tyres are 650b x 1.5
used a small screwdriver to pierce tape.
Fyi, Bontrager tubeless rim strips say they are only to be used with Bontrager rims.
I found out the hard way that this is correct -- I had one on a DT Swiss rim, which looked to be fitting perfectly, but it cracked yesterday when I deflated my tyre to make sure the bead would stay seated (before the wheel had even been ridden)
Changed it for a Specialized rim strip (31mm width on a 25mm rim) and it works perfectly
So my first foray into tubeless went so:
Damaged the rear valve on my Scott Scale (my stupidity) and had slow leak which took the shine off a recent outing. . Muc Off valve kit and Giant control tank ordered..
Rear Continental Race King removed, how much latex attached! No wet latex evident - these tyres have seeped through the sidewalls since I've had the bike...
2 hours of various scraping, scratching and washing methods later, clean(ish) tyre achieved.. Clean rim (Syncros XR-RC 20mm internal width. Inspect tape (original 2017 fitment by the look of it as branded Syncros - it is 23mm wide..) all looks good.
Dry everything, fit valve, marvel at the anodised bling, re-fit tyre (check its on the right way and valves and logos are close enough...) pressurise the tank... 120psi is about the limit of my cheap track pump.
Attach tank to valve (with core removed), initial blast fires the connection off, try again, really pushing it on and to my amazement a short hiss is followed by the satisfying pops of the bead seating.
Remove tank and replace valve core and inflate to 50psi - I can hear hissing from a spoke nipple opposite side of the wheel to the valve.. I'm assuming that the tape has failed and am perhaps incorrectly also assuming sealant won't fix it, so to avoid a load of mess, I decide to remove the tape and will start again with fresh tape now I know the tyre is simple to pop on.
So to get the question - what rim tape for my 27.5" 20mm wide rim? Specialized Rim strip doesn't appear to be available in this size.
Anyone any experience of the Prime Tape on Wiggle as this appears to be the correct width for the rim?
TIA