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57cm in Sussex nr Lewes.
Drop me a mail if you like.
Or come to the Brighton Big Dog this weekend!
I think the frames are sold out by pre-order, so they don't have demos.
Could be wrong. [url= http://www.freeborn.co.uk/kinesis-tripster-atr-2014 ]Freeborn[/url] say they have them in stock, so might be worth a call. (But the website did say that when I went down there and they had none).
If it is any help I ordered a 57cm from Freeborn yesterday after a quick call to check stock - and it has just arrived !! 🙂
Lee
I'm about to get me a Tripster frame too and it's my first Ti frame. After researching if the frame should be prepared or not I'm a bit confused – is it necessary to prepare a titanium frame as Kinesis [url= http://www.kinesisbikes.co.uk/files/techdocs/FRAME-INSTRUCTIONS-WEB.pdf ]suggests[/url] – ie do facing/chasing/reaming as with alu or steel frame?
I know it's usually done because frames are painted and machining might be a bit unaacurate, but with titanium it's neither. But as the parts are first machined and then welded, there's a small possibility for deformation because of welding.
I've asked a few retailers if they'll do the preparations for me and only one said that they always do full facing for the frames, others told that there's no need for that.
So what do you think? Have you had the preparations done or has anyone had problems with unprepared frames?
No prep on my Tripster. Everything's groovy.
Yeah top of page 2 on the Kinesis document. I think they're just covering their arses.
notmyrealname,might be a bit far for you but Finely Tuned Ride in Wiltshire has 57cm ATR demo bike.
Thanks for the advice and offers of demo bikes. I might try a couple of the shops to see what they've got available.
From looking it appears that some places seem to list a 55.5cm frame but others don't. Is the 55.5cm still a current model?
Out of interest, I'm 5'11" and my previous Trek Domane road bike was a 56cm and from looking at the geometry on the Kinesis website it would appear that I'm bang in the middle of the sizing range for the 57cm.
Does this sound correct to other Tripster owners of a similar size?
Dude the 55.5 is the newest size. It was released exactly because the gap between 54 and 57 made average height guys have to compromise. I ride a 57 road bike and my 55.5 fits perfectly. I'm 5'10
notmyrealname, based on personal experience, I would not rely on what size the Kinesis sizing chart recommends based just on your height alone, especially the height range for the 57cm despite you being in the middle of the range. If you read back through this thread you'll see what others have said about choosing between the 54cm and the 57cm, before the 55.5cm was introduced.
I would strongly recommend that you try to get the chance to sit on a 55.5cm (and possibly even a 54cm depending upon how much of a drop you want from saddle to bars).
If you can get to Winchester you're welcome to try my 55.5 for size
Just had a good look at the geometry compared to my previous road bike and my current CX bike. The 55.5 looks like it should be very similar from a sizing point of view to the road bike so I think it should be about spot on.
I've just spoke to Freeborn who have a 54 and a 57 on the shop floor so I'll head down there this week any have a try if both and at least I'll be able to figure out if the 57 is too big which is what I think may be the case.
Hopefully if the sizing is good then it'll soon be new frame time 😀
Edit: curto80, thanks for the offer of a try on yours!
I am 5'10/11 ish and on a 54, 57 i would imagine being far to big for me.
Merlin have the frames on sale at the mo. Not as cheap as I paid for my Tripster, but £100or so knocked off the rrp.
I am 5'10/11 ish and on a 54, 57 i would imagine being far to big for me.
Also 5ft 10 on a 54.
Stem is 110mm though, and I think a 70mm stem is what it was designed to have.
The standover on my 54 is good as it is used offroad nearly all the time, but on the road I think I would want a shorter stem to offset the slackness of the steering, especially with tyres narrower than my 40cs.
35cc or 38cc Schwalbe G-one?
which to fit?
Hopefully the photo will work.
If it does it's my almost built up Tripster!
Looks rather good in the metal, really impressed with it. Had a bit of a problem with the headset but a quick call to Freeborn and they explained it to me.
Just need to cut the steerer down now and that's about it.
One quick question though, I'm using a 30.9mm Syntace carbon seatpost with a USE plastic shim. Should I still use carbon assembly paste on the post?
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http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/pp49/rustybiker/20160819_111748.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
I'm selling my 51cm Tripster ATR if anyone is on the lookout for a small one 🙂
See classifieds.
Sadly under used as I'm a runner and not that good off road on a bike, so will be changing for a road bike.
Cheers
[i] will be changing for a road bike.
[/i]
Better than any road bike I've owned 😛
Nice build notmyrealname. Lovely looking frames arent they. Can't believe mine's a year old! Only reason I noticed was the bb needed replacing. Anyway, not a fan of skinwalls meself, but looks great apart from that 😀
35cc or 38cc Schwalbe G-one?
which to fit?
May as well fit the biggest IMO.. I've got the 38c I run as a rear tyre when I want something faster rolling and keep a nano race on the front..
Agree with dezb.. Tripster is a very capable road bike.. Maybe not as quick as something aero / carbon but what you lose in speed you gain in comfort...
I set my Tripster up for the forthcoming wet weather with Ultegra Di2, 30mm S-Ones and mudguards. Then the heatwave hit 😆
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I've used the XTR Di2 battery holder which is fairly neat and avoided the need to drill out any parts of the frame (the lower junction is incorporated into the battery holder). Clearance for mudguards is much better than before because the FD no longer interferes.
I still need to re-run and tidy up a bit of the cabling and tweak the length of the rear mudguard stays.
Any ideas on how to shorten the front hydraulic break hose? This might be a job for a good LBS.
Tripster is a very capable road bike..
Certainly is. Took the old girl with me to Shropshire and The Peak for the last 2 weeks camping. Was very glad of the discs when descending all the 20% hills. Maybe I lost a bit on some of the climbs as (with my builds) it gives up 2Kg to my race bike, but I got 3rd overall on Strava on 2 of the 100 Climbs (The Burway* and Asterton Bank).
*Sadly got bumped to 4th just after I moved camp to the Peak. Bah! 🙁
Any ideas on how to shorten the front hydraulic break hose?
Grab a new olive and barb (SMBH59). Put the fork over a bucket (or something to catch any oil drips). Remove the hose from the caliper. Cut the hose. Slide on the bolt, then the new olive. Put the new barb in the end of the hose (hold the hose using the little yellow cable clamps stuck in a vice). Then put the hose into the caliper and tighten down with the bolt. Bleed.
So does anyone think these will squeeze into the Tripster? I am running Nano 40c now...
http://theradavist.com/2016/09/wtb-introduces-the-45mm-riddler-tire/
It will fit easily in the fork. It should fit in the back - based on my previous measurements, and given the fact that the profile is quite rounded.
Thanks matts!
One quick question though, I'm using a 30.9mm Syntace carbon seatpost with a USE plastic shim. Should I still use carbon assembly paste on the post?
Didn't notice this Q before. Personally, I would use paste on the shim. It definitely helps keep the post positioned with minimal clamping force.
Didn't notice this Q before. Personally, I would use paste on the shim. It definitely helps keep the post positioned with minimal clamping force.
I ended up going with carbon paste on both shim and post but even after replacing the Kinesis clamp with a Hope one there was movement in the post so I did away with it.
I looked in the spares box and noticed that I had a 31.6-27.2 shim which I tried with my ugly Specialized CG-R post and it worked a treat 😀
Now I'm in the market for some mudguards for the Tripster. Has anyone fitted a set of the Swarf carbon guards with any success?
I quite fancy a set of the 40mm ones.
Yeah. I'm using a 27.2 post with a 31.8 shim and a Thomson clamp. I tried a 31.6 shim as well, but the .8 gave a more secure fit.
EDIT: I use 42mm Blumel guards on mine with a long front flap. Don't think I could justify an extra £100 for something that takes a beating through the winter commute. YMMV. 🙂
Hi
I've been watching this thread for a while and considering (strongly) building an ATR bike, can you help me specify what might do the job? There seems to be a great community so wondering if you can help me out.
Budget: £3k or less (had a bit of a work surprise but happy with second hand parts if no reason to buy new etc)
Use:
20 mile RT commute on bad roads
Summer tow path with baby seat on rear pannier
Winter riding on tracks round local (big) park tracks
Winter training rides round box hill etc
Thinking of 40mm tyre, front and rear guards and rear rack.
So what parts would you suggest - groupset, gearing, hydraulic brakes, headset, wheels & tyres to fit the budget?
(Also i like loud colours so anything to bring a bit of fun wouldn't go amiss.)
Rider: 95kg
Thanks!
If you like bright colours, then Hope or Chris King would be a good place to start.
IMHO, you should go for a few matching adornments. I think it looks awful when there are a load of, for instance, pink bits on a bike, but they're all a subtly different tone.
If you went for Hope, you get get matching hub and rotors, along with seat clamp, BB, and jockey wheels.
With regard to tyres, some of your intended uses place very different stresses on the tyres.
Rubber that will stand up to riding on loose surfaces with a child seat on the back is going to be pretty wooden for daily riding.
Something that could do it all may be the Marathon Almotion tubeless. They're supposed to have a very low rolling resistance, and they have a reasonable tread pattern for some light off-road use. But you may find that a soft rubber block tread like that wears in the centre quite quickly on mainly tarmac and under a heavier rider.
I would probably run something like Marathon Supreme 35 for general road use and then have some Marathon Originals or Dureme for tracks / loaded use.
Worth checking if the Ultegra groupsets are still on sale at Merlin for c.£650. Then you could splash out on two sets of Hunt wheels - one with cheaper tyres for abuse, and one with S-Ones for winter training.
I've only reached page 57 of this forum - it makes lovely reading with understanding and support all round - a real sense of community - and I'm ready to make my first forum post with the arrival yesterday of my size 51 frame. I'm about 168cm tall with an unfeasibly long back. I'm having a delightful fret over components so I hope it's OK to present my proposed build. I'd be happy to hear any views.
I'm looking to run a double with low gears for off road use - maybe the odd cross race and some longer day rides or offish road tours.
I'm thinking of going 10 speed Shimano shifter wise so I can slot in 9 speed MTB mech if I need to.
30x 46 up front from the likes of Sugino OX901D or TA Carmina as the only solutions I can find other than converting a triple.
11-34 out back with a road mech or possibly an 11-36 or Praxis 11-40 with 9 speed XT and possibly a Praxis 32x48 chainset.
Has anyone had chainline difficulties because of the 135 rear end (somewhere I've seen mention of spacing out bottom brackets with sturmy spacers) or issues with the crank too close to the chainstay? (I'm a bit duck footed and have large feet for my height)
Front mech wise I'm hoping a CX mech will be the right shape and clear the frame.
Wheels wise I'll maybe build some Stans Grails on Hope hubs eventually and buy a set of the Kinesis wheels to get me rolling in the meantime although I'm not keen on alloy nipples.
I'd like nice fat tyres with a grippy compound and chunky enough tread for all off road eventualities and comfort to run tubeless as I'm used to MTB tyres and encounter slippy clay / chalk combinations here in the south east but could try the WTB Nanos as they seem highly rated.
Thanks everyone!
beingktb - you can get a 46.36 crank in Ultegra, that would give you a low range double?
Kinesys wheels seem very good value for the money, low weight and come with hub adaptors for "all the standards".
Anyone heard anymore on the V2 version of the frame Kinesis put in their catalogue at the start of the summer? Waiting for Bike Show at the end of the month I guess to announce?
I'm thinking of going 10 speed Shimano shifter wise so I can slot in 9 speed MTB mech if I need to.30x 46 up front from the likes of Sugino OX901D or TA Carmina as the only solutions I can find other than converting a triple.
It's a shame Middleburn just went under. They did a small BCD crank that was just what you're looking for.
If you can wait a bit, then Rotor just announced a 30/46 one-piece ring that bolts directly to their crank.
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I'm de-CX-ing my Tripster: making it a purer training/commuting/touring machine.
I was finding the 1x11 (42 up front, 11-32 out back) a bit limited on the road - spinning out on long fast descents particularly - and thought it would be nice to have a lower gear or two when heavily laden... soooo:
The CX1 groupset is coming off and an Ultegra Hydro 2x11 is going on. Went for 36-52 up front and will continue with 11-32 out back.
It's a good excuse to get another (CX) bike 🙂
I currently run Nano 40c on Pacenti rims. I was wondering if the 2.1" would possibly fit, could anyone provide guidance? http://www.wtb.com/products/nano
The CX1 groupset is coming off and an Ultegra Hydro 2x11 is going on. Went for 36-52 up front and will continue with 11-32 out back.
I run 11sp 50/36 + 11-32 on mine as a commuting/training setup. I think this provides a decent spread of gears.
I was wondering if the 2.1" would possibly fit, could anyone provide guidance?
I would say that In the fork, yes. In the chainstays, no. Even though the 2.1s supposedly are only about 2.0.
you can get a 46.36 crank in Ultegra
you can change the inner ring to a 34 quite cheaply - the outer ring is a lot more.
You should also look at those Lindarets adapters rather than a mtb mech :
http://shop.18bikes.co.uk/m9b0s599p2460/LINDARETS-Roadlink-2015
I run an XTR mech for a 36 cassette but I think you could get away with a road mech with a smaller cage with a lindarets.
Definitely no 2.1 inches in the rear! 😆
Tried a Schwable and it got nowhere near fitting.
This is the best forum thread ever! Thanks everyone for tips and suggestions. It's a big help.
Whitecitadel - I've got a standard 36/46 set up on my cross bike at the moment and I'm definitely keen to widen things up front a bit on the Tripster.
Yes, the Kinesis wheels are good value but I'm not keen on alloy nipples... although I could just try upping my maintenance regime a bit 🙂
Matts - yes, it was the Middleburn one that would have done the trick but that rotor ringset looks superb.
Turnerguy - I've been looking at Lindarets and Wolf and Goat and whatnot (as an aside from cursing Shimano's lack of road / MTB compatibility) and I can see me using them for events when I need extra low gears but I'm trying to start with getting as wide a range as possible first.
These are due in the country in a couple of weeks (assuming everything isn't stuck in a bankrupt container ship out at sea)so if the narrow chainline isn't a problem with 135 rear spacing I may take them as my starting point. I'd get a 32-48 and I like the look of them 🙂
https://www.praxiscycles.com/product/zayante-m30-build/
A Shimano GS rear mech will take a 36 sprocket.
I'm de-CX-ing my Tripster: making it a purer training/commuting/touring machine.I was finding the 1x11 (42 up front, 11-32 out back) a bit limited on the road - spinning out on long fast descents particularly - and thought it would be nice to have a lower gear or two when heavily laden... soooo:
The CX1 groupset is coming off and an Ultegra Hydro 2x11 is going on. Went for 36-52 up front and will continue with 11-32 out back.
I've been thinking of doing similar to use it as more of a training bike through the winter.
I'm toying with the idea of fitting it with Ultegra Di2 that way, from what I understand, it would be pretty much a case of plugging in the front mech and attaching it so it's ready to go then unplug and remove the mech when I want to go back to 1x11.
It's a kind of expensive way of doing it though compared to a new gear cable each time 😆
Thanks Matts, that's an interesting video. More potential that you'd think!
Whitecitadel - I've got a standard 36/46 set up on my cross bike at the moment and I'm definitely keen to widen things up front a bit on the Tripster.Yes, the Kinesis wheels are good value but I'm not keen on alloy nipples... although I could just try upping my maintenance regime a bit
Matts - yes, it was the Middleburn one that would have done the trick but that rotor ringset looks superb.
I am planning 46/36 with the small ring swapped to make 46/34 as turnerguy also commented. I went wide when I built my MTB with 38/24 and 11-36 but later put an 11-32 on and now to be honest should have gone 11-28, depends how big a hill you plan to hit I suppose!
Run alloy nipples on my MTB, just had to re-tension and slightly true the rear wheel after a flat last week and had no problems. I did build wheel myself with dt Swiss rims, spokes and nipples, you can destroy the nipples if you over-tension (don't ask how I know) I can't see why not to use them if correctly assembled.
That rotor ring though does look the business... (Goes to investigate...)