Today I should be changing the rear tyre on my gravel bike but motivation is not making an appearance for some reason.
Likewise, I should be cleaning my bike and reseating the rear tyre as it keeps leaking sealant from the rim... but I'm also lacking the motivation to do it.
Maybe we should we should created a "what can't you be arsed doing to your bike today?" thread😀
Got the Tripster back on the road with some Pro carbon bars - wasn't as simple as it should've been - internal routing for the brake hoses! I mean, you don't have to but it's there, so... trying to fish the lever end of the hose out of a right-angled hole wasn't the easiest on first go. In the end a right angle tipped pick in the hole got a grip and pulled it through. Second side should've been easier cos I had a method, yeah!? So I get it through and of course, have left the nut for fixing the hose back to the brake the wrong side of the hole. Genius. Pull it out and start again. Then a bleed, which went fine and ready for Tuesday's commute. Bars are a fab shape, with a flat section behind the hoods, really comfortable (great recommendation by my ol mate ChatGPT). 👍
stripped my Chisel FS for sale. Raaw MAdonna will be next.
I want to go back to one 'do it all bike'... aka a trail bike of some description.
New wheels! My old Jet6/9 is no longer legal, os some jet6 blacks have arrived. Looks much nicer. Had to rotate cassettes and will test ride tomorrow.
Is that a tcr @tired? Mine is creaking and it's proving difficult to track down the source - tried most things. I have a magene power meter which has a bit of a questionable crankset design and was certain it would be that, but doesn't seem to be. Seat clamp seems to be a popular source but have cleaned, greased and pasted to no avail.
Blooming irritating. Rode my carbon cross bike over Cut Gate at the weekend - rough AF on a rigid bike, total silence. Ride the tcr down the road and it's creaking like a shithouse door.
Defy Advanced SL. The bike John Degenkolb won the 2015 Paris Roubaix. Same size too! Thinking of a respray to bring it up to date graphically.
press fit BB can be a source of creaking. As can saddle rail clamps. Try greasing the saddle clamp.
Quite chuffed with this. When my Tripster got mangled (a teeny bit), had to get new fork. 12mm instead of 9/QR which meant the lovely Ksyrium front wheel would’ve had to be binned,as not convertible to 12mm.. or is it..? I also had a set of Ksyrium Allroads from the same time (now dead) and had an inkling the front of those was convertible … found it in the eves of the garage, took it apart, same process as the Ksyrium, axle the same, except 12mm instead of 15… fitted perfectly into the road hub. Spins! So nice wheel not wasted and no need to spend more dosh to have 2 sets of wheels. Sweet!
Fitted a new set of front pads to my Hopes after a rather embarrassing "hmm, my front pads appear to have fallen out" on Wednesday evening at coaching.
Guess who forgot to tighten the pin and put the wire clip back on after checking/cleaning them over the weekend......
Today I mostly got my bike a bit dusty. It was fun. Now it's raining.
Sorted a sticking rear brake out on my son's road bike.
Nearly got a 50mm bolt permanently stuck in the bottle boss while trying to reset the rivnut for his bottle cage using the old nut and washer trick.
Rivnut kit arrives tomorrow. Praying I don't **** the downtube in the process.
Spent hours fighting to put a generic invisiframe kit on my new Orbea E gravel bike. What a pain in the RS. On the plus side getting the tubeless setup done was dead easy 😀
A couple of days ago, replaced cable, outers and RH shifter (very elderly XT 8 speed) with an El Cheapo shifter. Its proved, more or less conclusively, that the intermittent problem between 8th to 7th (and sometimes 7th to 6th) must be down to something bust in the old shifter mechanism. Which means I can tap my brother up for the newer one he rather handily has in his spares bin, and swap over when the cheapo one gives up the ghost.
Might just take the old one apart to see if I can see the problem in daylight tomorrow, out of curiosity.
Rounded a chainring bolt which didn’t even need to be checked for tightness. Contemplating wacking a torx bit into the now round hole, I have a feeling this is going to end badly and I should just go to the LBS…
I've finally got my Tarmac SL8 finished.
Bought it as a complete bike on C2W in November last year. I knew it'd need new bars, the ones it came with were very wide and surprisingly basic alloy ones, the tyres were too narrow, the steerer too long.
Tyres I changed immediately. I played around with the position a bit, did various rides with differing amount of spacers then finally got the steerer trimmed, new one-piece carbon bars fitted, bars wrapped and the proper out-front computer mount installed. I also added blip shifters.
Now at last everything is just right with it, it looks so good.
Replaced a broken spoke in the rear wheel. Which went surprisingly well ( < 1hr). It's a job I always hate, seems (in theory) like it should take 5 mins but by the time you remove cassette, maybe brake disk, tyre, rim tape, nipple floating around in the rim, replace spoke, tension up, true wheel, retape, pray to gods and hope tyre seals, takes about 1hr if lucky and don't have to retape. Thankfully the wheel involved is running full DH tyres and no cushcore insert. They're a whole extra level of pain in the proverbial hoop.
Fitted a new set of front pads to my Hopes after a rather embarrassing "hmm, my front pads appear to have fallen out" on Wednesday evening at coaching.
Guess who forgot to tighten the pin and put the wire clip back on after checking/cleaning them over the weekend......
And this is why despite protestations from Mrs Reeksy - I never let her work on my bikes 😉
nipple floating around in the rim
This bit alone can take more than an hour... before I give up and accept the nipple noise will be there for ever more.
Just installed some 155mm Pinnd cranks on the Rise, replacing the stock 165mm Shimano cranks.
I also got a chain wear indicator yesterday and was surprised to see no visible wear on either the Rise or gravel bike. I'm clearly not the masher I thought I was.
I was going to fit some TBS Ceramic pads to install too but by the time I'd found where I put them it was time to go back to work.
Just sorted my gravel bike out for the next bike packing trip, week today. An Turas Moor.. cant darn wait. It is cleaning and ready to roll.
Serviced my ME700 pedals this morning as per this Park video.
First time I've done it. The pedals have almost 7000km on them but were clean inside if a little dry. Bearings didn't need adjusting. Quality item.
About 7 posts up I posted about 'rounding a chainring bolt'. I took the sensible option and took the crankset to the LBS, they called me a couple of hours later to say it was ready. When I arrived they were all laughing - I had tried to undo a Torx bolt with a hex key so it was obviously spinning - I didn't have my glasses on at the time! Happy ending and I brought a smile the LBS!
Shock air can and fork lowers on MrsPs bike, redid internal brake routing with bonus headset routed cables on mine, then bled the brakes
gone up from 2 tokens to 4 on fox 36 and dropped the PSI.
About 7 posts up I posted about 'rounding a chainring bolt'. I took the sensible option and took the crankset to the LBS, they called me a couple of hours later to say it was ready. When I arrived they were all laughing - I had tried to undo a Torx bolt with a hex key so it was obviously spinning - I didn't have my glasses on at the time! Happy ending and I brought a smile the LBS!
I know someone *cough* who made multiple attempts to unscrew a small bolt without his glasses the other day only to discover once glasses were on that he head of the bolt was on the other side of the clamp
Just collected my e-bike after its first full motor service. It's been an expensive day!
It was the scheduled service interval on the Bosch so it's all been updated, fed through to the app and I've got a whole extra 10Nm of torque.
Decided to try an air can service… first time I’ve done it.
Workbench in a shocking* mess so I shoved all the mess down the other side and tore the thing apart. Amazingly it went pretty smoothly. One moment where I put the plastic seals on without checking which way they went and turned out I’d actually got them in the right order.
It was a good opportunity to check the pivot bearings too. They were all good.
*see what I did there?
Shiny works components 30t chainring on my Beady. Test ride later!
Being unable to ride due to lingering 'cat aids' and snottyitus, I gave the new to me Mavic Cosmics a service - these are the 'road wheels' for the CX bike. The wheels were sold as a seized rear hub. Bought them for a very good price, and these wheels looked to have been stored since new (about 10 years old). There is no wear on the braking surface and the original 'milling' is intact. The Mavic freehub was 'sticky' with old grease and oil so took a while to clean up. When stripping it down, I realised why the freehub was 'seized' as the previous owner had tried to fix it (the cones were loose) as there was a spacer fitted on the wrong side of the freehub bearing. All sorted and ready to roll. Even the bearings had 'clear' grease in.
Pumped up some tyres. Noticed a load of corrosion on the front wheel spokes and started mulling over what sort of new wheels it would look good with. 😂
Then I went out for a ride on it, which was nice. 🙂
Fitted chain damper.
Probably depends heavily on the frame design but I love the chain damper on my Airdrop. It's like a mute button on an already quiet bike.
Fitted chain damper.
Probably depends heavily on the frame design but I love the chain damper on my Airdrop. It's like a mute button on an already quiet bike.
Yes that and todays ride was much kinder on the knees
I still firmly believe that internal routing for hydraulics is one of the dumbest things to ever happen to MTB frames but I'm stuck with it for now.
Anyway, I have exorcised our household of the final set of SRAM brakes. I have these Hopes to start bedding in. Hopefully tomorrow morning.
Sanded and cleaned rotors, installed some ceramic pads, did a few blasts up and down my lane to bed them in.
The 155mm Pinnd cranks I put on yesterday felt good. Will properly test them tomorrow.
Change the x2 on my Mega to my coil shock for a Lakes day tomorrow. And greased the bearings and VPP in case its wer. All while contemplating the Ripmo and HD6 as possible new build.
Sorted the dropper insert height and popped a new saddle on.
That's enough faff and fettling for now. Need to get a ride in.
Moved it fractionally to lean against unit more and make it more stable!
Really should have taken it out to christen the new 45mm Caracal Race and latex tube today, but I've felt rotten since unusually doing the zone 1 Tiny Races at disappointing power compared to Tuesday and Wednesday. Body was probably in shock by me being up before 0900.😵💫
Spent an inordinate amount of time yesterday, replacing my cassette and chain - XTR, so my wallet wept. Couldn’t get it to shift reliably or accurately.So…
I started again from scratch;
- Resetting my high and low limits and checking multiple times.
- Adjusting my b-tension repeatedly.
After 2 hours, still no joy, I then:
- Replaced my outer and inner gear cable which needed me to take the motor off my Orbea Rise. After some fiddling, I got the outer threaded through the downtube. Couldn’t thread it through the seat stay until I removed the chainstay protector which uses one bolt at the rear of the chainstay. Another 2 hours spent.
- Replaced my replaceable gear hanger.
- Went back to starting again resetting my limits and b-tension. A further hour.
All to no avail. Rear derailleur unmarked, no pivot slop and cage looked entirely straight.
Tided up and went to bed, thinking I would try another 12 speed mech and shifter I had in the morning.
Spent another 2 hours this morning removing my XX1 Eagle derailleur from my Transition Patrol - which I can now only ride on uplift days. Removed my derailleur from the Rise and swapped them around. Obviously needed to adjust the limits and b-tension.
Refitted the cable and adjusted. It turns out it was the rear derailleur all along. Now everything worked.
Now I am looking for another rear derailleur. So I am in the market for a new XTR derailleur. Another expense!
Spent some more time today looking for one. As my wallet is still weeping - does anyone know where I can source one for a more reasonable price?
Even looked at used ones on eBay, but they appeared like they already had a hard life or the price of postage was between £30 and £40.
You may already know, but in case you don't - Shimano mechs have a mark on the back of the cage to line up with a 51t cassette for the task of setting the B tension
And you don’t mention the clutch. I’ve spent some of today cleaning and degreasing my son’s XT clutch (again!!!) so get it shifting smoothly. Hateful things.
Had XTR on my Slayer, downgraded that to XT come replacement time. Far too expensive on a winch & plummet bike. 🤣
This is probably for the other thread, but I have a audible click with haptic feedback through my cranks when I pedal under load in the eeb. Powered in or not.
I need to do some fault finding but I don't know if I can be arsed.
Thanks, TheArstistFormallyKnownAsSTR. I didn’t know until the last time I fitted one.
Writing such a long post must have been my therapy - so thanks got getting to the end of it along with relapsed_mandalorian and reeksy.
Got home from a great day at FOD last Wednesday and one of the wires to the Shimano Steps display had snagged in my mates van and pulled out luckily not broken .
Turns out there are 3 other ports on the controller cue the old don't cut the wrong wire scenario in reverse 😯After some digging around online I found a photo that showed where the 2 wires go . So what are the other 2 ports for and does it matter which goes where I'm sure it does?
