Forum menu
Slightly strange &#...
 

[Closed] Slightly strange 'clunk'

Posts: 11589
Full Member
Topic starter
 
[#7120567]

Can the Sram Type-2 mech make a clunk if the chain length suddenly changes?

Got a Whyte T130 and every couple of minutes I seem to get a 'clunk', I can't feel it through the pedals but I hear it. I've checked all my bolts and they all appear tight, nothing feels loose and I can't seem to replicate it when the bike isn't moving.

It is much more obvious when the terrain is 'bumpy' which is making me think it is suspension related but as everything is tight (bolt-wise), I'm now thinking it is chain length related and the clunk is just the mech moving (somehow).

Any suggestions on what I should be looking at next? Headset is fine, saddle is fine, wheels aren't loose, etc.


 
Posted : 09/06/2015 8:47 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Can the Sram Type-2 mech make a clunk if the chain length suddenly changes?

Doubt it. Bent cog on cassette? Damaged link on chain?


 
Posted : 09/06/2015 8:59 pm
Posts: 11589
Full Member
Topic starter
 

Doesn't appear to be anything bent...cassette appears to be all in order as well...I'll keep looking and checking things...wonder if it could be a clunk from my shock and I'm just not thinking it would clunk!


 
Posted : 09/06/2015 9:17 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

google it possible clutch inside mech needs re greased, just a quick search found [url= http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/sram-type-2-derailleur-issues-811526-3.html ]THIS[/url]

anyway worth a try


 
Posted : 09/06/2015 9:36 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

When I had a random clunk issue once it turned out to be a bearing popping in and out of it's housing.....it took me ages to work it out.


 
Posted : 09/06/2015 9:47 pm
Posts: 11589
Full Member
Topic starter
 

Interesting read, thanks.


 
Posted : 09/06/2015 10:20 pm
Posts: 25940
Full Member
 

Is your gear outer long enough/routed to avoid partial ghostshifts ?


 
Posted : 09/06/2015 10:24 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

As above I'd be checking cable tension and sanity of b screw position before diving into bearings. And then I'd check hanger and finally jockey wheels before going near anything else.

I love my T2's but the jockeys fail far too early.


 
Posted : 09/06/2015 11:16 pm
Posts: 11589
Full Member
Topic starter
 

Everything appears long enough...fully extended and fully squashed there is no appearance of short cable...jockeys also tight and bolts all appear sorted.


 
Posted : 11/06/2015 9:34 pm
Posts: 0
Free Member
 

Had the same thing and it was the clutch being right.

Try moving the rear mech with your hand it should be stiff but smooth. If it judders or is very stiff at the start then gets easier it's probably that.


 
Posted : 11/06/2015 10:03 pm