Evening folks,
I have an itch to scratch in the way of an On One Inbred 26er with sliding drop outs running a single speed.
I have been looking into single speed kits but just wondering if the one On One sell has all you need to run single speed? From what I see it has the relevant spacers and the sprocket. I have heard that using a bolt up rear wheel is also better for chain tension? Is there a specific rear hub I have to get or does any job do the job with the spacers etc?
I am eyeing up the wheels on the On One website or a set of Mavic Crossrides.
Any help will as always be greatly appreciated.
Mike.
Need bolt specific hubs ... I.e hope trials or similar. Tbh you can get away with a bolt up skewer such halo you just need to get slightly longer as you probably have a chain tugg which will add a few extra mm.
I use a Surley chain tug and have got away with using a regular quick release.
quick release & tug has always been fine here.
I use surly but have stripped through several skewers, maybe my hubs are a touch wider?
Thanks for that guys. So a regular rear hub is not suitable then?
What about chain sets? Standard one be ok?
Regular hub is suitable.... It's what I use, you may just get the wheel tighter with a bolt up skewer as opposed to a regular qr skewer. They all work really....it's just a bit of trial and error to find what suits you best. I use an slx crank with on ones 32 t steel ring and bash which works a treat. Need short chain bolts though.
1981miked - Member
Evening folks,I have an itch to scratch in the way of an On One Inbred 26er with sliding drop outs running a single speed.
If it's actually a sliding dropout version then you can use a normal quick release without any problems and you won't have to bother with chain tugs, of course.
Ah I see. Thanks for that mate. So all I need is the rear conversion kit and a chain tug and some porridge to get it tight?
Need to get the wallet out now...
Oh nearly forgot.. Is a standard Bottom bracket suitable aswell?
If it's got sliding dropouts (as opposed to track ends) then wheel fitment is no different to any "normal" bike, as it has vertical dropouts.
Whatever BB you want to use really - depends on what cranks you're going to use.
Probably a set of XT's I'll buy from a mate.
If you go for a std hub (Shimano), just swap the axle for a solid nutted one. Does away with tensioners.
Bottom bracket is no different. Single ring up front will require some shorter chain ring bolts. Rear will require a cog, spacers & a lock ring.
That's what I thought... I think. Cheers again guys. Always count on STW to answer a question.
FWIW I have slot drops and I use a QR. You can buy QR chaintugs which will make your life easier. I use a standard hub with spacers.
try velosolo, charlie the bikemonger or superstarcomponents fro the hub spacers and sprockets.
I use a standard qr hope xc hub, hope qr, and a pair of unknown chaintugs. Works great, no slippage. Slot dropout inbred.
Yeah tried that velosolo site and seen some nice shiny spacers and sprockets.. That's what I'll have. I noticed some of the widths being different, does it matter what width I get in relation to the front chain ring and chain?
Apologies for all the questions.
Mike.
I don't believe u CP unless u post a pic...
don't believe u CP unless u post a pic...
alright, I'll take one later!
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I'd ask On-One for a price for a complete package - frame, wheels, drivetrain, etc. then you know it's all compatible and [i]may[/i] work out cheaper...
ps you don't need porridge for QRs, they work on a cam and shouldn't be overtightened 😉
I use a wide base sprocket of unknown origin (bought off here), 32t deore front ring, SRAM PC1 chain and the spacer/sprocket kit came from Superstar
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=58&products_id=265
Pick the right ratios and you won't even need sliding dropouts or any for of tensioning device. That way you can run conventional Q/R skewers.
I have this set up on to bikes and it works well and good tension is maintained. After a few hundred miles of off road riding the chain will wear and need changing but this is the case with any bike. chain should be changed at 0.75% wear. The other advantage of this approach it is cheaper as less parts are needed.
[i]Pick the right ratios[/i]
We can't all run 41.5:22.75 though 😉
he's got a frame designed to be run singlespeed with no tensioner - he shoudl be able to run a fairly standard 32:16 or 32:18 with no problems.
I run 34:16T on mine but I could run 38T:16T with a new chain with an extra 1" added in. You can generally find a ratio that is suitable with vertical dropouts with no tensioner. It is just easier to setup with sliding dropouts but it is far from essential.