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I have a set of x type RaceFace DH evolves however I have worn the torque settings off the self extracting top cap. Don't spose someone could post the settings please?
Many Thanks!
Bast@rd tight 🙂
yeah, but not too Bast@rd tight as I wish to be able to pedal the bike as well! 😀
Have Deus XC, arent they designed to be tightened until they bottom out?
Tried here?
[i]Have Deus XC, arent they designed to be tightened until they bottom out? [/i]
Yes, the new ones are. Don't have a torque setting printed on the cap.
Thanks DezB, I have those instructions and they helpfully state "Torque requirements may range from 30 - 60 ft lbs to bottom out Diabolus X-type cranks"
Pretty much the same as my Deus then. Tighten til it stops.
what I am trying to achieve is a happy medium between tightening them up to bottom out which puts lots of load on the bearings resulting in a crankset that doesn't like to spin and the opposite end of the range where the things rattle loose. I thought the best place to start would be the torque settings that were etched onto the top cap.
I think I can make out the main bolt requires 20nm torque, it is just the top cap bit I am starting to think the tighter the better for that one!
Yeah my xc ones are until they bottom out and they don't pinch the cups at all when I do this...
I do remember seeing that this required about 40nm in the manual though...
what I am trying to achieve is a happy medium between tightening them up to bottom out which puts lots of load on the bearings resulting in a crankset that doesn't like to spin and the opposite end of the range where the things rattle loose. I thought the best place to start would be the torque settings that were etched onto the top cap.
They're supposed to bottom out and you don't adjust the bearing tension via the bolt torque, otherwise I'd suspect they're likely to come loose. If they're not spinning freely when bottomed out then you need to tweak the spacers or preload elastomers. From the instructions...
OPTION 1:
- Remove assembly from bike.
- Remove 1 x 1mm chainline spacer (preferably from non-drive side so
chainline isn't affected).
- Re-install remaining spacers and re-install assembly into bike as per
installation instructions #5 and #6 above.
OPTION 2:
- Remove assembly from bike.
- Remove all spacers and seals from LH (non-drive) side of spindle
assembly.
- Remove 3.5mm Quad-Ring preload elastomer from recess in LH
crank and replace with supplied 2.5mm pre-load elastomer (flat
shape, black rubber) into recess in LH crank.
- Re-install spacers and re-install assembly into bike as per installation
instructions #5 and #6 above
Instructions are amazingly useful things:
I have a Race Face ride crankset. Until I got a new BB, I had to tighten them up until they bottomed out, then tighten tem up some more...then ride the bike for a couple of miles, then tighten them up some ...and so on and so forth 😉
I'd definitley use threadlock on any of the external BB RF chainsets - as above, if they go loose once, they just get worse and worse until they're fit only for the bin...
DM52 - As stated above, you need to tighten the cranks down until they hit a definite, postive stop.
This will NOT effect the side loading on the bearings at all unless you have the spacers set up incorrectly.
If in doubt nip it down to your local IBS and ask them nicely to cast an eye over them.
Richie