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Creaking has been occurring on my 4 frame for a number of months now. Definitely not the BB as that's been disassembled and reassembled.
It is lessened by the tightening of the rear quick release leading me to believe its either a dropout issue. However, the quick release has to be tightened exceedingly tight for the creak to lessen but still not disappear.
JamesO, what do you suggest? Will a store be willing to check it out in case its a frame issue?
Thanks,
C
jameso - any info when the frame sets will be available? Ta
cgreggers, could be hub end caps or the QR itself. Call the shop and see what they say, if you've been able to narrow it down to the area they can have a closer look.
inbred853, frames are in stock now. Seems to be taking a while to get uploaded online but we do have them.
Thanks for the response. Will drop it in tomorrow and see what they say!
Cheers, Jameso
Picking my frame only option up on Tuesday, can't wait, so excited.
Mechanic couldn't seem to fix the creak. Replaced the skewer with a shimano equivalent however flexing the bike with your foot on the chainstay still leads to a clicking sound.
However, the noise when pedalling has ceased by the sounds of it, hoorah! So lets see how we go over the coming weeks.
Great service from the mechanic at Spitalfields. Was happy to spend the time explaining what he did to try and fix it.
Cgreggers I've just ordered a arkose 4 from Birmingham store. Hope no creaking on mine!!
I'm 6ft 3.5 and 94kg so I'm sure I'll find out soon after I pick it up.
Cgreggers I've just ordered a arkose 4 from Birmingham store. Hope no creaking on mine!!I'm 6ft 3.5 and 94kg so I'm sure I'll find out soon after I pick it up.
It only appeared after a couple of months so I'm thinking it might be a localised issue. Probably related to the skewer.
Is there any reason why the wheelbase is soooo long on these? On my large, its 1060mm - which is an inch longer than my other disc drop bike, and about 2 inches longer than my race bikes.
Probably steady on rougher roads, but it feels a bit like a barge on corners.
mtbtomo, I can't say I've ever worked to wheelbase as a critical dimension. FC-RC balance and front end geo I do, the WB is what it is. Just checked. 1047mm on the L Arkose based on the CAD drawing. The HA and fork offset adds 20mm over a typical race bike and the chainstay is 425mm, std CX stuff, 15-20mm more there.
One man's barge is a another's 'stable, sling it in', perhaps. Used as a road bike on 25c I get down proper-fast hairpinned descents faster on my Arkose 4 than I can on my race-angled bike but I do ride the Arkose a little differently, suits me better.
Yep, the rear centre is pretty much the same as my other disc bike (Saracen Hack), so like you say its the front centre thats longer.
I'm probably riding it on a long one in the hills tomorrow, so no complaints 🙂
I've ordered an Arkose 3 on Friday, fair looking forward to getting it.
Do the rims come fitted with tubeless tape? What internal width are they? Will they take 25c tyres?
I've already posted it elsewhere on here but feel this thread needs a pic of my Arkose. Lovely bike, so chuffed with it.
[URL= http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn304/teadrinker1977/Mobile%20Uploads/20150612_20030022_zps7eb9d395.jpg [/IMG][/URL][URL= http://s307.photobucket.com/user/teadrinker1977/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150612_1954122_zps73c60bae.jpg.html ][IMG] http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn304/teadrinker1977/Mobile%20Uploads/20150612_1954122_zps73c60bae.jp g" target="_blank">
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn304/teadrinker1977/Mobile%20Uploads/20150612_20030022_zps7eb9d395.jpg [/IMG][/URL][URL= http://s307.photobucket.com/user/teadrinker1977/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150612_1954122_zps73c60bae.jpg.html ][IMG] http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn304/teadrinker1977/Mobile%20Uploads/20150612_1954122_zps73c60bae.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
Got my Arkose 3 yesterday, the green looks fantastic in the flesh.
Only ridden it around the yard so far but it feels good.
Are the hubs cup and cone or cartridge bearing?
Nice touch getting a spare mech hanger too.
Heres my 2, complete with 50c Marathons at 40 psi! Commuter, winter, gnarmac bike 😈 :
[URL= http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f241/Dave_H34/20150622_110351_zpst2i8n6el.jp g" target="_blank">
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f241/Dave_H34/20150622_110351_zpst2i8n6el.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
[URL= http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f241/Dave_H34/20150622_110742_zpsr6b3qflq.jp g" target="_blank">
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f241/Dave_H34/20150622_110742_zpsr6b3qflq.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
50C? They must be small 50s but I like your style.
Rode up a random mystery road in Taiwan at the weekend on my Arkose. 300m to 2300m in one climb and google earth wasn't very clear on what the road would be like. 30 miles of great riding to get to the start of it. Most normal roads in the mountains here get exciting at some point, this one may be one of the best but my 25s let me down, double pinch flats at 1000m in 35+ degrees heat then more flats when it turned into a jeep track. I learned that 25s are rubbish on shale-strewn tracks, knotted tubes hold 60PSI well enough and Taiwanese forestry guys can be quite friendly towards foreign trespassers who found the padlock on a gate up a mountain road open. Thought it was game over at the gate but curiosity won after a closer look at the lock : ) They did gesture which way I should carry on after I finished pumping up my tyre though. One for another time - there was still 12-15km to go.
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50C? They must be small 50s but I like your style.
Marathon Supremes, 28x2.0, more like 45mm in reality I think. Reasonably shoehorned in though 😀 . Front mudguard (55mm width) was cut into two and additional mount fashioned for the front part, there was no way it was going through the fork legs with that tyre in there!
is that it for the framesets? Only giant sizes listed on the evans website now.
Evans website quote [quote=evans]revised fork geometry... and an all-new 2015 frame with lighter gauge tubes, more extensive butting, and internal gear cable routing
Jameso/Anyone got any more info/pics? Geo page is still from 2013-14...
Gear cables seem to go into down tube, but can't see where they emerge. Any chance it could fit Di2 cables in the future?
Lighter tubes, more butting = lighter frame? more flexy?
Just picked up my Arkose 3 from Evans and looking forward to riding it. Only slight niggle is that the chainstay on the inside of the big ring has a little paint damage. Looks like it's due to chain suck possibly caused during a previous test ride, paint and primer has been removed and it's down to the metal in two places.
The Kenda SB8s also have a lot of cracking in the rubber on the sidewall, almost the entire circumference of the tyres.
What do you think, raise the issue with Evans or just keep it as is and crack on?
madeupname - MemberGear cables seem to go into down tube, but can't see where they emerge.
out of something like this:
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which seems a bit like a bodge to me, but a little research suggests it's a reasonably common solution.
(apparently that's a photo of a Tricross, and the same idea has been used on Cervelo frames)
Any chance it could fit Di2 cables in the future?
no idea, sorry.
Going to get some SKS chromoplastics, what size do I go for? Crc lists 35, 45 & 50mm options.
Seems a pretty neat solution to me. Easy to thread internal cables through.
Any sizing tips on these? At 5'11" I am dead on the line between medium and large. My normal road bike is a 56 which would suggest to go large, but the TT is longer on these.
I did demo both sizes a few months back and seemed to think the medium felt a touch short, but the large felt quite tall. I'm struggling to remember my exact thoughts though!
Going to get some SKS chromoplastics, what size do I go for? Crc lists 35, 45 & 50mm options
How about [url= http://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/accessories-c11/mudguards-c146/pdw-full-metal-fender-set-p11122 ]45mm PDW metal ones at £40?[/url] My Chromos snapped three times on my Pompetamine - got fed up with sticking them back together.
bacondoublecheeAny sizing tips on these? At 5'11" I am dead on the line between medium and large. My normal road bike is a 56 which would suggest to go large, but the TT is longer on these.
I did demo both sizes a few months back and seemed to think the medium felt a touch short, but the large felt quite tall. I'm struggling to remember my exact thoughts though!
I'm 5' 10" with a slightly short torso and I got a L / 54cm Arkose 4 at the weekend.
The tall head tube and 90mm stem initially felt upright and tight to the body. However I discovered pretty quickly that braking on crossers is quite different from my usual on the hoods road braking.
However the extra height has meant braking on and riding the drops is pretty comfortable, if not quite scary on scrabby descents!
Oh and I think the hydro STIs are longer than normal. Just enough to make it feel different
Ive got those guards and they are brilliant absolutely rock solid and loads if cover.
I'm 5' 10" with a slightly short torso and I got a L / 54cm Arkose 4 at the weekend.
The large is 55cm seat tube, 57cm top tube according to the site?
@ BDC
That's what the frame label says. If I get a chance I'll put a tape measure against it
5ft 11 and I have a large arkose. Feels just right.
I'm just under 5'10" and I just rode the medium, felt very upright compared to my regular road bike but the right length.
The large is 55cm seat tube,
It's a 54cm, I need to correct that pdf. TT is 57cm.
5'10" medium here - wouldn't want any bigger. First ride was 100 miles with bike-packing bags over 2 days - very comfortable.
James, can you provide the correct measurements for the medium too? Thanks!
BDC, they're all 10mm shorter on the ST than the list, M is 51cm.
I think I would probably be better on a large with a shorter stem, than a medium with a longer stem. Maybe.
^ agreed.
Just stuck a tape measure against the "L / 54cm" Arkose 4 I got at the weekend ^^.
Top Tube actual 55cm
Seat Tube centre - top 53cm
Head tube 17.5cm
Chain stay 43cm
Wheelbase 104.5
Thanks for that m1kea.
I'm going to try and get (yet another) demo on a large this weekend, but family time might get in the way... I could get the length the same as my race bike on a large with an 80mm stem (maybe even then standard 90mm due to the slightly steeper seat angle) but with a 40mm higher bar height. The only doubt I have is whether I'd want this bike a bit shorter to go with the more upright position. A 70mm stem would be pretty short for this type of bike!
The only doubt I have is whether I'd want this bike a bit shorter to go with the more upright position. A 70mm stem would be pretty short for this type of bike!
Personally I think there's no reason to go for a race bike position on a bike like this. It's designed for riding where you need a bit more ability to control the bike and being stretched out or having a low bar doesn't really help there imo. It may feel different at first but a bit shorter and higher is good. A 70-80mm stem is fine, you won't have quite as much weight on the front as a race bike so cornering at times needs a slight forward weight shift rather than a road bike's simple lean in and go, but that weight shift is second nature for MTB riding and a bit of that works well on the Arkose, on or off-road.
For ref the 55cm measurement m1kea lists is the TT measured along the tube, approx. It's 57cm effective / level, so with a 74 seat angle that's a fairly roomy front end hence the 90mm stock stem.
I opted to go bigger with shorter rather than smaller with longer. I'm on an XL with 80mm stem as opposed to a L with probably a 110mm stem, still don't know whether I've done the right thing! What i do know however is that it rides fine, not in the slightest bit twitchy, i guess the head angle and wheelbase see to that.
If anyone is considering an Arkose 2 its also worth noting that the TRP hoods are 20mm or so longer than normal (Shimano/SRAM) which makes sizing even trickier, there's a compromise to find for the reach to 'tops & drops' position vs reach to hood position.
Hi all,
I'm stuck deciding which size frame to get on an Arkose 4. I'm basically bang on 6'1", so between the L and XL. I test rode an XL the other day, which felt ok, but possibly a bit too stretched out (I have long legs, short body and long arms - I think freakish is the term!). It may be because this is my first drop-bar bike and I'm more used to my smallish mountain bike though...
So... because I'll mainly be using this for road commuting duties (about 14 miles each way), I'm leaning towards getting the XL and then just getting a shorter 90mm stem instead of the stock 100mm. Do others think XL this is the right way to go, rather than going down to the L frame? (However, I've seen a few of you on this thread at 6'1"/2" being happier on the L.)
I think I need to try and find a L in store to test, but any advice greatly received!
Thanks,
Paul.
I just see the TRP hoods as 20mm of added stretch when I need it. Similar reason as what I like about Jones H bars, a good fore-aft grip range.TRP hoods are 20mm or so longer than normal (Shimano/SRAM) which makes sizing even trickier
Paul, sizing is always difficult to guide people on but fwiw I'm a bit over 6ft, 34.5" inside leg and ride a L with an 80 or 90mm stem. 80 or 90mm flipped upward for mainly off-road on an Arkose 2, 90mm in the usual position on a 4 I use for road riding. If a bike feels a bit too stretched on an iniial ride then for me at least I'd only feel that more as I ride it further. I don't buy into the idea that we need to become contortionists or regular stretchers to flex onto a long, low road bike. Leave that to those that are paid to get results by any means.
It's 57cm effective / level, so with a 74 seat angle that's a fairly roomy front end hence the 90mm stock stem.
James - that's what has me torn between the two, and wanting a more relaxed position than my road bike, as you also mention. The TT on the medium would be spot on, but having a 34" inside leg would mean a lot of seatpost!