Just post some photos. What happens if you ride with a decent bend in your arms? Can't support upper body?
As has been said, sounds like a long stem with quite a bit of rise, and maybe some spacers under the stem, would do the job. Unless it is way out you'll be able to make it fit. You'll probably find you end up lowering it back down gradually after a few months of riding.
Heres an option for you Hora..
Take the Drops off, fit flat bars, lower the seat a little and add a 60mm stem, stick some 30mm tyres on it and use it to commute on.
Or
Turn the drops upside down al la 70's kids racer'esque and ride like that.
😉
[img]
Turn the drops upside down al la 70's kids racer'esque and ride like that
Good advice right there,some of those paper boys are pretty quick ,even with a bag full of Sunday Times.
FARM4.STATICFLICKR.COM Eh?? Reeeallly??
Looks fine from the 11 floor..
WhatchaonaboutHora?? ❓ 🙄
FFS Just post a pic of yourself on the bike, sideways on.
And keep an open mind about the responses.
before throwing money at the problem
was a mainly reference Hora thinking he needed a new XL frame, but
Buying a stem is not throwing money at the problem
it is if he buys a longer stem on some aribratry "its the right length" basis, and ends up buying another 2 before he finally settles on the original as being right all along now hes got used to it...
I dont think I need a XL. I think I need to work on contact areas/setup as mentioned above. I didnt have this issue on the old steel 57 (?) road bike before so unsure its core.
Im not posting a pic of me on the bike. That be photoshop/internet gold..
Exactly. Which is why you need to post it. The old badger tubeless pumping meme is getting verrrrrry long in the tooth...
^^Phew, for a moment I thought the internet would break, Thanks 😉 😆
As mentioned .. Stretching and core work will sort it out..
Nemesis that image crossed my mind 😉
Ive just done 4hours on my 'wrong size' mountain bike. Those that stick to manufacturers recommendations on mountain bike sizing need to get out and experiment more... it aint shoe sizing afterall. If you put me on a large or XLarge Santa Cruz Id hate it. 8)
Road biking is different kettle of fish to off road sizing IMO.
[i]Im not posting a pic of me on the bike[/i]
Don't flatter yourself buttercup, we just need a picture of the bike, side on, so we can see the setup.
Funny how Planet-X would recommend a new frame, hmm no vested interest there at all. 🙄 Don't give these idiots anymore money.
But seriously move the seat forward, before messing with stems. I just did this on my road bike and it's now freaking awesome, and I don't get back pain after 40 miles like I did before. Nothing else changed it's still the same bike, seat, stem, bars etc.
Oky doke will do later post another fettling spin.
[img]
Binners wins the internet today.
genius!
Proper giggle.
😆
www.flickr.com/#/photos/30625376@N06/14434950631/
Cant link images on my phone but I notice my saddle is angled too much? Which would mean slide/having to prop against bars?..
This pic is max spacers. Next one is 5mm down
Linky no worky
Das Linky unt busted. 😥
Sort that seat angle out. It's tipping you forward, and putting all your weight onto the wrists. I'm inclined to feel this thread is also at an angle, tipping us onto your setup, with a big reveal coming.
Assuming you are serious. Your STIs really shouldn't be pointing at the moon, either.
[img]
FARM3.STATICFLICKR.COM 
FLICKR.COM Surely this is a wind up? That seat angle? I'm surprised it's not putting your chin on the stem!
Other than that, the bars need turning down, the stem is too high (but if it's comfy...it just looks shit) and generally, the whole perspective of the saddle height and stem makes the top tube look short.
I would say the bike Is too small for you. It should be long and low.
I still think this is a wind up. The saddle angle is too obvious.
Make it stop.
Looking at the pic it looks immediately obvious?? I was so intent on sorting my sitbones/avoiding cock pinch.
Nice matching bottle though
Not being funny Hora, but in your opening post you said that you'd had a bikefit. Wtf did they do, if your saddle is at that angle, or was that just a bit of licence?
Or are you trolling?
Make it stop? Dont read or post then. Simple.
Not being funny Hora, but in your opening post you said that you'd had a bikefit.
Obviously, that was for another bike.
As an aside, Brant is strangely absent from the thread.
*plays x-files theme tune*
My eyes!
OK...
1) Set the saddle horizontal and in the middle of the rails, not rammed forward like that.
2) Set the bars so the top bit is actually flat when viewed from the side, that's pointing skywards.
Then go from there getting the saddle height correct then moving the seat forward/backward as necessary to get to a point where, with the pedals horizontal (3 o clock/9 o clock) your knee is directly over the ball of your foot which should be directly over the pedal axle.
That's the base position from which you can take everything else.
When you're on the bike with your hands on the hoods in a normal riding position, have a look down at the front hub. It should be obscured by the bars. Again, all of the above is guideline rather than gospel but it's the starting point for all the adjustments.
Not surprised you're in pain from that, the saddle is pitching you right down onto the bars...
Also, your back yard needs sweeping, it's looking messy along the fence line.
Vinney no the fit was on a jig last Sat. Bike was 200miles away at home.
Pre purchase it was me on rollers trying a large then a xl with the salesman advising large.
Owwww! Bike looks too big, not too small 😉 . Set the saddle back on the rails so the peak is 5 cm behind the BB (it's 73 degrees after all), and [b]level, definitely level[/b]. Sit on it with your shoes on and heel on the down pedal. Leg should be almost straight. That will get you close to reasonable height (88% of inseam from BB is my guide). Now pedals level and take the weight through your legs as you lean forward. Knee over pedal at 90 degrees? Should be close for most people. Lean a long way forward. Weight should still be through your core and legs.
When your saddle is in about the right place, we'll worry about bars. But as Jamie says, the angle isn't bad, but the shifters are all wrong
From your picture, you've shorted the reach by moving the saddle forward and rotating the bars. Neither is desirable.
The [b]real[/b] issue though is the bottle. It should be white.
Flatten the seat angle, fit a 120mm stem, turn the bars round so the levers are vertical (or slightly tipped up at most), sell it and buy the next size up.
Bottle was a bargain shop buy. Will sort a white un 🙂
Tired will make adjustments and re run route tomorrow night.. cheers guys.
Whoever set that bike up should be punished by riding it.
Aah, so basically they just measured you for a frame size.
My advice, book a proper session with the bike you own. Without any experience yourself you could be ****ing around for months trying out different things- this way you'll be set up at least fairly decently.
a couple of newbie roadie/triathletes I met this weekend have saddles like that, arguing it stops them putting weight on their family jewels. Saddles are designed to work level, and if youre sitting on your tackle your rotating your hips forward rather than bending at the waist, which is a flexibility issue. Funnily enough one of them is complaining of shoulder and neck pain.
So, as above, saddle and bar tops level (which will put the hoods about level).
Set the saddle back on the rails so the peak is 5 cm behind the BB (it's 73 degrees after all)
"peak", do you mean the tip or highest part?
Buy a big box of biscuits (not broken ones) and/or some beers (not rubbish so premium imported lager or real beer in bottles) go to your LBS and say "I am fully aware that I have bought a bike purely on price elsewhere and i now realise that was the wrong thing to do but could you spend half an hour with me sat on the bike and sort it out for me please?"
Because that pic is a joke.
Bottle was a bargain shop buy
Something tells me if the next frame size up/,down was £10 cheaper the pic of the bike would look even more moronic.
peak = front. Saddle peak will be about 5cm behind the BB axis. It is a better measurement than saddle position on the rails because it corrects for seat tube angle. A one degree change in seat tube for my 74 cm saddle height is 1.3 cm on the rails. So two bikes can have the same rail position but be out by nearly an inch due to geometry differences.
crazy nails it really, Hora is so far away from a good neutral position that any rough guide will be an improvement!
Good call from TiRed and Mr CraaaazzzzzeeeeyyyyLegs so I'll refrain.
I'm not even going to take the piss, no, no I'm not. You know why? I think Hora will follow the wisdom and unabridged helpfulness that abounds here and the genuine open honesty.
Have fun Hora, life will be much nicer once you sort that jaunty angle out.
😀
Surely the front of a saddle is the nose?
Have you got any experienced road riding sorts you can meet up with who can just help you get the bike properly set up in the flesh, away from any retailer? Just getting bars, STIs and seat all set up properly will probably do the trick, it's no wonder that thing's uncomfortable!
