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I read something about this in MBUK recently (and now can't find the article!) I'm sure it mentioned putting a 29er front wheel in a standard rigid fork on a bike meant for 26" wheels?
Anyone read the article themselves (is that what they actually said?), and just out of interest, has anyone tried it!?
Suppose it depends on the A2C of the rigid fork vs standard suspension fork etc etc, plus your frame geometry too...
hmmm...
yes its great fun. Geometry is entertaining rather than racy though.
I use mine if its boring flatland riding, as a full sus makes you bored as hell.
So what's your set up in terms of fork then? You using a rigid? What about the frame - what is it designed to run?
Cheers
So, is it "ask allan about his bikes" day? Second so far...
Here's my very entertaining 4569er. RC31 fork.
al.
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i did an old inbred with an rc31 a few years ago it was good but a bit chopperish . Didnt last long like that
Can't do the image linky stuff to fotopic anymore but pictures are here
http://gallery124018.fotopic.net/c1641889.html
It is a 67er.
Same wheel as for a 29er but with a little CX tyre so it fits under the fork brace. Rides remarkably well and doesn't appear to have cocked up the geometry too much. The 2.4mm of clearance between tyre and fork brace worried me initially but hasn't been a problem when riding it.
Suppose its a better idea than buying a dedicated clown bike frame.
That's really nice Allan - I had been thinking it might work better with a 456 with a standard rigid as the geometry might work better...
I did just that with my Cracknfail, 440mm fork and 29" front wheel replaced the Headshock fork (480mm for 80mm travel) and 26" wheel. Because of the long length of the hedshock it means the new setup is acutally 10mm lower at the front so the handling is still spot on :0)
I love it!
It's true that the 456 geom is better. It's intended for a longer fork so I suppose it has a steeper head angle, so when the front's lifted higher the head angle's what you'd expect. I initially did this to a DMR Sidekick frame, it was great on uphill switchbacks but wandery on the downs & great big turning circle. I rode the 456 like that for ages last summer, might build it up again.
Got a proper "clown bike" now though...
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al.
Just remembered this one http://gallery124018.fotopic.net/p43785198.html
It was an on-one 29er that I stuck a 26" fixed wheel on the back. It was this bike that persuaded me to get a 69er in the first place
For it to work well (i.e. sharpish steering) the bike needs to be designed for a 100mm travel fork or more and have a relatively steep head-angle. If you go the custom steel fork route you can make pretty much any 26" bike work.
Now I know how to do the images thing
[img] http://images.fotopic.net/?iid=yw92jm&outx=800&quality=70 [/img]
[img] http://images.fotopic.net/?iid=yo2gui&outx=800&quality=70 [/img]
Does that Inbred have a 29er fork? It'd work much better with a 26" fork - something about 440mm in length is what you're after.
Ach - you're doing it the wrong way round...
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The Inbred was originally set up as a 29er. I just stuck the 26" wheel on the back so I could try riding fixed off road.
5" travel hardtail, 440mm forks, 29er front wheel = virtualy unchanged geometry.
500mm fork + 13"*25 -35mm sag = 790mm ish
440mm fork + 14.5"*25 = 800mm ish
I sort of agree with the above, but for a 5 inch travel fork, doesn't the overall length vary between different forks in terms of axle to crown (ie a 5" Fox fork might actualyl be longer than a 5" rockshox?)...or am I getting more confused? 🙂
Actually TINAS, scracth that last comment, I'm getting 500mm confused with 5 inch (as you do!)