[Closed] Lyrik Coil U-turn Internals

TFTuned usually a good place to start.

OP why?

Thanks. Any other [cheaper] options?

The 2 Step mechanism has failed again. It lasted 6 months this time.

The 2 step is great when it works (easier and quicker than talas IMO), but I fancy something a bit more reliable and the ability to set travel to 150mm.

I have the main (red) spring from a lyric U-turn that you can have for postage plus price of a pint, if that's any use? I swapped it out when new so its never been used.

Thanks Garry, but I will probably need to buy the internals as unit, so I don't think ill need an extra spring.

How old are you forks? 3 weeks and secondtime my 2steps have failed on me. I'm asking for them to put in new coil internals FOC.

My lyriks are 2008. This is they second time they have failed since purchase.

TF tune did did the original (out of warranty) rebuild and made a good job of it. But even still a £95 rebuild every 6 to 8 months is too much, so i'm looking at coil internals.

Twice in three weeks is terrible, who did the rebuild? Even the pre 2010 2 steps should be more reliable than that!

Fisher. 2step the first time (and I strongly suspect) the mission/rebound this time.

Your 2step stanchions- are they two different colours? As in distinctly different in appearance?

Afternoon, Ive done mine - get a friendly bike shop in the US to order direct from Sram. RS spares are dirt cheap really and fishers seem to whack the cost up. Done this with replacement cages for SRAM mechs too and replacement lever blades on juicy carbons.

The top cap, spring assembly and another small part cost me about £45, even with recent exchange rates. Saying that, it was part of a larger order and the owner was getting some other business rather than just firing spares across the pond. Justification for some bling perhaps?

Beagle

No my stanchions are the same colour. Certainly not distinctly different anyway (i will confirm when I get in tonight).

Why do you think its the mission control unit?

Its not hard to see why two steps have problems, too many O rings:
[url= http://tftunedshox.co.uk/catalogue/image.aspx?img_id=da1e62ae-4ebd-4af1-a447-9bbb0108ebe9# ]Rebuild kit[/url]

Beagle, thanks for that info. Who was your friendly bike shop in the US?

Mine are definitely two different colours. Here are some notes I've made soo far:

- Adjusting the fork psi: The forks became very linear* and squatted right down into its travel at 90-100psi. Raising the psi made the forks very ‘wooden’ and pogo-fast. So I backed off the psi again and wound in fully the compression. Nothing. The same. Even at 95psi the forks dont reach the 15% sag marker on the stanchion.
- The low speed compression at both ends of the spectrum doesn’t seem to do anything. I.e at 100psi I ran the compression towards both extremes. The fork still dived straight down.
- Even at full slow on the rebound the forks kick back.
- Whilst on the bike the 2step is still too slow. You have to stand over the bars/’monster’ then manual 2 or 3 times to get the 115mm travel to pop out to 160mm. This means you have to plan everything well before you get to the rough stuff. That is abit annoying on a long ride TBH.
- The compression dial has lost its ‘clicks’. It just rotates smoothly now so you can not tell how many ‘clicks’ you have dialled on or off to the compression.
- Last night I released the air out of the forks using the pumps release valve. Compressed the forks and there were still 2-3inches of stanchion showing. According to a friend this means seals have blown?

Hora,

I run my forks at 80-90psi (75kg rider) depending on the type of terrain. They are very linear in this pressure range(which I like) and in the car park test appear very 'divey' on pumping/braking. However when riding ive never registered fork dive as an issue (IME all forks dive but you ride around it, my lyriks dont seem to dive more than any other long travel fork i have tried).

With regards the damping I would make sure its set up as per recommendations and go from there. All is I can say is that the linearity of the lyriks made it harder for me to dial in the correct setup. It needed a fair few rides worth of twiddling before i was happy.

When my two step was working correctly, a quick dab of the brakes or pump compressed the forks sufficinetly to engage 115mm travel. They have never 'sucked' up the travel. They can be a little slow on returning to 160mm too, but nothing deweighting the front end slightly dosn't sort out. This can ruin the flow a bit, but for me the pay off is a bike that climbs better than it should when required and descends better than it should when needed too.

Not sure about the main seals being blown, but it would be shocking on a nearly new fork if that proves to be the case.

Anything over 110psi becomes stiff as a board and pogo-stick like though. Dropping the pressure makes them active but drop right down into the stanchions. Crackers. Pressure-guide says 120psi+ for my weight.

Aye I can imagine, I have tried running higher pressures for smoother big days out, but small bump sensitivity just dissapears.

Maybe coils are the better option for you. (sorry that's not much help!)

The internals you require can be found here: -

[url= http://www.twowheelsgood.co.uk/index.php/search.php ]Lyrik Spares[/url]

Just type in "Lyrik" in the search bar.