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I've been outside trying to remove the cranks from my spesh epic which the "internal" bearing. I removed the non drive side in 2 mins flat but couldn't get the hollowtech axle to move out through the bearings to enable me to remove the bearings themselves.
What's the right way to remove it, should I be hitting it with a mallet and if so how hard. I'm not a leightweight so don't want to get carried away with a carbon frame and end up with splinters!!!
Please help.
internal bearings?
a few gentle taps should get the axle free of the bearings. it should then slide quite easily until the axle meets the other bearing.
GeeWavetree - Memberinternal bearings?
i.e. not the ones in external cups...
the axle stays put then in a cartridge no?
if it's a hollowtech "one" system, it's a sealed-unit cartridge BB just like older shimano square taper ones
I think
It's hollowtech 2 and "a few gentle taps" didn't get it on the way. It's only 12 months old but I bought it 2nd hand from a jet wash cleaner type person judging by the corrosion on the wheel bearings...
If HT1 then both cranks remove in same way.
Big whack then!
Unscrewong NDS cup may help.
show us a piccy!
Ignore this - I read the original post wrong...
what are you trying to achieve mattp ?
get at the bearings, or just get the cranks off, or get BB out to replace, or ...
how did you get the NDS crank off - blind luck & pulling or using the self extracting bolt(s) ?
[url= http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=120 ]try here[/url]
[url= http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=94 ]or/and here ?[/url]
EDIT - just read your last post: if it's HT 2 then it is external bearings. However, if it is, you DO get the drive side off by belting the far side of the axle with a rubber mallet or something. If it's HT"1" or octalink then no amount of battering will shift the axle.
hold tight for some pics...
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scaredypants - Memberwhat are you trying to achieve mattp ?
get at the bearings, or just get the cranks off, or get BB out to replace, or ...
how did you get the NDS crank off - blind luck & pulling or using the self extracting bolt(s) ?
I need to replace the bearings as it's getting a bit of a wobble on. I've ordered replacements based on the info that I had and I'm picking them up in the morning. Removed the crank arm by removing the allen bolts and centre lock type nut [with the right tool]
Its spesh's version of bb30/push fit bearings. Not sure how you remove but I'm sure someone on here does.
those are ht2 arms but that doesn't look like an ext bb to me! on face value i would say that u have an isis bb there and as such u need a removal tool for that ( so u can unscrew the bb ).can u see all the way thru to the other side of the bb?
not very clear - might it be BB30 shell ?
The crank looks to me like it's a "whack with a rubber mallet" job but I don't properly recognise the group/type to be sure how it's done (didn't some xtr cranks have a different fit??)
Spesh website says its Custom Shimano BB-91, OS, press-in bearing.
looks like a rubber mallet job? dont see them very often. good luck
the pics are a bit cr*p under the lights in the garage. I'll take some more in the daylight tomorrow... there's definitely no where to attach a tool to the parts that I can see after removing the crank arm and I'm a bit reluctant to start prizing plastic/rubber seals off in case I ruin something that needs to be re-used...
I reckon...
if the inside of the axle looks unbroken/constant surface I'd chance giving it a whack (if it was my bike) (I'd take chain off rings 1st mind)
BB30 are press-fit aren't they? No idea how you'd remove - I'd think about drifting them out from the back I guess
Frankly, I'd ask a dealer (it's a spesh epic ?)
pretty sure then that a clout will pop that bugger right out then, try to support the frame from the drive side when you do, i use xt 2009 ht2 and that also can sometimes require a little extra persuasion, not sure how to remove the bearings on yours tho!
Frankly, I'd ask a dealer (it's a spesh epic ?)
The current model - I'll give them a call in the morn, thanks
Just MTFU and hit it. Use a soft mallet or a cushion it with a bit of wood. If the axle is corroded tight to the bearing then it'll take the drive side bearing out with it. If nothing moves then drop some penetrating oil in between the axle and bearings both sides and leave it overnight.
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?PartnerID=79&ModelID=50263 ]http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?PartnerID=79&ModelID=50263[/url]
something like this?
one for the morning crew before I take it in to the shop??? has this beaten me?
mattp- have a look at [url= http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=178 ]the Park Tools instructions.[/url] With a carbon frame and the risks of screwing it up I would personally want the right tools to keep everything square, so the BB removal tool bruneep links to and a headset press (or big vice and some way of keeping pressure on the outer, not inner race at least). Axle removal should be a hammer job though...
Hit the axle with a rubber mallet. My Saint cranks are tight and I have to do the same. I should guess the reason why its hard to remove is because the bearing has stuck to the axle somehow. If you smack it the bearing will either release from the axle or come out of the frame. Either way you have a result.
Just make sure you grease up the new bearings.
OK guys, thanks very much for your help. I've spoken to spesh and I need a BB91 [Shimano pressfit]. From talking to the guy at the shop it's obvious that it is just a case of hitting it harder then tapping out the bearing as described above and pressing in a new one.
I am going to get it done by my LBS as they have helped me out before and on the basis that it shouldn't be a big job it's not going to cost to get it done properly.
Thanks again. mattp


