headset removal - h...
 

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[Closed] headset removal - how can I make one of these?

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after spending an hour last night trying to remove supertight headset cups from a frame and nearly putting a screwdriver through my leg, I have decided to buy one of the spring steel removal tools like in the picture below
.
before I do, is there an easy way to make one? I tried a while back with a piece of alloy tubing I found under the bed, but it lasted one hit with a lump hammer. where can I get spring steel pipe from and how do I flare it?

[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 4:23 pm
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got to be sprung steel if you want to make one, just buy one alot easier


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 4:30 pm
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I made one by sending a small amount of money to CRC,
I was surprised at how well my first attempt at manufacturing went- just a little bit of finishing to the plastic on the outside and it was ready to use! 😉
(and it only took 24 hours to 'make'-brilliant)


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 4:41 pm
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Cut a piece of tube from an old steel frame cut slots in it and splay the end.This has always worked for me


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 4:46 pm
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I use 1" copper pipe, w/ 4 cuts as above - ensures no damage to the alloy cup or the frame.


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 4:50 pm
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Those ones you buy will fold

Using a solid bar works, without damaging the cup


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 4:50 pm
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part of me likes the challenge of making bodging tools!
looks like sprung steel tubing might be hard to come by
.
so where do you put the bike/ frame when you're removing cups? I tend to sit down and put it on my leg, mainly so I don't damage the tubing. putting it in a stand, clamped by the seatpost doesn't work as there's too much movement absorbing the hammer blows


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 4:51 pm
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bakey, isn't copper tubing too soft?


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 4:53 pm
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bakes, re. your home-made tool fetish- fair enough!
I've seen frames damaged by the screwdriver/ bar method as the uneven way the cups comes out twists the headtube, and at a minimum, stretches the paint around the ends of the headtube, leading to corrosion.
This is on aluminium, not steel, frames though; that won't affect those of you that have yet to enter the 20th century 🙂


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 5:03 pm
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the screwdriver method has always been fine, I've got a battlescarred Hope headset though which has suffered about 8 frame changes over the past
.
nearly had a monumental f*** up last night though as I accidentally had the screwdriver inside the downtube and was hammering away 😯


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 5:14 pm
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I've seen frames damaged by the screwdriver/ bar method as the uneven way the cups comes out twists the headtube, and at a minimum, stretches the paint around the ends of the headtube, leading to corrosion.

If that is true (which I doubt), it's user error.


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 5:16 pm
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Peice of tubing and cut four slots with a slitting wheel (or similar).

Spring steel will work best, mild steel may be OK too.

My 1 time experience as a teenager using copper as a drifting tool didn't go to well. 😉


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 5:17 pm
 Drac
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I use an old set of handle bars, took 24 secs to find them.


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 5:19 pm
 IA
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I use screwdriverzilla, it's so comically oversized I've never used to to turn a screw.


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 5:27 pm
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I use an old steerer, seems exactly the right size for some reason


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 5:30 pm
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I used a wheel brace like this:

[img] [/img]

I used the end with the biggest size that would fit down the head tube and bashed the cups out.


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 5:34 pm
 jonb
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copper pipe, hacksaw shove a cork up it to splay the ends. It might even be adjustable to 1.5" if you get a bigger cork.

Instructables has one on there somewhere. I just use a screwdriver, I only ever remove headsets when they are destined for the bin.


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 5:36 pm
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Cynic-al, you seem to be constantly trying to pick me upon things.
It is true, It may indeed be user error, but using the correct tools make user error less likely.
Otherwise bike shops would just use screwdrivers to do this job.


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 5:39 pm
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http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1190007

you'll need to be logged in to see the pictures


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 5:41 pm
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I got a length of steel pipe from B&Q - no idea what variety of steel

cut the 4 slots and it works great. It's also long enough to use by holding the frame & whacking the other end of the steel tube on the floor/bench (just seems less likely to damage the frame that way, to me)

- keep a cloth over the headset cup so it doesn't blind you though


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 5:47 pm
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Old seatposts work too. Drill holes first and then cut towards them with hacksaw - prevents shearing.


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 6:22 pm
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Thanks for the ideas, I've got another headset to knock out next week so will bodge somethng together - I like the copper tube and cork idea most; there's just something nice about copper


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 7:28 pm
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Copper tube wont work - I tried it yesterday 🙂

Old seat tube is the way forward. See here: http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/thanks-singletrackworld-forum-peoples for details on the one I made.

David.


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 7:36 pm
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honestly get something like [url= http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Cyclus_Headset_Cup_Remover/5300003487/ ]this[/url] money well spent in my opinion, gets job done in seconds.


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 7:48 pm
 br
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the bar from an old Britax socket set works for me


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 8:07 pm
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Mine is made from a titanium tube from a broken bike frame - titanium certainly seems to work well 😉


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 8:38 pm
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Mine is made from a titanium tube

Oooooooh get you... 😀


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 8:44 pm
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aren't frame tubes a bit thin ?


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 8:49 pm
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Copper tube wont work - I tried it yesterday

Worked for me. Certainly easiest to make and no problems x3 for me. I guess if it doesn't work then move on to one of the numerous plan B options here.

Incidentally, I was after buying one from one of the internet retailers and they emailed back and said - not in stock and frankly not good value, get yourself some 1 inch copper pipe and make one - so I did. They gained future sales from me for honesty as well.


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 10:16 pm
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I spent and hour making one, lasted a few headsets then bought a cheapy £10 one. Why I wasted my time on the DIY route I have no idea. Put your hand in your pocket this time mr croc.


 
Posted : 02/04/2010 10:35 pm
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bakey, isn't copper tubing too soft?

It is soft, but not too soft. I've used the same tool on 3 headsets, might need to trim the bottom off the next time I use it. A bit more hassle than a screwdriver method, but I've not marked or damaged a frame/headset yet.


 
Posted : 03/04/2010 10:11 am
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+3(?) for the copper tube. Its soft and both the hammered end and the flanges have suffered but I'd rather have a few pence worth of pipe as the weakest, sacrificial component than my £100 King Headset. I would never hit a soft aluminium component with hard steel and expect it to come out unscathed, even if thats what "professional" removers are made of.

(edit; this is with the intention of reusing a quality headset in a different frame, not binning a trashed h/set)


 
Posted : 03/04/2010 11:20 am
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Made these today after this post inspired me. Remembered having a broken vice kicking about, some solid bar, a pillar drill handle and an old seat post.
[img] ?t=1270306424[/img]
[img] ?t=1270306446[/img]
Also managed to nicely grind a bit off my knuckle. 😆
[img] ?t=1270306539[/img]


 
Posted : 03/04/2010 2:56 pm
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TheSwede, was that last photo a vain attempt at showing how manly you are after realising you're posting pictures of a pink toolbox? 😉


 
Posted : 03/04/2010 3:25 pm
 igm
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Bit of sawn off broom handle works well - and wood doesn't score the head tube.


 
Posted : 03/04/2010 3:41 pm
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It goes with my hat.
[img] ?t=1270309348[/img]


 
Posted : 03/04/2010 3:41 pm
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It goes with my hat. Take 2.
[img] ?t=1270317807[/img]


 
Posted : 03/04/2010 6:01 pm
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i got one brand new off ebay for under £10


 
Posted : 03/04/2010 6:04 pm
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[img] [/img]

it might look like a handlebar to you but it's a very effective headset removal tool to me


 
Posted : 03/04/2010 6:47 pm
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i have always used a long straight punch.it wonks a treat and i just tap round in a circular motion and with four-five hits the heatset pops out. never had a problem?


 
Posted : 03/04/2010 6:58 pm
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I just use a solid metal bar from a car jack. BANG and there she goes.


 
Posted : 03/04/2010 7:02 pm
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Yeah, never had a problem with a solid bar either but just fancied making one any hoo.


 
Posted : 03/04/2010 7:12 pm