So after a mega-moan on here a while ago I've generally been getting on really well with the tubeless setup on my gravel bike, and have been able to swap tyres back and forth as needed with minimal faff.
In fact, the only issues I've had have been one puncture at the bead which the sealant didn't touch, and generally cloggy valves which seem to need replaced/cleaned a lot.
When I change tyres I notice big balls of fibres in the sealant, which makes me wonder if there's any point buying the Stan's Race sealant as it looks like all the cotton fibres just clump up? Is Stan's Race overkill on a gravel bike anyway?
In turn I wonder if that might cure the cloggy valves a bit, or if I should consider those 76 Project valves. Or should I just source a can of silicon spray? I've seen it recommended to prevent clogging. I tried GT85 on the valve core but it didn't really help.
Ta
Silicone spray has always worked for us. We were given the tip by a mechanic for one of the teams at an EWS race.
We run Stans Race and have never had a problem with sticking valve cores since. Our daughter has been off the bike for a while due to a broken leg. First ride out on Sunday needed the tyres blowing up to the correct pressure, cores opened up with no problems.
Good to hear, thanks Tracey. Can you recommend a silicone spray? Wonder if Silicone grease would do the job...
I always store the bikes with the valves below 'a quarter to three' so that no sealant ever sits in the valves. A bit OCD, but works perfectly.
I've been using Stans Race for a few years in road, gravel and MTB tyres.
I can't get it into a tyre via the valve, it just clogs the syringe, although I guess you might have bigger syringes. It's even a bit of a pain with the fibres sticking to the bottom of measuring scoops. So I've always just popped a few inches of the bead off every ~6 months and topped it up straight from the bottle.
I can’t get it into a tyre via the valve, it just clogs the syringe, although I guess you might have bigger syringes.
I've never even tried a syringe, I just check that tyre will pop on without sealant, then deflate, pop off, pour sealant in, then inflate again. I think last time I even skipped the 'test' inflation and just poured sealant in then inflated, seemed to get away with it.
Will try silicone spray first then, have a pack of ten valve cores to get through anyway.
Thanks
I always store the bikes with the valves below ‘a quarter to three’ so that no sealant ever sits in the valves. A bit OCD, but works perfectly.
This.
if you take the core out and wash with warm soapy water, then dry and apply silicon spray they go for ages
I always store the bikes with the valves below ‘a quarter to three’ so that no sealant ever sits in the valves. A bit OCD, but works perfectly.
I always try to do this, so either I'm forgetting on occasion (v.likely) or it's the act of deflating tyres/adjusting pressures (for whatever reason) which is drawing sealant into the valve, not sure.
I use WD40 as I can fold the full nozzle down when not in use. For topping up I use an old Stans 2oz bottle as the top fits nicely into the top of the valve and I know how much I've topped up by approx. 60mlts. never had a problem with it clogging the bottle or the valve stem.
Stan's race has bigger particles in it, they don't recommend it going in through the valve as a result
I know they don't recommend it but for us its the easy option and never had a problem.
I always shake the bottle up to mix in the particles and as the hole on the nozzle of the top up bottle is smaller than the valve it always empties in with a couple of quick squeezes and no mess
I really dont rate stans. Never had any success and it clogs / sets into nasty little balls and lumps in the tyres.
So far muc-off is the dogs across my whole fleet. For sealing & not clogging my valves. Made the switch in August this year and cant fault it.
I get clogged valves on my road bike usually as a sign the valve core rubber is on the way out. So air seeps out and the sealant does its job and seals. For me it signals new valve core time.
On my MTB’s its the same story but also by not riding it as often which for some bizarre reason makes rhe sealant dry up quicker and also storing it with valves at the bottom and near the sealant.