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FYI - as it's such a hot topic.....
I’m nearly 60, I ride mainly local natural xc via map/nose generated routes(I like a nice track but it’s also about exploring a new area, scenery, wildlife and I just feel good when I’m outdoors away from it all) and ‘easy offroad’/cylepaths/canals etc with the good lady. I have a very simple bike history - tricycle, singlespeed, then aged 17 a big gap when I discovered offroad motorbikes, years later, in the very late 80s, after having great fun on the hired dutch cowhorns at centre parcs, I restarted on a Giant Terrago(rigid) , then a Univega 509(front sus), then a Marin Mount Vision(round tube f+rsus), then in about 2006 I played a blinder on ebay and got a new Orange 5 pro hope (so oil forks, air rear shock, hydraulic discs) and at that point, after 4 bikes in 15ish years, my cycling evolution stopped. (Although I suspect more modern stuff/bigger wheels etc is better, it’s not something I feel I need), I’m quite happy bimbling about on and fettling the Orange. The one exception was going tubeless, deffo one of the best upgrades I’ve ever done.
I currently I manage say 25ish miles in summer and maybe 15-20 in winter but then I’m done, so for me the main purchase reason is to allow me to do more of the same thing – cover more ground whist still enjoying the trail, scenery etc etc .
I finally cracked in a sale sale (yep sale on a sale) and got a 2017 Scott 710 e-spark (and Brexit had just put new bikes up about 10 to 15% as well so prices going wrong way). I wanted the shimano motor (no pedal drag and a brand I’ve had very good results with), fox suspension(ditto), xt running gear (ditto) and I missed the cheap Ghost Katos on CRC My buying criteria were a mix of price and componentry with hoped for long term reliability/maintainability.
Things I don’t like:
- battery(in front of frame tube), battery lock cover and battery charge port cover get totally mud covered, both keyhole and charge port are protected by small plastic tabs – which will no doubt break off sooner or later, (and I took the muddy battery inside in freezing winter – gf happy[*not])
- it’s not a good fit, 1cm gap at top of battery (*going back under warranty tho as lock appears iffy)
- bought a front syncros mudguard (as on 2018 bike model) – useless – doesn’t stop mud getting all over battery or stanchions, now on a mudhugger – which is definitely better, I also added a bungee on damp proof course plastic flap that covers the lot.
- The left hand grip locks to the twinloc lever ? why - I can’t move the lever on the bars.
- Stem top cap is not round like every other stem I have and spacers are shaped to mould to shaped stem – so swopping stems requires buying more bits ………….
- Support – when I asked syncros what tyre sizes that x35 rims supported and for the internal/external widths they told me they didn’t have that information to hand and the bike manual is for the bosch engine version
- I didn’t like internal cabling anyway but it looks like battery, battery holders(pita as must be 372.4mm apart) and motor out on an ebike to change - grrr
Observations
- Gears are fine, however I have RR on all my other bikes, for 11sp the only RR fix appears to be DI2ing the rear mech, which costs!!,so under review and internal cabling will make it hassle.
- The twinloc (suspension control) which I didn’t think I would use I am using but not that much
- Dropper ditto (but less so than the twin loc) – but it’s easy xc where I am
- It’s heavy(*goingish rate for a susp ebike) - 22kgish, which impacts lifts over things, I cheeky a lot. I’ve had to change my technique. Orange 5 – either lift over obstacle or hold above head on both arms or(more usually for me) can hold forks and balance bike on helmet so 1 hand free for kissing gates/stile pole/manouvering/balance etc. On the e bike – either straight lift (which is a lot harder – heavier, less good handholds due to susp design), can lift overhead but it’s a bit wobbly/risky(so not suited to tricky/wobbly etc obstacles) , am tending to do 3 stage lift – front wheel onto obstacle, bb onto obstacle, then simultaneously try to get front on ground and rear on obstacle then sort of roll down on brake/holding rear wheel(obviously varies with obstacle shape/size and space around it). Not elegant but no disasters as of yet – but I think if cold/wet/tired I might avoid some known tricky obstacles on the e.
- Bluetooth phone app so you can ‘tune’ the motor settings etc - works well (*app is limited, you need extra kit for ‘full tuning’).
- The left hand ‘gear’ shifter is the motor power selector up/down –very intuitive to me, 4 modes – off, eco, trail, boost (and walk).
- Display easy to read/use, well placed, (different colours for each power type)
- Has a walk mode (hold a button and it goes about 2mph) – sometimes useful in stuck up a hill mode but a bit slow/gutless
- Very little motor noise (small whine)
- Even in our winter monsoon season no cutouts (but I try to avoid really deep puddles)
- Range – (Oxfordshire) well varies, managed 47 miles (1000ft ascent)with theoretically 16 miles left (*I’m now suspicious of the range facility based on other figures)but I also managed 30 mile ride (500ft asc – motor off a lot as flattish and legs good) and a 21 mile ride (1600 ft ascent – motored a lot more, hillier and legs crap) on the same charge and had about 15 miles left. 28.3 miles(legs ok, so pedalling), 2130ft ascent – used 2/5 of battery. 37 miles, 1600ft ascent – legs really good[lots pedalling], used about 1 mile more than 2/5 of battery. So with my style of usage it looks like 50 -70 miles is doable but the longer I go the more likely I am to motor as I’m getting more tired.
- In very overgrown conditions(dense 4ft grass/un pathed crops/rape etc) I find the extra power(eco) is often the difference between walking and riding
- 2.8 tyres grip a lot more and puncture a LOT more than 2.0/2.1 but roll better than I expected
- Impressed with Shimano manuals - http://si.shimano.com/#/
After new toyitis/experimentation I now (mainly) do downhills – off, flat – off or eco(esp if legs tired/hard going),hills – eco and save trail/boost for steep hills/emergencies, its increased my cadence slightly as it seems to work better at a slightly faster spin (than my personal usual,) but it works fine at lower spin as well – in fact if I still bimble along at 5-6 mph if I’m enjoying the view and if it’s a nice well surfaced hill and legs good I’ll plod up unassisted watching the world go slowly by. I still use the old Orange 5 though and I suspect even more so in winter as there is less to clean/maintain.
In summary it makes me smile(a lot) - I’m going further, seeing new places and doing more hilly rides(esp with hills at end of ride) and I’m very, very pleased with it. Get one but maybe not one with an unprotected front loading battery for UK conditions.
Good critique and lacking in usual “I paid for it so it’s brilliant” new buyer blinkers.
Nice straight review, thanks. I didn't realise there was a 'walk' option.
I had always planned to buy an ebike but after returning totally slaughtered after Sunday's ride, I think it might be sooner rather than later so I really appreciate an unbiased review. When I have asked in shops, all I get is how an ebike will zap me to the top of all the biggest hills- not so much about the practicalities of living with one
Change gear to vary wheel speed in "walk" mode. But yes. it is still a little gutless.
One other thing about the Shimano motor that's a little disappointing is that It stops assisting altogether above a cadence of around 120-130rpm. I don't know what other motors are like at faster cadences but this did surprise me.