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Rear axle is seized, not at the threaded end, but the opposite end cap is corroded on I think.
when I undo it it unscrews fine but spreads the rear stays, the axle stays put, with the hub end cap rotating on the quick release lock thing side.
Ive done lots of hammering to push it through and also to push the stays together, it doesn’t move.
So I was thinking I’d dismantle the quick release bit to get to the bare axle and drill it, hopefully saving the hub and end cap.
Alternatively I could try and dremel the end cap and break it up, but not sure how easy it will be to find a replacement vs an axle.
Its a cheap Sunn wheel.
support the stay on the side the axles comes out of and give it a few decent taps? stops the shock being dissipated in flexing of the stays. use something to prevent the it you are hitting getting damaged
penetrating oil?
Ratchet strap the stays together, or rope would work.
Lay bike on side support on firm surface then try rubber mallet or hammer
If you have ally stays some heat on the washer might help , but don't go mad and melt the frame.
Molgrip and rotation might get some movement, I wonder if it is bi metallic or galvanic corrosion that's stuck it together.
TJ, yeah I tried that with the big hammer after a couple of pints.
STM, I’ll try a strap, but I thought it might not be enough.
I could do with a massive g clamp
Thanks for the suggestions
Rear axle is seized, not at the threaded end, but the opposite end cap is corroded on I think.
I had trouble getting the fork axle off a mates bike a few years ago when he asked me 2 change his brake pads and do a bleed. It was actually seized to the bearings inside the hub and not the end caps and it was a hell of a job to remove it, he'd obviously put it in with no grease whatsoever and hadn't had the wheel off for a couple of years. Lots of wd40/gt85 and perseverance with a hammer and steel bar eventually did the trick, turning a 20 minute job into around 3 hours toil although the axle was, surprisingly, ok to use again
Been there and had to hacksaw the axle in the end.
As above, it will almost certainly be the bearings seized onto the axle.
Support the frame around the head-end dropout on something solid (blocks of wood as packers onto a concrete floor is ideal) then with the axle unscrewed a few turns to spread the dropout, give the other end a proper clatter with a non-marking mallet and it’ll pop free.
the important bit is to make sure you’re banging onto something solid. Bikes are remarkably springy, so if you’ve got the bike upright and freestanding, you’ll lose most of the impulse into the frame, tyre, wheels.
Thanks all, latest is this- after tightening the quick release end fell apart, now I can’t undo it at all.
Shite
edit- used a torx bit hammered in to turn, so I could still just saw it, the axle is knackered anyway I’ll just lose the end cap or wheel as well if I can’t then remove axle.
So I’m able to unwind the axle with the torx driver, I can have a go at sawing the hub end cap and axle. I’m guessing an angle grinder will be best here to saw through.
Next question is how do I find the correct rear axle?
I’m guessing an angle grinder will be best here to saw through.
I wouldn't go anywhere near it with and angle grinder.just hit it with some enthusiastic hacksawing
Okay Josh I will.
Next question is how do I find the correct rear axle?
roberts axle project via sjs cycles. there is an axle finder thingy to find the right one
Thanks Jeremy, blooming expensive mistake! I suppose I could measure it and take the drop out into a shop to try the thread pitch.
I had to do this with a friend’s PX gravel bike - the front axle thread had seized in the drop out and he’d managed to round the hex in the head completely. First, best use new drill bits getting progressively bigger as they’re less inclined to wander / go off centre plus apply lots of oil - 3 in 1, chain lube anything is better than nothing. I still had to cut through the wheel end cap to get the wheel/axle out when I found it was seized at the drop out rather than inside the hub - if the end caps are easily available, that’s where I’d start as you can get the wheel off the bike and go at it from both sides. I’d steer well clear of any bike with an angle grinder as one slip could trash it.
Luckily, I can still unwind it using a torx jobbie rammed in the threaded end as it is hollow. If I can get the quick release end bit cut off I might be able to wangle it out after cutting the axle tight to the cassette end.
Christ knows how I’ll get the axle out of the wheel though but I’ll worry about this later.
I think I'll grease up all my axles and seatposts tomorrow 😯
Update- got the axle out without destroying the end caps.
managed to saw right up against the caps- they are a bit scratched but not bad.
Got the wheel out and put in big vice to hammer the axle back and forth.
The inner hub bit came out leaving just that and the axle.
Put the hub tube back in vice, resting up against the vice jaws so without pressure then tapped the axle out using a big torx wrench as a punch.
