Whoo Whoo Fedex just called and now Troutie is up to his eyeballs in leds.
I will do my best to get them out but it will probably be sat before I can get them packed and need to cut some more Ali up .
you can Paypal (no fees please ) any time now addy in profile .
DONT FORGET YOUR ADDRESS and Stw user name
Help!! What have I done wrong... Got it all together, and the lights come on, great. But, the switch has no effect, no dimming, no off - just lights on all the time. Also, it doesnt seem very bright (though neither am I) but it is daylight so hard to say but it doesnt strike me as being anything like what it should.
I have checked all is wired up as per the diagram and it seems to be correct. Any idea what this is symptomatic of?
Sure you haven't got a short round the switch v8, just check again.
Going to get the sort out the payments.
so is it
trout £20 ??
blackcat £9 ??
btc - yhm regarding 18650 holder
trout - if you have a another kit spare, then can you put me down for one. no worry if i'm too late.
Adam ... Turn off power ..... carefully check you have no solder bridges between any of the 5 solder pads on the driver.
Try temporarily unsoldering/disconnecting the "A" lead on the driver board (or unsolder it at the switch). Reconnect power. This should guarantee full power to the Leds, if your other connections are all good, and Leds are right way round and not shorted anywhere. If it still seems dim then you could try one Led at a time.
If you get full power on both Leds with nothing attached to the "A" pad then try shorting the "A" pad/lead to battery negative (be VERY sure it's to battery negative and not positive! POOF!). This should shut off the driver and Leds.
If this works, connect your chosen resistor between "A" and battery negative ... this should go to low mode. Again be very sure you don't connect anything between the "A" solder point and battery positive!
See how that goes ... let us all know.
I've just taken mine apart and found that the LED -ve cable had come away from the driver, that'll be my amazing soldering prowess me thinks 😕
Having put the cable into the driver board everything behaves as it should do, lights on, high/low beam and correct off function which is all good. Bad point is the switch is upside down so the off is up if you see what I mean. Doesnt affect function just a minor niggle.
I'll see about getting that re done then its just wodging silicone around the driver and reflectors, leaving overnight and then final assembly tomorrow evening 😀
As a thought I guess it would be easier to silicone around the switch and power cable grommet before the driver board had been AA'd on?
If you want the switch to work the "other way up" without physically rotating the switch ... find the lead at the switch whose other end connects to battery negative and move it to the opposite end of the resistor that it is connected to now!
That'll do it!
edit: This works if the "A" lead is connected to the "middle pin" of the switch. Trying to get my head around this if you've connected the battery negative to the middle pin of the switch ...... for now better not try this if that's what you've done!
Thinking cap on ..... 🙄
OK .. assuming you've not done anything fancy with the switch (like used a double pole to switch the battery as well as the light levels) and you've used Trouties wiring and the switch does its [b]low/high/off[/b] thing .......
..... then whichever control lead goes to the resistor can be [u]moved[/u] to the other end of the resistor and that will reverse the order of the switch .... [b]off/high/low[/b] in this case.
I take no credit for any "Poof"-iness that occurs here!
I thought my switch was the wrong way round so I wouldn't worry too much, think it's just personal preference.
TBH I'll leave it as it is. I'm happy enough that its working properly now and I can sort things out for the second build next week.
I have found one other boob which is a difference of about 3mm between the end of the reflector and then end of the case. Short of sawing a lil bit off the end any idea's?
Trout, payment sent for 2 kits. thanks
Stayhigh - sure, no prob
Could you elongate the holes in the L bracket so they are oblong and then you can shuffle the bracket forward a bit? Or .... if it's the reginas sticking out ... shuffle the bracket back a bit? Guess it all depends on where you drilled the holes in the case and the bracket. You may need extra washers or nuts if you originally threaded the bracket.
Its a good idea but the problem would then be filling the gap once the screws are in place to keep it weather proof. Maybe a blob of silicone?
It may not be physically possible in your situation, but I was suggesting you leave the hole in the case as it is now and alter the hole in the L bracket. Of course, you have to use a nut on the inside as I don't think you can tap an oval hole 😆
Ahh I'm with you now. The holes in the angle heatsink have been threaded but I do have nuts that would fit them. Hang on a minute that didnt come out quite right lol.
I could superglue or araldite the nuts onto the angle maybe?
😆 I just got back from a meet up with Lipseal. He brought along his little Hammond light and it blew away my 10W overdriven halogen main beam! But you all knew it would 😆 .... I'm stonked, can't wait to build mine!
What an excellent beam it gives out ... it's got everything I want .... good hot spot and plenty of spill. The spill upwards might need a bit of taming for road use ... but plenty of time to play with it once I've got all the bits built up.
The heat seemed very modest considering we were just standing around pointing the beam here and there, my case is slightly smaller than lipseals as I cut mine down to 2 * 38mm to get two out of one 80mm Hammond. I was worried that it would be too much for 2 xp-g's but I reckon it'll be OK.
Thanks Lipseal .... I'll be buzzing off this for days!
Stayhigh ... Yep! You got it. Araldite or even try your silicon. Not sure about superglue ... is it OK with the reflectors?
Trout, payment sent. Thanks
BH: Superglue not for reflectors it would be for sticking the nuts to the angle heatsink after elongating the holes.
It is an awesome bright light, had a little play in the garden and can't wait to get out with it tomorrow night once its (finally) finished 😀
Stayhigh ..... it's the fumes off the superglue if you use it to glue the nuts .... I may be wrong but I thought I read that they can have an effect on optics and reflectors.
Anyone know?
Just a quick note that say that I've not forgotten all you lovely guys and gals (assuming there are gals on here that is!). I'm up to my eyes building more drivers - I'm going to finish off my current stock of PCBs which will cover the 50 I have on order (including yours, Troutie) and leave me maybe 20 for the next batch of kits. I'll try and sort these out tomorrow - I've got the bits in but not even opened the box yet!
For those asking about battery holders, I've not yet ordered from Digikey, that will probably be over the weekend so I'll collate all requests and add them to my order.
I'm also putting together another batch of PCBs - I've changed the design slightly for various reasons and the next board will be roughly 22mm square so slightly larger than the old design. Power and LED terminals will be on opposite sides and it will have the dimming resistor built in but with the shutdown control still accessible so all you will need to do is wire the switch directly to the PCB. I'm also doing a smaller version which will allow me to cost-reduce the 670mA version of the driver and size-reduce the 330mA one for anyone still using those.
Am I too late to bolt on to the 18650 cell holder bulk purchase?
If so could I have
2x 4x18650 holder - BK-18650-PC8-ND
2x 2x18650 holder - BK-18650-PC4-ND
can paypal over monies as soon as required
cheers
Trout: due to my hamfistedness I've managed to blow one of my LED's. If you have one going spare from your last shipment can I put my name on it please and if so how much is it?
BCT,
Can I add to your order.
2x 4x18650 holder - BK-18650-PC8-ND
2x 2x18650 holder - BK-18650-PC4-ND
Many thanks.
Just thought I'd get the 666 one 😈 thanks for the links BH look interesting.
I'm also putting together another batch of PCBs - I've changed the design slightly for various reasons and the next board will be roughly 22mm square so slightly larger than the old design.
BCT,
It would be way better if you could keep one of the dimensions under 20 mm. All these lights use 20mm stars, optics, and case so its a pain to fit anything bigger.
BCT - Any news on the lumi can drivers? 🙂
cant you just glue a bigger driver to the top of the case?
+1 for under 20mm for one dimension of the driver, Stephen. I can just fit your current driver vertically in the Hammond case and save a lot of space.
All major components of this build fit together so well ..... Case is internal 20mm, stars 20mm, Led plate easy available as 20mm angle or channel ... your driver 19mm.
Payment sent trout, thanks for your work.
I'll have a look in to it and see what I think. Problem is that the existing board is really a little on the small side to give enough heat dissipation for the driver. There is a newer, cheaper version of the driver chip out but it needs to run cooler. The plan was to increase the PCB area to see if that was enough and if not then at least the existing driver will run a little cooler.
As a reference, the IC manufacturer uses a 25mm square PCB as their reference for heat dissipation so I would still be under that even at 22 x 22.
Would something like 24 x 20 be any better?
BCT I think even 30x20 would be better than 24x24, as it would mean people could still vertically mount the pcbs in the good old Hammond case.
Still got problems - can't get mine working. Light not coming on at all now: dimsnatled it, checked for shorts (visually only, havent got a multimeter), re-did all the solders, tried disconnecting the control wire...al to no avail. As the lights did come on previously, I presume the LEDs are OK as are the connections to them - so i think there must be a problem with the driver or the 3-way switch. Once I get a multimeter what else can I can do to check where the fault lies? Anyone suggest a fault finding routine?
Agree with Jazid .... 24 x 20 .... 30 x 20 even! OK 24 x 20 better 😉
First stop is to check power is getting to the components on the board - don't check the input pads as dry joints can still read as there could be a connection to the solder but not to the actual PCB.
Locate components R2 and C2. The end of C2 where it is labelled is 0V. The end of R2 where that is marked (and also the unmarked end of C2) is positive. Check there is power there - it should be whatever your input voltage is.
One way to test the LEDs is to get a PP3 battery - preferably not a rechargable - and simply connect this across the LEDs. This is safe, especially for short periods, as PP3s can't give out a lot of current so you won't blow the LEDs. Don't try this with other batteries - the only reason this works is the limited ability of the PP3 to supply power.
Next, turn your multimeter to current, 1A or higher range, and connect it across the outputs of the driver. Note that many meters need you to change where the probes plug in for the higher current ranges. With power applied to the driver this should read around 0.98A.
Last thing I can think of is to short the driver output and measure the voltage across R2. This should be 0.1V.
By the way, don't assume the LEDs are wired OK just because they worked once. IMS PCBs are fairly tricky to solder to as the metal draws the heat away and makes dry joints very easy to achieve. I'd recommend anyone soldering these to do so [b]before[/b] attaching the LED to any additional heatsink. I also find it works well to pre-solder the pad, tin the wire and then attach the two by melting the solder already on the pad and applying the wire to it. Keep the wire supported until the solder is hardened - this can be longer than you expect, not only does IMS take a lot of heat to get it up to soldering temperature, it also retains that heat well.
Adam ... if you've disconnected the lead to the "A" control pad then it's unlikely to be your 3 way switch. You can be doubly sure that it's got nothing to do with the switch by just connecting up the power to PWR + and -, and your Leds (or led) to LED + and -, and leave the switch and it's leads out of the circuit while you fault find.
EDIT: Stephen beat me to it!
Trout- payment sent!
Hey,
Trout - Sorry to be a pain but how much do I owe for 4 LED's and 4 Reflectors through paypal?
Thanks
Elliot
BCT, I'm after a driver for do a Lumi conversion with my own heatsink. Keeping one dimension below 22mm would be ideal, as otherwise you run out of depth in the can. Loads of space the other way - even 30x20 would be fine.
pdw - is this the halogen or HID? I've got a solution for the halogen can with a custom heatsink but I'd also recommend running at less than 1A there anyway. For the HID I've just received one on loan which I'm looking in to options for.
Based on feedback I will redesign these as rectangular with one side maximum 20mm. I'll need to have a play in my CAD package before I can confirm exact dimensions.
Troutie, payment sent for LED kit - many thanks.
BCT, could I order a driver kit please? If there's a choice between two and three way I'd rather have a three way (insert appropriate innuendo here!), and if you haven't already placed your order with digikey could I add a 2x 18650 holder and a 4x 18650 holder please.
Cheers guys!
In order to test the runtime of the light I take it a desk fan would provide sufficent cooling?
As a thought would copydex glue be ok to use to bond the reflectors to the LED starboards and seal around the switch & power lead plug?
On the packaging it says its a
"strong natural rubber latex based adhesive, solvent & acid free, suitable for DIY,wood, metal, plastic, touch dry in 20mins, resistant to normal washing machine cycles"
I cant link to the company website as its currently under construction but its www.makingdiyeasier.co.uk
One of these for me BCT please
2x 4x18650 holder - BK-18650-PC8-ND
By the way, have you used LED's for lighting a reeftank yet...
Please change my original order for 1 to 2x 4x18650 holder - BK-18650-PC8-ND
Please.
is it possible to fit the 18650 battery pack in the hammond box so it's an all in one unit? Looks as though it would be very close. Is the internal box dimension 20mm high? (dont have mine yet) Holder is 21.54mm, battery 18mm so may be able to shave something off to fit it in?
mau - I thought about that too. Measuring my box with a tape measure I make it 20mm inside, and putting an 18650 in there leaves about 2mm space, so I don't think that holder would be an option for inside though I've not seen one in the flesh yet. The bigger problem is the width of that box would only let you put 2 batteries in side by side, so you would need a fairly long box if you wanted to run 4 18650s in it, to give space for the rest of the stuff that goes inside, unless you go for the next size of box up. So to run with 4 18650s i think it'll be an external battery pack for me.
Well, still not sorted my problems. Light comes on (did have a poor connection in the battery pack, so that was one issue, but not the main problem) but its very weak. The 3-way switch does nothing - no change in any position, light stays on. Disconnected the A lead as suggested - no change. Run a load of diagnistic tests with a multi meter. Im sure now that all the joints are good, and that the switch is working correctly, and that there is sufficient power in (from 8 x eneloop AA's). Output from the board is only 0.4amps so im left assuming the problem is something to do with the driver, would that be a reasonable assumption? Anything else anyone can suggest?
Hi,
I ordered a LED and driver kit.
Been reading through the thread, as far as I can tell I email and pay troutie £20 for the LED kit?
But what about the driver kit?
And finally, do I find instructions somewhere?!
Thanks
Adam .... so both Leds are lighting up OK , just at 0.4A instead of near 1A .. Yes?
You could eliminate the AA batteries as the source of the problem if you had a car battery handy .... 12 - 13V and lots of power available will not harm the driver (if connected the right way!).
Have you tried connecting the "A" pad to PWR negative. This should shut off the driver and light ... if it doesn't something is amiss with the driver.
You could ask BCT what the possibility of him accidently sending you one of his 350mA drivers was instead of the 970mA (even if very remote, I guess it has to be a possibility).
The only thing bothering me about your description of what you have so far at 0.4A is that, from what I saw of Lipseal's light on low setting I would not describe the output as "very weak" on a setting around that sort of ampage. In fact I'd be very happy running the light at the lower setting (not sure what Lipseal's low setting is exactly) so something just does not add up here. 0.4A and 2 * xp-g's should still be pretty bright .... 300-ish lumens!
yes, sorry, forgot to mention i did try shorting across from A to PWR-ve, and no change. so it does sound like a driver problem. it is definately too weak to go off-road on, not good enough for an unlit road i would say.
Adam, Was the 0.4A measurement with the LEDs connected or just the short-circuit current of the driver. If there is some limitation on the power input then you'd get a higher current short-circuit than with the LEDs in the circuit. As Bob says it should still be fairly bright at 400mA.
No idea where this would come from to be honest - won't be the 330mA driver as even a cheap meter wouldn't be that far out. To confirm it is the 970mA driver, R2 should be marked .10 Also, check what R1 is marked - I could possibly have sent you the dim mode version by mistake but unlikely.
If you are still struggling, remind me of your address and I'll pop another driver in the post tomorrow.
Regarding the kits, I need to finish testing tomorrow then will be able to post the kits out. As before, plug with flying lead and socket, switch with boot, driver and half-power resistors. Due to the increase in the driver cost and the more expensive switch I've had to put the price up to £9 delivered. If you want two kits knock a quid off the second one.
Please put your address in the Paypal message and I'd appreciate it being a gift so I don't pay fees. Address is in my profile. I've got 20 kits at the moment and possibly a few more depending how many drivers I end up with.
BCT- I will take one of those kits off you unless those 20 kits you mentioned have already been reserved by others? I appreciate I am one of the later takers on this project- I don't want to take one if others before me have been waiting.
I am at work so will send the payment later this evening.
Out of interest, why is the driver 970mA- is that a pre-assigned value based on the components used, or is that what you set it to? I was just thinking if people are finding that this light is cooling fine in the hammond box, could a higher rated driver be used, say 1200mA? I understand that the LEDs lose efficiency when they get too hot, is the concern that the driver could also overheat?
BCT I'll take two kits please as I have two lots of LEDs coming from troutie. I will paypal you the £17 in a minute. Cheers! 8)
yes, measured with the leds connected and powered up. Measured across the led + and - pads on the driver. The R2 seems to be marked .10 (as far as my failing eyes can see). R1 seems to say 3301...would that be right?
BlackCat - Are your switches more or less the same as [url= http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2341 ]these maplin SPDT OnOffOn ones?[/url] . I ask because I want to replace the clicky switch on a couple of DX P7 torches I'm cutting down. If you have a boat load would it be possible to make your life even more confusing and ask for 2 more to be added to my already annoying driver & battery holder order?
Going off topic a bit, would the RS cables you are doing with this kit be suitable for a P7 running off 2x18650s or is the 1A rating too low? If so would it be possible to also add 2 more of the cable and sockets too?
If this is too annoying please just say or ignore - I have a maplin about 10 mins walk from the office, its just they charge £6 for [url= http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35906 ]their 2.5mm DC power cables[/url]
Thanks for your time!
Hi All,
Long time lurker, first time poster here. I just wanted to say a big thanks to everyone that has contributed tecnically to this thread. Ive just built up one of these lights today, and I am pretty impressed with it so far.
Hope to have it out on the bike sometime next week for a proper test.
Can anyone tell me what the thickness of the 20mm star boards are, and what the total height is from the back of the star boards (plain side) to the front of the reflector once the Regina is mounted on top of the LED? Thanks.
according to my verniers, stars 1.6mm, reflector 15.2mm (without pins)
EDIT: my stars were purchased from ledtech but i assume they are the same.
one post per lumen
Thanks Gary ... now this may sound like a mad question, but is the total height from the back of the star to the top of the Regina 16.8mm? I can't measure this myself as I'm still waiting to get my 20mm Leds from Troutie. There might be some other factor involved ... like the back of the reflector sits a bit high on the Led itself ...not flat on the board .... etc. Thanks in advance.
freespace - Member
one post per lumen
LOL 😛
got my light built and i'm impressed by how bright it is. just need to seal it up to keep the weather out and i think it's good to go. thanks all for the help.
Can we go through this again?
I have found a battery and a tin. Scrounged a bit of wire, also got some melting gear together.
Now what do I do?
[IMG] 
[/IMG]
TY-PHOO TEA-P0T light! Love it!
Hi Troutie ... I know you're probably been out with the hound ...but when you get a chance, I emailed you asking how much I'll owe you. Thanks, Bob.
yeah, 16.8mm total for my reflector/star bob
Thanks Gary
What switch do I need?
Can I use a sub-minature switch from maplin with rubber boot?
Sure blackcat had included one but for the life of me I can't find it.
What resistor should I use for mid power?
Adam - Yes, that is the standard 970mA driver. Options seem to be either restricted input power for some reason or a fault on the driver. I'll post another tomorrow once I've finished testing this batch.
Bigjim - Don't you love websites that have 'click to enlarge' and all they do is make the background bigger? I think the only real difference to the Maplin switch is that the ones I get have an M6 thread, most are 1/4 UNF. The boots are M6 also which means they only fit the switches I get from Rapid. Also, at the moment I only have DPDT switches so slightly fatter and with a redundant pair of terminals.
Power lead is rated at 1A 12V DC in the datasheet - this seems way too conservative to me, the cable is 14/0.2 and 7/0.2 is generally rated at 1.4A. Not sure of the plug rating but I've seen this type running well over 1A before.
Defaultslipper - The kits go to whoever pays me first! Only a few gone so far. I should always be able to do them but I think most of the current stock of PCBs are committed so it may be 2-3 weeks before I can do more when this batch sells out. The reason for the rating is that the driver I use can only do 1A maximum, the resistor I use to set the current should give 1A but in practice it is usually slightly lower than this - you are talking a tenth of an ohm so any resistance in the PCB tracks will have an effect. I'd think that you could drive them harder in the Hammond case as long as your driver could reduce the current based on temperature to protect the LEDs when standing still, my current driver can't go beyond 1A though.
Quirrel - Any switch would do, it will be passing about 50uA! As above, the Rapid boot won't fit the Maplin switch though. 180k is about half power in my experience - I use 200k on the dim mode drivers but generally get about 530-540mA with that.
Other stuff before I get back to watching the GP - the Digikey order hasn't gone in yet as I've been held up with the circuit I need to order parts for. Should be the next few days though. If anyone wants holders or has special requests for the kits please email me direct as it is easier to keep track of rather than wading through posts on here and possibly missing things. I do have a few leads and switches spare at the moment.
Hi Folks .
had a few mails over the weekend and sorry you have not had any replies yet . been very cold and busy
will get some replies out later today
Steven might be better if you dim it down a bit more say 400 ma
as there is not that much of a difference at the moment.
defaultslipper - there is a (second)list roughly in order of request a few pages back, the idea being that the list is copied and repasted with your own name and request each time someone adds a request, so trout and BCT don't have to work out from individual posts. Suggest whoever put in requests since the list was last updated updates this list from its last posting with the new requests that people have put in since, trout and BCT are busy enough as it is i suspect.
BCT - thanks, I'll email you re the power cables to keep it simpler for you. Don't think a double pole will fit in my p7 torch so will go to maplin for those.
Troutie - YGM 🙂
defaultslipper - there is a (second)list roughly in order of request a few pages back, the idea being that the list is copied and repasted with your own name and request each time someone adds a request
Yep, think I did the last update. I was just asking whether the 20 kits BCT had built up were for existing orders that he was still waiting for payment for, or whether those 20 were now waiting for those on the list to pay to be allocated. BCT- payment sent, but will wait if others are before me on the list.
Looking forward to having a go at this sometime soon!
Trout,
I am not sure if you can help but I am wanting to fabricate my own bike lights. I have done some research but can't seem to determine which led to buy. I was thinking xpg in white run by a bFlex. Can you cast any wisdom on this for me.
2Flash.
Hows everyone doing? anyone been out using them yet 8) I guess once youve built one you want to build another for the bars/ helmet.
Remember the clocks change this weekend 😛
some one please do a list update my heads a shed at the moment.
2Flash
Depends really on what you want, the xpg and regina build on here will take some beating as it is the best optic I have seem for the XPG for long range throw .
you may need a different set up if you want a flood
mail me if you want to discuss different options .
First batch of kits going out today - Royal Mail nearly had me putting the computer through the window last night when their website decided I'd already printed the labels so I couldn't print them off but it sorted itself out in the end.
Still about 10 kits left at the moment.
About to order the battery holders - getting 20 each of the 2 and 4 way plus 1 and 3 ways for Ells. There are a few 2 and 4 way ones left in that 20 so if anyone else wants to get involved let me know.
Rough costs will be £1.75 for the 2-way and £2.25 for the 4-way. Postage for just holders will be £1.50. If you are ordering kits at the same time, kit price is £8 and total postage for the order will be £2. (The holders take the size from Large Letter to Packet and the weight will almost certainly be over 100g)
I AM STILL TRYING TO GET A REPLY FROM TROUTIE AND BCT ON AN LED CONVERSION FOR MY LUMI CANS!!!
Please help - I've been trying to get a reply for 3 weeks now 🙁
Sorry for the hijack!!
Hi Stephen just sent you an email RE: battery holders