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If any of the no-addresses turn into no-sales let us know, I'll snaffle a leftover set.
I have got the vagina reflectors today
Wow - are these going to cost more 😉
There are hundreds of brackets out there but its been attaching them to the light that has been puzzling me.
Im thinking of either [url= http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5611 ]MOUNT 1[/url] or [url= http://ant-supplies.co.uk/BicycleTorchMounts.aspx ]MOUNT 2[/url] and removing the section that would hold the torch body. The flat part that remains could then be screwed or glued to the bottom of the Hammond box.
Just a quick question. How much sinking is required for these at full? having looked at the ape parts that trouble sent, it seems a very small light can be made. I'm thinking external battery and inline switch. so only reflectors, leds and driver inside.
Ref the mount.
Surely this:
[url] http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=12871 [/url]
Can be used ?.
Remove the bar section, and use a washer and the nut.
Drill a hole in the underside of your light (assuming you've cut the hammond box into two parts to make two seperate lights) towards the rear of the light where your switches will be.
Then, before you close the box by screwing on the end plate, you hold a nut and washer inside the box, then from the outside you screw through the clamp into the nut.
Would this not work ?.
Then apply a little thread-lock and maybe a bit of epoxy around the washer to stop the light rotating, and I'd hope you're good to go.
Close the light up by attaching the end plate and I'd of thought that would be that.
Caveat: As I'm not familiar with the box or the mount, I expect I could be completely wide of the mark.
Alternatively, would this be OTT ?.
[url] http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Lupine_Handlebar_Mount_25mm_for_Lamp_Unit/5360009560/ [/url]
having looked at the ape parts that trouble sent,
Eh ????
Heatsinking a sort of rule of thumb has been 1 square inch of surface area per watt of power going in
as long as there is a good thermal contact from the led angle bit and the case either drilled and tapped or bolts and nuts .
and an airflow is present a case of about 50 mm is fine .
Though on hi in still air it will heat up .
Cree rates the leds to 150 degrees C and as long as a good thermal path is present the leds will be about 30 degrees hotter than the case near the leds .
too hot to touch is about 70/80 degrees meaning the leds are 120 .
thing with leds is the cooler they are the more lumens come out of the front .
Make the case too small and it becomes more difficult to build too .
£12 for that bracket on Wiggle 😯 God help us all!
[i]£12 for that bracket on Wiggle God help us all![/i]
Yeah, I know, I was just [i]brain storming[/i] on a solution for the mount.
There seems to be quite a few making this light now, and I'd hate to see you all thwarted for not getting a feasible mount.
Just trying to help.
😉
Thanks Lumi you sparked an idea that is very Eco warrier .
I use the botton half of the electron mount for my Liberators
and chuck away the top half now look at the pics .
I ran into the garage and in 2 minutes had a Lupine style mount sorted .
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The postage is going to cost me a fortune but will chuck in a half mount
as well for free .
You will have to find your own Oring though
I can see a 'what 'O' ring' thread coming along very soon 😆
Do I use a Viton,Nitrile,PTFE,Silicone, EPDM or Neoprene? Just can't make my mind up? Standard black or colour match my frame? 
lol @ lipseal
That bracket looks heaps better than the Lumicycle job sent with my hid lamp (sure they must have upgraded that by now?)
I'm posting the second batch of driver kits at the moment and they are now all taken until I can locate an alternative source of switches.
A few people haven't included their address and unfortunately Paypal doesn't let me access this for gift payments so I've emailed them - please check your inbox!
I can still supply all the other parts of the kit except the switch so anyone who hasn't got their order in yet can still get most of their stuff. Unfortunately, the switches are now on backorder until December. The only immediate alternative I can spot would be to use the double-pole version of the switch. If I can't find anything else and there is call for more kits then I'll order some of those in.
hows about in Mcgyver form a bit of old innertube
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as the light head weighs 99 grams inc innertube
and grips like a good un
Have sent address to trout and bct
Forgot to mention butyl 🙄 😆 Notice that there no boot over the switch Mr trout?
Yes I know didnt have one to hand but the back of the switch is silly coned well so no water can get in the case .
couldnt make a boot from the innertube 😥
These any good from [url= http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2341 ][b]maplin[/b][/url] BCT?
Smudge, The drawing on the Maplin site is a bit useless but I suspect they aren't suitable. The boots I have are M6 thread, most switches seem to be 1/4 UNF (or UNC? can't remember for sure, but certainly 1/4").
Made a slight boob ordering the wrong hammond case from Maplins, even after Trouties case post..Ordered one with solid end caps, which is fine for the switch end but bloody stupid for the LED end..doh!
Anyone want to swap one??
Trout.
Hey !, what a team. That mount idea looks excellent. Even better that you're using [i]spare[/i] parts.
I reckon thats got to be the way to go.
Good work.
😉
EDIT: I'd go with the piece of inner tube for an O'ring.
Rubber O'rings are prohibatively expensive when bought in small numbers. ime.
I planned to bolt a piece of Alu tube to the bottom of the box and use a Deal Extreme Velcro torch holder.
The problem with the DX Velcro torch holders is they waggle around when the going gets rough, and you get a strange strobe effect on the trail (work fine on the helmet).
I have a Bastid light with the rubber O-ring style handlebar mount and it doesn't hold the light secure either, I might try a bit of Innertube.
I guess if you used a longer piece of alloy tube and two (in-line) velcro mounts then that should hold it pretty tight.
doh! sorry troutie. predictive text messing about.
nockmeister - Member
Made a slight boob ordering the wrong hammond case from Maplins, even after Trouties case post..Ordered one with solid end caps, which is fine for the switch end but bloody stupid for the LED end..doh!
Anyone want to swap one??
i think they all come with solid ends hence why trout uses lexan cut to shape in the destructions on page 1 or 2. I think he is sending out some lexan with hte kits but i cant remember.
No there are two types one with black plastic ends the ones we should be using have metal ends with the plastic already cut out.
cunning. no way of differentiating this on the website though!
That's true VH you just have to inquire, Ive got the 80X54x23 part number 1455C801 HTH
Guys there is a way to tell off the Maplin numbers, the numbers below are for the same sized box, with different finishes/plates
1455C801 = two piece blanking plate
1455C802 = one piece blanking plate
1455C802BK = Black, one piece blanking plate
Appreciate if someone would swap one end out with me, [b]there is no difference to the finish of the light!![/b] You could argue that the solid blanking plate is less likely to leak!!
Just cut a hole in the blank
I've just seen that with Top Cashback you can get 4-5% cashback from RapidOnline.
I have been using TCB for a couple of years and have a time limited joining offer on my account where new people who sign up will get £2.50 joining bonus after they have accumulated £5 of cashback.
Its free to join and you don't pay to use the service (unlike Quidco who take the first £5 of any cashback).
Chainreactioncycles & Wiggle also offer 4% cashback.
FWIW this signup bonus expires on 12th October, but its still worth joining anyway as every little helps.
http://www.topcashback.co.uk/ref/Jazid
Well Spotted, I'll have to be taking advantage of that as I generally spend a few hundred quid with Rapid monthly.
I only hope I have more success with Rapid on TCB than with my last two or three transactions as they have all failed to pay out...
Just recieved my little box of goodies from BCTech (thx) now to try and avoid stuffing up the assembly phase!
Got my box also, let the games begin 8)
Can I be the first to wire the driver the wrong way?
TCB have been fantastic - I have only ever had one transaction not track, and that was because I had AdBlock Plus for Firefox turned on which stopped the tracking cookie being saved to my PC (my fault).
Dumb ass question but does the driver need a heat sink?
PS BCT just double check the resistors as I've got a 50K one? brown red black(might be blue) blue yellow
Here is a virtual delivery cos I have no leds yet Parcel force has them somewhere .
this is what will be in the package from the Trout
of course there will be 2 leds too
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yes the driver will benefit from being cooled and that is what the small bit of Ali is for .
Just received my little package from BCT. Cheers BCT your a star!
Cant wait for the stuff from troutie now!
I also received my parcel from BCT today. Nice little package I have now waiting to go together.
Thanks all your help BCT
It's late, it's Friday
Which one 😉
1455C801 = two piece blanking plate
1455C802 = one piece blanking plate
1455C802BK = Black, one piece blanking plate
Has anybody made a wiring schematic for this yet?
There was a wiring schematic on one of the previous posts, I think it was a link to some photos on Flikr.