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Looks like the forks might be the least of the OPs worrys 🤤
Put a sticker over that crack it will be fine 😂
Oh dear, looks like the barrister will be writing another letter.
Yup. Something stronger than coffee may be needed ...
Which with my limited knowledge and experience I thought was a cracking deal
Oh dear, these words from OP could come back and haunt 🙁
Good luck munkiemagic
FML bloomin 'eck you guys are good!!! I am learning so much from all of you in such a short space of time.
Thankfully the line has cleaned off and under high magnification the weld surface area and black finish are smooth and unbroken and undisturbed, unlike my heat rate after reading that. But I have contacted the shop to get their opinion
Sometimes I'm really excited to see what this thread will throw up when I check back in and now sometimes I'm genuinely terrified.
Update regarding the fork: Both shops I've approached and Dave at RSF have all said, the same as you guys here, its not horrendous, it will perform fine and as expected.
Their response also includes that it will damage the seal over time, drawing more dirt in so will require more frequent servicing and monitoring than normal if the stanchion is left as is.
So I am officially relieved to know in my heart that I don't have a lemon fork (us noobs need time to learn these things unlike you experts who know everything already)
If however any of you find me with a downtube sticking through my gut with my head tube and fork gallavanting off into the bushes. Take pity and please call an ambulance
Bloody hell op!
Its not even my bike but when I saw that pic I thought "oh s***".
Anyway, glad to hear it isn't a crack and that the forks are serviceable. I shouldn't worry about increased fork service intervals. If you do a decent job with a repair I reckon the seals etc will be fine. Very easy to check and keep an eye on anyway.
@cynic-al saying its symmetrical.
Between hub endcap to hub endcap the tyre is in the centre if dished right. In that respect it is symmetrical
The distance a brake rotor sits from the centre of the hub/tyre, at that same distance on other side of the hub/tyre a cassete has a lot smaller height than a brake rotor. So if you put it cassette facing in more of the cassette slides under the downtube allowing the tyre to rest snug against the frame. thereby allowing frame and wheel to fit inside the box width.
If rotor facing in it will press up against the frame first by its braking track thereby the tyre can no longer sit snug up against the frame unless you bend the rotor to shove it in more, so the wheel and frame now occupy a larger width than previously
Indeed, most would take the rotor off tho (I can see that the shitshow of a shop wouldn't).
Name and shame yet?
Take pity and please call
an ambulancemy barrister
As there will always be someone else to blame
Good point. I'll wear the number around my neck for all to find.
The day nothing ever goes wrong in the world is the day we all stop apportioning blame.
Till then...
Just an update for anyone who has posted previously,
The shop have, as a goodwill gesture, offered me £120 as Dave@RSF has said he will do a stanchion replacement on the damper side at a cost of £120
Just waiting to hear back from Dave at RSF that he has the stanchion in and can do the work. It was supposed to be done the other week but he didn't have the right stanchion when I went down.
In fairness, that's a pretty good outcome with the shop. Took a while but still.👍
Happy days, you might actually get to ride it soon op.
ride it, fall off it and scratch it. get over it.
I’m wait for the OP having a fit when the stanchions changed and the colour is slightly different