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Sadly I am in Aus. I even got it next day delivery.500ml for a couple of dollars more than I have been paying for 50ml at LBS.
New importer for RnR. Phew.
Has anyone thought about using a motorbike style chain oiler? There're ones that just run off gravity, open the 'tap' at the beginning of the ride, close it at the end. It'll slowly drip onto the chain throughout (It'd need to be pointed at the chain as it goes through the rear mech, admittedly, unless you're 1x)
It's not a big weight commitment, and should be good over winter. I used chainsaw chain oil in mine on the motorbike, and it works fine. Continual dripping = no buildup of dirt on the chain. I know motorbike chains rotate much faster, but still...!
Scottoiler FS365 here too.
(and Bradley Wiggins used to use it on his winter bike! I say "used to use" because I don't know what he uses now).
The thing to remember is that water is a lubricatnt, so all you need to do after a ride is to stop rust.
I also use Scottoiler Ultimate Bike Solution on longer rides. ( It is different to FS365 - because it sticks to the chain a lot longer).
Papercut - you're idea would work really well with the FS365 (the original Scottoiler bike system worked to repeatedly apply the FS365).
I also know some extremely fast MTB racers who swear by the Scottoiler motorbike lubes (it's designed to fling) although Scottoiler were not impressed that it wasn't being continuously applied for that marginal gain.
Glad I bought 2 large bottles of rnr extreme last year, I was struggling to get it then. Hope its available again soon for you folks that have run out and want it
I have a fair bit of rock n roll blue and gold if anyone I desperate,am near Sheffield as postage may be a faff
1 - Don't use wet lube in the mud. I go so far to say generally don't use wet lube. There's plenty of evidence and articles suggesting dry lube is fine in the wet and in fact the "dry" generally means the consistency of the lube not its use. Wet will just suck in all the crud and wreck everything. If your riding is purely just biblical wet and no mud/sand/grit/grime then maybe there's a case for it, although you've still got to degrease the thing to swap to a dry lube.
2 - Use Squirt 😉
It will look like there's nothing on the chain, but it's lubed where it counts (inside) and after a mud ride, rinse, shiny chain and still lubed.
+ another for Scotoiler fs365. I have almost immaculate gears and chain, get ages out of chains and casettes. After all if its good enough for a motorbike, spinning faster with more torque and likely in more wed conditions its good enough for my mtb)
I have tried my fave dry lube in the wet, and it did get pretty noisy after a while. One would assume noisy means unlubricated.
I use Squirt all year round and reckon it's pretty good. Better than Viking lube which I found too wet and easily washed off. If it's mega grim like use Finish Line wet lube but it needs to be minging. Really minging.
Proper lubes are working inside the chain. What most people chuck on the chain just sits on the surface and gets washed off, but the bit that counts is the rollers inside. That's why wax lubes work well, but better still is the factory lube which a lot of people degrease before fitting the chain. It's the best lube it will ever have, why waste it? !
3 Wet weeks in the peaks plus one very very wet snowdon ride, been washing bike as well.
Still on and chain is still clean with zero rusting.
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It's seriously good stuff.
Just had the dispatch notice for my order of RnR Extreme from The Cycle Clinic! Good timing as well, as I'm down to my last 10ml of my previous batch.