Don't know if you have heard about your recall date but I've been told the 4th of November for the 2spring recall, LBS wants it in the 1st so they can strip it and send it off.
Cheers, Setve
Yeah - November is what Cannondale and TFT are saying too.
Repaired seatpost back on bike. They replaced the air cartridge. It pops up to a hard stop with the tap of a button and locks tightly. It's like a new post. Very happy. My XT seat post remote works a treat too - nice smooth easy action and easy to reach.
Waiting for new chain, and have also ordered a 13mm drive side BB spacer to replace the 15.46 spacer, and a pack of 1mm spacers for the other side, so I can correct my chain line. Nearly done. 😀
Hi crazymac my rear brake has always been pants, when I say pants my lever almost reaches the handlebars but if I press the brake in quick succession the amount the lever will pull is reduced. I have been to a bike shop and they bled the brake but hasn't really changed and gave me some story of the fluid has to travel further I know this is useless info because I have a dh bike that is super responsive so I'm guessing there may be a very small leak somewhere possibly. Is it worth getting a xt set up or just upgrade the rear to a bigger rotor and hope it will increase braking quality
Hi crazymac my rear brake has always been pants, when I say pants my lever almost reaches the handlebars but if I press the brake in quick succession the amount the lever will pull is reduced. I have been to a bike shop and they bled the brake but hasn't really changed and gave me some story of the fluid has to travel further I know this is useless info because I have a dh bike that is super responsive so I'm guessing there may be a very small leak somewhere possibly. Is it worth getting a xt set up or just upgrade the rear to a bigger rotor and hope it will increase braking quality
My XT rear (M785) is the same, brake bleed and pad replace still shite...pretty much to the handle but they do work.....
Cheers, Steve
Bike shops are terrible in my experience. It sounds like air in the system as that would get slightly better with repeated presses. It's also possible you have to much free stroke. If there is to much space between the brake pad and disk. This is adjustable at the lever on xt but we need to remove the wheel and pull the lever slowly until the gap is smaller. Then check with the wheel back on. If you go to far you can push them out again with a brake block or wide screwdriver
Definitely try bleeding the brakes yourself. It's pretty easy. Also, the wheel tricks to improve things, I did that to my XT front as it had way more lever pull than my mates SLX. Sound like they need bled though. Get one of the screw cups, and screw it onto the bleed cap on your lever whilst on the bars. Make sure lever is horizontal. Half fill the cup. Repeated taps on the lever will likely produce bubbles. Once you get no more, cable tie the lever fully pulled and leave for a couple hours then repeat the tapping trick. Usually clears any bubbles.
I had a similar issue to you on my Trigger that turned out to be a leaking caliper. Contaminated my rear brake pads and meant no matter how hard I pulled, rear would not lock. Changed pads and it went away for one ride. I sent it back to Pauls for replacement and cleaned my discs. Problem gone.
Nearly done. New chain on and everything working well (except for the chainline being a little off, resulting in backpedalling into a lower chain ring from the top couple of rings, and a little chain noise). Waiting on Evans sending me the 13mm drive side crank spacer.
At some point I need to move that gear cable across and through the lefty to clean it up a bit, and I should really shorten the remote cable from the XT trigger to the seatpost an inch or two to get rid of the bunching.
Sometimes I think that saddle looks really high and I should have gone XL, but it feels great to ride so I just assume it's the rather low sloping top tube making it look super high, and probably the angle of the picture.
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Well, after nearly 3 weeks in the shop for the air spring update my bike has been reassembled and am picking it up on Friday. The work hasn't been done yet, and it'll be going back to the shop when the parts are available. Bit of a farce really!
At least you get to ride it for the next month!
True. I'm really looking forward to it.
Well the saddle was actually a bit high. Took it for a quick spin and dropped it an inch. My superstar pedals have been clicking again so I removed the grease cap on one and regreased it. Tried the other which was one that had taken a knock when I came off the other month. In doing so, the thread stripped on the cap and the spindle seized. 😡
Now more money going on new pedals. Gah!
I don't know why I thought the carbons were spec'd with a 60mm stem - sure I read it someplace. Measured mine today and it's 80mm right enough, so I am now thinking I want to try rascal's advice of a 50mm stem!
I believe the mediums came with 60mm stem and 80mm for large +. Mine is definitely 60mm
edit. Erm, what....?!
Spent enough this month I think! Though the straitlines are on [url= http://www.straitlinecomponents.com/collections/clearance-2/products/blow-out-stems?variant=18778073094 ]sale right now![/url]
Is the trigger 4 a straight 1.5 steerer?
Yes it is a straight 1.5 steerer.
I'm thinking a 50mm stem is a tad short for the large trigger, otherwise, I'd order a Straitline. If anyone upgrades their medium and has a 60mm Cannondale stem up for grabs, cheap, I might be interested. 😀
I tried a 50mm stem on the Large, it just felt too cramped and twitchy, not great on the climbs either. Found a 65mm Easton Havoc on Gumtree, brand new boxed local to me... for £10. The 65mm feels perfect, just less of a stretch than the 80mm.
I have a line on the Havoc too - but it's Orange. Not sure that works on a red/black bike.
Quick heads up for any lefty owners
Just sent mine in for the upgrade, to tuned phoned me saying the shaft is worn because I've not cleaned the lower stanchions after every ride and dirt has got under the seal
Needs new lower shaft, which they are doing on warranty.
I'll start cleaning from now on , expensive repair outside warranty apparently
I try to remember to at least wipe the stanchion off and then run oil around the seal and depress the fork after every ride, I hope that covers it....
Cheers, Steve
Thabka for the heads up. I clean mine most rides, but I thought an advantage of the upside down fork was that it was harder for dirt to find its way into the seals...
Mine gets hosed down after every ride, though I don't oil the fork leg. Should I? With what?
edit: found a 60mm Cannondale stem online to try vs my 80mm, see which I like better.
Right, so I've just about had it now with Cannondale and their stupid quirks and random specifications.
So I've had a new set of wheels built. Using a Supermax compatible hub. Is it compatible with my Supermax lefty? Is it... Grr.
[url= https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fjyX4T2oI3QWBnkmpaYk3dir4uV9U9Y0rw/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/13BakFNKqsXPKehDwvXlsMtFTm_8_PEi_Hg/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gc89pBbFZadAWHGQ9RdH77eirhCoZW1n2Q/view?usp=sharing ]Photos[/url]
See the alignment photo - hub is simply too big, thus confirming it actually needs a standard hub and not the supermax one - despite defintiely being a supermax fork! How stupid is that.
So now I have to get wheel rebuilt on to a new hub. Total additional cost - £100 at least.
Seriously Cannondale. Not impressed.
According to the manual you need a different brake adapter for the Supermax hub. Does it not fit at all or is it causing caliper alignment issues?
@astormatt How are the cobalt 3 wheels? Toying with getting a pair as an upgrade to the crossroc.
Brake alignment issues mostly but also doesn't seem to fit all the way on to the stub axle. The locking bolt is then too short.
Supermax fork = Supermax hub? Yes? Or not Cannondale...?
Look at page 5 of the Supermax manual.
This thread here us where I'd ask the Q.
http://forums.mtbr.com/cannondale/official-lefty-thread-tech-mechanical-etc-572616-14.html
How are you getting on with this ssmith? I've done some more digging and the Supermax hub is only available in 32 hole. The stock Mavic wheels are 24 hole, therefore the stock setup is running a standard Lefty Hybrid hub and brake adaptor.
I ask because I am planning to order some wheels in a couple of weeks. I'm not sure what the benefit of the Supermax hub is, but to use it, at the very least, we need a different brake adaptor. I don't suppose your hub is fowling the adaptor and preventing it from going on?
I'm inclined to have mine built up on a Lefty Hybrid hub since that's what we have already, albeit I'll use a 32 hole variant. However, if a Supermax hub can be used simply by swapping out the brake adaptor then that's a tempting additional expense.
edit: did you screw the bolt all the way through into the hub before mounting the wheel? You need to make sure it is all the way in, then it will spin freely in place, then mate to the spindle and let it pull it on - I noticed in one of your pictures that the bold was not already in there?
Here's mine, Carbon 2.
[b]Changes from stock:[/b]
Front hub: Cannondale branded
Rear hub: DT Swiss 350 w/ 54t ratchet
Rims: Mercury X1 carbon hookless, tubeless
Tires: Hans Dampf Snakeskin 2.35 front, Nobby Nic Snakeskin 2.35 rear
Rear brake: 203mm RT86
Planned: 160mm lefty conversion at service. Maybe some vinyl on the strut.
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@ ssmith1979 why didn't you test fit the hub before building the whole wheel? Would have taken 5 minutes at most.
On oiling the stut after each ride, hell I hardly ever wash the thing. I read the lefty manual, it isn't mentioned there. The only mention they have of oil is for it to be lubricated every 100 hours by the dealer as part of their service.
I did however learn about the manual reset. It's probably about time for that.
JNM1- Why have you fitted a bigger rotor to the rear? Do you not find it has messed up the balance when braking?
Seems odd as front brakes on all car, motorbikes, mtbs are bigger than the rear
Jnm
Are you putting 160mm travel on the trigger? Have you any experience about how it will handle?
@zerolight, wheels have been great so far. Bearings are still going strong, no rim dings and are as still as true as when they arrived.
I havent ridden the larger brake yet, just put on yesterday. I was going to do 180 originally but the post has been backordered for too long so just did 203.
Almost all the trails I ride are steep downhill. I will do a 13 mile ride and get 3,000 feet of climb with no flats. That means I get 3,000 feet of down over half that at 6.5 miles, average of ~9% gradient but 15-25% is not at all uncommon. Yesterday I went somewhere 'flatter' and it was 2,500 feet in slightly more distance. While the front has a ton of stop power I can't be using it too much unless I want to go OTB. I am on the rear a lot coming down these things, more surface is just more better. It won't hurt.
Jnm1 - did you go with a Supermax hub or a regular Lefty hub? If you went Supermax, did you have to do anything other than swap out the brake adaptor?
thanks astormatt - debating between the Cobalt 3s or getting a custom build around Stans Arch Mk3.
Took mine out for a nice 35k loop today.
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@zerolight, used the lefty supermax hub, no brake adaptor or anything needed, direct fit with everything.
KH119/28
@jnm1 - man this gets more and more confusing. The Supermax manual suggests that there's only 28H in regular Lefty rather than Supermax. But that part is clearly Supermax. Then there's ssmith who believes he has a Supermax hub but it doesn't fit his Supermax. On top of that, the Cobalt 3s that astormatt is using appear to use a regular Lefty hub, which would mean a brake adaptor would be required if we were all running Supermax hubs by default. What a headache. If I want to order a set of wheels it feels like a gamble.
Buy it from cannondale experts, very good service and advice. Tell them which year and model they have and they will pick out the right hub for you.
I wouldnt look at manuals, they can be outdated for this kind of thing. As for ssmith not sure, it's possible the first iteration of supermax used the older post? AFAIK it's the post you're trying to match not what the sticker on the strut says. If he's got an older post, that's what he needs to fit. Just guessing though, but since the SMAX is the biggest if the SMAX hub was too big that's really the only way that'd happen.
