Thanks JNM.
@astormatt - can you double check the width of your Lefty hub on the Cobalts, centre to centre of the two spoke flanges please? It looks like the Supermax is 60mm and the regular Lefty is 50mm. My Trigger C2 has 60mm so I am assuming I am running Supermax. There's zero info on the Cobalts anywhere. Thanks.
jnm1 - we all have 2015 triggers here - ssmith has the team. All Supermax forks, rev 1 and 2, are supposed to take both the Lefty and Supermax hub. Brake adapter aside. So it's kinda confusing. I'm assuming, like me, ssmith wanted to get a set of wheels built up online hence not trying the hub first. But it should fit anyway which is really confusing.
Jnm. I've had the same problem with my rear brake overheating on long steep loose descents. My rear brake cooks and I end up using two fingers on it and getting arm pump. Going to a larger rotor would be the ideal fix. I've felt this problem equally bad on pads with fins and without. Keep us informed when you go 160mm. All my mates have 160 and 170 bikes so I'm considering a bigger fork.
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I love the steeps
I am still confused by how it is too large, unless the post itself is a smaller version.
Since this thread is trigger happy, here's mine @ Northstar. Wife rented a bike just to come along with me and the kiddo, who is 4.5 years old here. He did great on Easy Rider twice but didn't like Tryumph, too much braking for him on that long a descent.
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After riding with them I went and did Gypsy, Flameout, then Big Trees to Flameout.
Also re: 203mm rear, here's what I am dealing with and what I mean by up or down, no flat. This is Skeggs for any NorCal riders.
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That looks like an awesome day out. My 3 year old is a wee daredevil on his balance bike. He has no interest in his islabike 14 though. He has only tried it once in 5 months. Hopefully he will get some use before he grows out of it.
His is a CNoc 16
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Semenuk, Zink, Rheeder, all Athertons, Aggy, Tyler and Cam McCaul, etc are his heros. He'll watch Rampage and Crankworx or racing if he has the chance. But that's another thread
@ssmith, this may be your issue
In this pic which I didnt see cause the link wasnt working right, but I opened by c/p it looks like you don't have the bolt inside the little external flange.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fjyX4T2oI3QWBnkmpaYk3dir4uV9U9Y0rw/view
Unscrew that outer ring cap thing, put the bolt inside, put the cap back on. I had that brain fart the first time I tried the hub and was like wtf it doesnt fit right.
jnm1 - Member
His is a CNoc 16
I got an email from Islabikes once warning me that the Cnoc 16 was not for jumping.
Yeah but he's going like a foot off the ground at best, he's not even 5 yet
@jnm1 - interesting, thanks - I'll check that and confirm tonight. If you are right (as I expect you are) it might just be that a change of brake adapter is required. Will confirm later.
I didn't trial fit the hub because I double checked it was the correct part with CSG (UK distributor for Cannondale!) before ordering from my local cannondale dealer. With hindsight, that was an error!
@Zero - I have had a handbuilt set of wheels built up around the Stans Flow MK3. DT350 hub on rear. Not ridden yet but nice looking and dead solid. When I have a front wheel I'll let you know!
@ssmith - I'm not even sure you need to change the adaptor. The more I look at the trigger setup, the more I think it's running a Supermax hub, albeit made by Mavic, with the correct adaptor on there.
Success! Well partial at least.
Now I am not being a numpty with the retaining bolt the hub fits the spindle and spins freely.
The spokes do however foul the brake caliper and it is easy to see that thr disc is out of alignment by at least 5mm, possibly more.
So hopefully all i need now is the correct brake adapter! Any ideas? (Not googled yet).
And fyi, if you do end up with the cannondale hub the retaining cap for the bolt is removed with a shimano cassette removal tool. After much swearing with pin pliers!
And so according to [url= https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=141754;menu=1000,2,15,1K17;page=124 ]this[/url] the correct brake adapter is a KH130 available from UK [url= http://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/components-c9/disc-brakes-c58/cannondale-supermax-27-5-brake-adaptor-p16171 ]here[/url].
Arriving soon and will report back. Hopefully nearly sorted all thanks to this thread. Thank you.
This thread delivers again! Glad it's sorted. Just for info my mavic crossmax xl's are the supermax fitting and fitted my 2015 Trigger Carbon 2 perfectly, no need to change adaptors or anything.
I was able to do mine without the tool, didn't give me any issues.
Ashy, out of interest how are you defining "supermax fitting"?
According to Mavic or another means?
Ssmith - looking again at your photos, you have a different brake adaptor than I do. I think the cheaper Mavic wheels on the Trigger C2 are of the Supermax variety but those on the Team are regular Lefty hubs. Hence JNM1 AND Ashy being able to drop on Supermax wheels without the adaptor, you needing the adaptor, and astormatt needing no adaptor for the regular Lefty Cobalts. Here's my bike, similar perspective, looks like a different adapter. Not to mention that the hub on mine is right up close to the fork like your new supermax.
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I believe my stock adaptor for the front is KH130
ssmith - make sure you put that retaining outer cap back on with some blue locktite. It's only supposed to be tightened a little, not cranked up. Mine fell off last month - fortunately on a pathway leading to the trails so I heard it ding on the ground and found it. I think it must have loosened when I removed the wheel to get it in the back of a mates car. As you say, nips up with a cassette tool.
ssmith - Looking forward to your thoughts on the Flows once you get going. They are tempting over the Arch, but I suspect they are too much wheel for my uses, and with the Arch I can re-use my 2.25/2.35 Wild Grip'R for now. Still, I could go Flow and move the 2.35 to the rear and buy a new front. 😯
Got my 60mm Cannondale stem through from R2 today to give my Large the same steering feel as the Medium. I was worried it would shorten the feel of the bike, but it doesn't at all. I think it's taken some weight off my hands which is nice, and it feels better on tight turns.
My Fire-Eye PJ-ACR flat pedals came over the weekend too, which replaced my borked Superstar Nano X. They feel and look very nice and worked great over the weekends big cycle.
Zero - your theory seems entirely plausible. Way to be certain is that there is some writing on the edge of the brake adapter. I'll get a picture of mine and post it tonight - be interesting to see yours and JHM's too as is difficult to tell from the photo you have posted.
For info - I have my 2.35 Mountain Kings inflated on the rear - and to be honest they are not discernably wider than when they were on the 22mm Mavic rims. I wouldn't be too concerned about running the 2.25 on there.
And see your point on Flow vs. Arch. Thing that sold it to me was that the MK3 is only 19g heavier, but a whole lot stronger!
I've gt an unused 180 mm disc supermax brake adaptor spare if you need to try /buy
650b
Ssmith. The bracket type is printed on the inside of the bracket. Here's mine.
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Zero: Yep - that would appear to be a KH130 Supermax to Supermax adapter. Mine is different, proving your theory that the Crossmax SLR's that come on the team were a standard lefty hub, not a supermax one.
If I knew how to post pictures I'd post a copy of the table sent by CSG that confirms various compatibility and adapters. Email in profile if you'd like me to send it to you.
Thanks for posting the pic.
@ Zero.That's exactly the same as the one on my Carbon 2. God knows why they thought it wise to mix and match across the model range. Bonkers.
Does anyone else find the stone guard rubs on the fork when it compresses?
Yep, a little bit. I found pulling more brake line through the cable tie on the guard ( so between the caliper and the cable tie) helped to hold it away from the strut leg. There looks to be a piece of material designed as a slider there anyway though?
Yes there is but seems it would be easier to make the guard a little wider.
My guard doesn't run at all. Try taking the caliper off, flipping it 360, and putting it back on. Creates a bow in the cable that pushes it clear of the rotor and it's not so tight against the guard either.
So I called my shop on the spring recall/upgrade that I just heard about. They don't handle it since there's a huge service center close enough by. They said that the center usually will do auxillary work like rebuild it in 160mm guise. So CDale pays for the tear down and new spring, I pay for whatever else is required to put it back as a 160mm shock. Waiting for the shop to get back to me but hopeful I can get out of this for cheap.
$45 to extend it to 160mm while they do the recall. Done. Will probably drop it at the shop after Saturday's ride.
No risk to the frame from the leverage of a longer fork? I've only ever bottomed out my Lefty when the bearings have needed a reset, which I now do monthly to keep it tip top. Your son gets more air than I do though!
Cant see that being a big deal, it supposedly changes it 1*.
I should learn how to do that reset. I have watched videos but it still skeeves me out opening the fork myself.
You don't need to open a Supermax to reset the bearings.
It may not be a full tear down but anytime the parts start being disassembled I take it to the shop. Brake pads and cassettes are as involved as I get, I'm expected to do something boneheaded. I once forgot to tighten the bolts on the stem on my road bike after dropping a spacer. That was fun.
Let all the air out of the fork and fully compress it. . Lift the bars and then bounce the front wheel down to the ground pushing down through the bars. Repeat until the travel indicator is 20mm (I think, check manual) from the bottom of the shaft. Re-inflate fork. You need to do it every half dozen or so rides.
Interesting, the ones I saw had a removal of the switch work and upper part of the strut. Then I found this, why are they removing the core too, is that necessary?
Or are they doing it to make it easier to hold the valve open
Ok well I just did it with a buddy's help. Definitely got it set a lot lower and it definitely feels a whole lot smoother now.
You had to dismantle the switch on earlier versions. The Supermax is a different beast entirely and was redesigned this way. See page 15 of the manual.
Glad you got it sorted. I found mine needed done once a month. I asked TFTuned if this was a fault as the manual says every 50 hours. They send every half dozen or so rides was about normal. Price to pay for sensitivity.
