I wouldn't bother adding links. Your not going to smash down anything on the big ring?
I know. Just seems better safe than sorry.
I will have a look in my Spares box. I might have a few brand new 10 speed links that I can post to you.
Ooh. That would be very nice Ashy! I'll fire you an email just in case.
Carbon Trigger owners - especially Team - could really do with some help please. Long story short but I have suspected for some time that the fork on my Team is different.
The recent recall notice [url= http://www.cannondale.com/en/Europe/mandatory-service-bulletin.aspx ]here[/url] and also TF TUNED when the work was done confirmed I have a Supermax 1.0
And yet the product catalogue [url= https://issuu.com/cannondale_europe/docs/014_can_catalog_2015_en ]here[/url] confirms I should have a Supermax 2.0
So... help! What have other carbon owners, particularly Team got on theirs? The quick way to tell is if you have a 3mm or 6mm flange to the locknut at the base of the fork. 1.0 is 3mm, 2.0 is 6mm.
And then the question is what to do? What can I do? What is the difference between a 1.0 and a 2.0?
Any assistance from owners gratefully received. Thanks.
What year is your team?
Sorry should have said - it is 2015. Pauls Cycles special bought in Jan 2016.
Have you got a pic of your forks and the locknut?
Pics [url= https://goo.gl/photos/6iwSpJRqEh14r1D97 ]here[/url] I hope.
Definitely a 3mm locknut which according to the service bulletin makes it a Supermax 1.0. TF TUNED also said same thing when it went back for the work. I think the graphics are also slightly different to some others.
So what have others got?
Started a new thread on what the difference between the 1.0 and 2.0 might be but no conclusions yet.
Thanks all for your help.
Smith
Here's what my 2 looks like.
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Mine seems to be 3mm as well but it looks just like the forks on all the review bikes.
Looking at the Supermax vs Supermax 2 manual on Cannondale site, the 1 Lefty seems to be a 29er fork with 90 to 130mm of travel. I suspect therefore that the 3mm vs 6mm check is probably not accurate. I can't see them decaling up and older model 29er fork and sticking it on 27.5. More likely they switched back to the 3mm flange head.
Regardless, the 1.0 is 130mm and the 2.0 is 140mm. If you can manual reset your lefty to the 20mm suggestion that would be 140mm travel. On the 1.0 the reset was to 35mm and gave 130mm travel.
Seems odd that Cannondale themselves would issue an identification tool that is wrong?
That said, if the only difference between the 1.0 and the 2.0 is 29" vs. 27.5 not really an issue? But mine is definitely a 27.5 so that theory doesn't seem to hang together either.
Zero - on the basis of the identification guide yours too would appear to be a 1.0! Hmm...
Just spoken to TFTuned - the 2.0 is a rolling revision to the 1.0. The main difference is a redesigned bottom cap - with a 3mm deeper flange, as confirmed by service bulletin. Other than that - no major differences in design, spec or performance.
In any case, the air spring replacement work has the effect of bringing both the 1.0 and 2.0 exactly in line with each other in terms of internals - so no difference in performance at all.
The wonderful world of Cannondale...!
Good news Smith. I'm still waiting on a slot to get mine booked in. Also need to get my seatpost back so I can ride it over to Alpine Bikes.
[i]edit: Just spoke to Jungle, it's getting packed up to come back with a new air cartridge inside. Be here by Tuesday. Roadbike this weekend then.[/i]
Speaking of bearing resets - I had to do mine again today. That's like every 2nd month. As my Trigger shares time with my road bike, it's definitely not 50 hours of riding. Hopefully TFT can take a look at that whilst they are doing the 2spring.
I had the needle bearings in mine replaced by TFTuned to try and correct the fact that I had to do reset after every ride. Despite them fitting different spec bearings (the graduation is 0.01mm!) it is still not perfect - now resetting about every two/three rides.
Talking to TFTuned it seems to be an accepted Lefty 'feature'. Not sure I like it, but hey.
As an aside - was amazed to find that there is 35g difference between my lefty, and a 2017 Fox 34 fork with 210mm steerer. 35g! So much for superlight lefty vs. conventional forks! Oh well. Still looks cool..
I do love the look of the Lefty much more than a regular fork. In a few years when I change bikes again, I'll be disappointed to be back to a conventional look.
It's easy enough to do the reset I suppose, and keeps the air pressure right too. Need to remember to do that at the same time as checking my tubeless goop.
I'm still not convinced by the rolling revision of 1.0 to 2.0.
The 2.0 was announced at the same time as the 27.5 bikes and prior to that it was a shorter travel 26/29 fork. I'm more inclined to believe that the 6mm flange was a rolling revision from a 3mm flange, but both on the 2.0, rather than the 1.0 and 2.0 being the same. Pretty sure we both have the 2.0. I don't suppose it really matters.
Either way, with TFT telling you that the internals are exactly the same as the very latest iteration of the 2.0 coming off the factory, it is all moot.
edit: what fork pressure do you run. I find if I run at the recommended pressure of around 70psi I get 20mm sag and a stiff fork. I run it at around 60psi to get close to 40mm sag (in fact for a while I was running it at 50psi). I guess the softer it is, the quicker the bearings will drift due to a more active suspension.
To be clear - they didn't say the revisions brought it in line with latest coming out of factory - just that after the work the internals of the 1.0. and 2.0 would be identical.
I'm not sure if there has been a revision since the Supermax 2.0 (with updated air spring) so it could well be that as you say - the effect is bringing it up to date with current factory models.
The world of Cannondale has been an education to me!
Latest from my dealer. The 2spring upgrade is being carried out by Cannondale directly. TFT will only be involved of you are paying and sending fork in for a service. That's a little odd. And more frustrating, Cannondale don't have the parts yet but TFT do.
oh FFS.what a total shower.
So I called TFT.
He has plenty of kits for the 2.0. He says the 1.0 kits won't be in until November some time. He says I definitely have a 1.0 Supermax, and as per ssmith, the main change is the flange at the bottom.
Dealer still says it's to go to Cannondale. Only to TFT if you want a Service. I'm pushing them to clarify that.
TFT also said the bearing drift every few rides is totally normal. He can put in heavier gauge bearings to slow the drift but the for will also feel stiffer and less supple. Don't fancy that.
Ashy, you might want to find out what your dealer is doing with yours, and if they still have it, what your flange nut size is. If, like ours, its 3mm, nothing will be happening to it until November!
I'd say that was b@llocks based on my experience.
I just whipped the fork off and sent it to TFT direct.
Just give TFT a call - they'll sort you out.
How did you get yours off? I presume you only paid the shipping?
Might be worth asking TFT if they will do a partial upgrade for you.
What they did for me (and may well be willing to do for you) is change the air spring - but not the lower elastomer - for which they don't have the kit. The lower elastomer will then be done when it goes for a service in a few months time.
Given the main upgrade is the air spring, I was happy with this...
I guess I don't have any real issue with my Lefty as it is, so I can wait until November. Just read up on removing the Supermax - Ernie tool and a mallet. Shame the Ernie tool is £45!
Extraction of lefty is a little bit of a tricky job. Essentially it is undo all bolts, remove stem, and then whack the steerer tube with a rubber mallet until it comes out. The tricky bit is getting it past the second contact point when the top of the steerer is inside the headtube - but easily resolved using some poly drainpipe or similar.
And yes, I just sent it back and paid for return courier - which TFT arrange. Dead simple...
Yes I'm going to chase up the shop. This is turning into a bit of a farce.
Thanks ssmith. I might have a go myself in November. How tough was it to get it back on again?
Getting back in is much easier - just requires tapping the steerer back in from underneath until it is seated, then tightening everything up.
R.e your earlier post I wouldn't bother with the £45 removal tool - I have done it twice now without need it...
Yeah, I read your comments on a rubber mallet and some plastic drain pipe. I'll grab some next month from B&Q - saves me cycling the bike into Glasgow in wintery November and letting someone else take a mallet to my carbon frame. Might as well break it myself. 😀
Alpine called me again having spoken to Cannondale again. So it's definitely this:
- is there a problem with your fork that requires a service under warranty, or you are wanting to pay for a service anyway - send it to TFT and they will do the upgrade at the same time
- is your fork otherwise fine, then the dealer will send it to Cannondale who will carry out the upgrade themselves through UK distributor CSG
Since I am suggesting I might have an issue with the needle bearing drift, I can send it to TFT for a warranty check and upgrade. I'll just strip it off myself, ssmith style, I think.
Both CSG and TFT confirm there is no stock of 1.0 upgrade kits until November. CSG don't have 2.0 kits either, though TFT do.
Sounds like things have tightened up in the last few days then - I only had mine back from TFT on Monday and I didn't pay for (or want!) a service. Oh well..
Ah, but yours went in with a warranty issue on your needle pins, so that's a free repair and upgrade. 😀
No - needle bearings was a previous trip to TFT - this time was recall only!
Ooh. Well I will just go direct there. Get it done right! Thanks.
So I was bored today and my bikes still in bits waiting on the dropper post coming back. So I decided to hack the front XT shifter up that I removed last week going 1x10. I've converted the shifter into a dropper remote. Wasn't straight forward. Certainly the only guide I saw was for an older shifter and that was totally different. I nearly broke it but I got there in the end.
There two little metal hooks thingies. Silver things. I removed the one closes to the cable end. I flipped the other one around as you need it to get full cable pull but don't want it to latch. There was a little spring holding that one in place that just wouldn't catch again so I repurposed a very tiny screw from the assembly and screwed it into the spring hole to keep the hook from pivoting out of position. Reassembled and it seems to work. Just need the post to try properly.
Chopped of the pull trigger.
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HI All,
I probably sound really dim but just after a bit of guidance.
I want to convert the bike to 1x10 - so what I have to do is buy a 32T ring which fits and replace the old ring with the new ring and obviously remove the derailleur/shifter etc? Do I not need a chain tensioner?
Thanks
Max
Max. I just did mine.
At a minimum you need to do what you say. Make sure it's a wide narrow ring and you probably won't need a chain guide. Is it a csrbon or alloy model? If carbon you can get a nice direct mount gxp 32t oval from works components and ditch the spider on your cranks. Otherwise you can get a regular ring from them to put on there in place of the existing outer.
However you will want an 11-42 or 11-40 cassette if you do any sort of climbing I'd imagine. I'd recommend the Sunrace MX3. I got a black 11-42 this week from thecycleclinic who were cheaper than everyone else.
If you put a larger cassette on, you may need a new chain too. I did, mine is too short.
Zero,
Thanks for replying. Mine is an Alluminium Trigger 4, I was looking at a Blackspire Snaggletooth Narrow Wide 32t? So you are saying mount this on the same place where the third ring is?
Okay that Sunrace sounds a good option the price doesn't look too bad too.
Thanks,
Max
Oh you have a triple ring? Best wait on one of the experts to chime in. I'd imagine on a triple you want it on the middle but not sure.
Trigger 4 is a 96bcd. You need to remove the crank to get the small ring off. You just mount the new ring in place of the old middle
Itching to get out on my Trigger when new chain and repaired seat post turn up. It's all cleaned and shiny in the garage now!
OK OK I give in. Now I need a chain device. Today I was half way down a hill when I dropped my chain. I was flying and didn't want to stop. So I put my right foot forward for a as the chain was hanging onto the pedal. This was to put a bit of tension on it and try to stop it going into my wheels. I still got a PB and I'd forgotten to put my clutch on again. The next downhill I made sure the clutch was on but I was getting loads of slap then dropped the chain. I put it back on and dropped again. I think my clutch needs tightening.
What are my options? I think I want a direct mount as anything around my crank will make my already poor chain line worse.
I'm also struggling to get onto the bottom gear. I think my spring might be getting weak or cable friction. It goes down when I wind my tensioner off but then won't go back up.
I've got a trigger 4 with 180mm rotor front 160mm back. Is it easy enough to do to convert the rear to 180mm also? Or is this a bad idea? Currently have slx brakes but the rear is pretty pants so was gonna upgrade to xt and slightly larger rotor to hope for better braking. Cheers
A 180 rear would be a good upgrade and would need an adaptor to increase the added height. No point upgrading to xt or xtr as they have the same power but reduced weight and more features bike bite point adjustment.
My rear locks up no bother with just a single finger. Do you mean your overheating them and getting brake fade? Larger rotors would help cooling and increase power.
My rear has only been crap when it leaked fluid on your the pads. Otherwise it locks easily.
