Got a sram X9 10 speed cassette on a set of Cobalt wheels, ad under heavy power the small ring (he separate one) spins... cassette was fitted by LBS so i'm a bit perplexed as to why its slipping.
Help would be much appreciated.
is it not the chain slipping on the sprocket?
is it a new chain?
nah new cassete, new sprocket... when I Give it some power and look down, I can see it move maybe a tooth worth then stop slipping.
any spacers behind the cassette?
is it torqued up tight?
extra spacer?
Something's stopping it engaging with the spline.
thing is though if the ring was sprocket was clear of the splines i dont reckon you would get the lock ring on anyway. 😕 hard to say without a butchers at it.
take it off and have a look?
there is a small nylon spacer between the cassette and freehub body - as supplied with the wheels, and told to fit by distributor. but how would that affect the small sprocket ?
I've never had a lock ring relax its torque before... seems tight enough although I've not measured it with a torque wrench.
BR : that's the plan tomorrow afternoon, or Friday when I get 5 mins to pop down to the LBS.
Can't the LBS fix it? If you paid them to fit it, it should work.
I've had issues before where the chain is riding on the lock ring which is stopping the chain from dropping right down into the teeth of the cassette.
It could be this problem...
The lock rings come in different sizes for different amounts of teeth on the smallest cog, I'd just look and see if this could be the issue.
ah good call pepper that could be it for sure!
cheer for all the super quick replys everyone
The lock ring is he one that came with the cassette, which came on the bike (Canyon) I just upgraded the wheels, so swapped it all over... bike was 2 rides old when I swapped the wheels out. so I doub't its the lock ring suggestion above.
LBS will DEFINATLY be getting a visit !
Is there a quick link fitted to the chain?
If it's a Connex link then it can cause skipping on the smallest sprocket (link touches the lockring) - if the link is fitted upside down.
Could have been over tightened then I suppose?
Is there a quick link fitted to the chain?
If it's a Connex link then it can cause skipping on the smallest sprocket (link touches the lockring) - if the link is fitted upside down.
Another good call there!
Had a small ring snap once so it slipped, also remove the spacer from the hub, when i had one it stopped the new shimano cassette fitting and tightening up tight, as a guide, wheel bike to a wall and put front wheel at 90 degrees to wall eg facing it, put chain on small sprocket and push gently down on pedal, and look what happens, or get a mate to press down while you look
PePPer: that would suggest that the hub would now be knackered, right ?
If you search there is talk of issues with CB wheels and sram cassettes.
SRAM chain with SRAM split link.
I've poped a paint mark on the small sprocket & next one up... and guess what the paint marked sprocket has moved away from the second sprocket - slipping clockwise.
LBS are gonna get a piece of my mind if they have over tightened and junked my hub!
Rather than take it to the LBS, try to work out why its not working correctly, and then learn how to fix it - otherwise one day you'll have a long, long walk caused by a simple 'problem'.
Munro': any links ?
So it's the actual last sprocket not located on the splines of the freehub correctly, this won't be from over tightening.
It could be the freehub isn't deep enough to cope with the SRAM cassette?
munrobiker speaks of issues with SRAM cassettes and CB wheels, anyone got any links to this?
Br: hence my post... LBS will be getting a visit as the wheels are only a a month or so old.
i'm hoping that the sprocket is either totally clear of the freehub body, or its something else... if its been half on and has slipped off taking a chunk of the edge of the freehub with it I wont be best pleased!
SRAM cassettes are the same width as Shimano arn't they ? I assume there is a "Standard" width adopted by all manufacturers ? :-/
I'd be looking at that plastic spacer. If it's preventing the cassette from going all the way on to the freehub, then the last sprocket won't have anything to mesh with?
the spacer is literally a hairs width. and without it the rivets on the back of the SRAM cassette hit the flanges of the hub.
Ah - not like the 2mm one with the Mavics then.
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/help-sram-x9-10-speed-cassette-wont-fit
deadkenny - Member
Further on the 10sp compatibility. Definitely with the SRAM at least the top cog does not slide onto the freehub, just sits on top of the cog beneath and spins round. The lock ring tightens it up though and stops it spinning.
But you've already read that, because you started that thread...
Thats my old thread there...
This seems the cause...
deadkenny - Member
Got freehub replaced.Further on the 10sp compatibility. Definitely with the SRAM at least the top cog does not slide onto the freehub, just sits on top of the cog beneath and spins round. The lock ring tightens it up though and stops it spinning.
Not sure if the cog has engaged with the splines on the freehub after being compressed down by the lock ring, but I'm concerned about it. A deeper lock ring may not make much of a difference, don't know.
Done it up with the current lock ring I've got and all seems solid and tight. Though went to a lower torque as not happy with high torque steel in aluminium
LBS here I come.
See - if I'd read that first thread, I'd have chosen a different cassette.
I'd have not bought the wheels!
Am I missing something or is this thread not the same as the last one?
So new cassette, what about new chain?
If Its still the old chain I put my money on that being the problem
Even if it was an old chain that wouldn't cause the smallest cog to rotate relative to the others as stated.
zangolin - MemberIs there a quick link fitted to the chain?
If it's a Connex link then it can cause skipping on the smallest sprocket (link touches the lockring) - if the link is fitted upside down.
this is the answer if its a connex link
Right so the plot thickens..
LBS Visited with bike today, and there as pissed as me. They undid the lock ring and there was a fair bit of swarf in there... off popped the smallest sprocket to reveal no splines on the free-hub body! All worn away !!!
LBS have and are still tying to sort it out with CB distributors 2Pure.
LBS also showed me the parts and I couldn't quite get my head round why SRAM cover the "knurled / grooved" inner surface of the lock ring by a clip in stainless "washer"!
Anyone know why ?
Shimano lockring's / cassettes click as there tightened, and stop it loosening. I.E no stainless washer.
I'm thinking that the lockring may have also come slightly loose and allowed the sprocket a bit of space, and allowed it to slip ?
Assuming that they managed to thread the lockring on originally.. 🙄
Could be that with so little thread available, they stripped it and so it's always been loose. That would allow enough movement that the minimal spline interface wasn't enough.
Like I said above, if I'd read the original thread I'd have made sure it was a Shimano casette. It'll be interesting to see what 2pure say.
My 9 speed XT cassette came with a washer. I think it's because otherwise the the knurls on the aluminium lockring would get chewed to bits by the same marks on the 11t sprocket because aluminium is weaker than the steel. The stainless washer prevents this. This washer hasn't caused me and thousands of others any problems. I received a cheaper Shimano cassette earlier this week and it came with a steel lockring (just as strong as the sprocket) so no washer was supplied. Making sense?
druidh:
The Bike was 2 rides old when i put the new wheels on, and I wasn't about to change a perfectly good SRAM cassette, when 2pure (and Crank Brothers) said a SRAM 10speed would fit and WORK just fine.
Like you said 2pure's response is eagerly awaited...
adi66 - I hear what you're saying, but "real world" experience is often more useful 🙂
Did 2pure actually say it would work fine? I see that on ibiscycles.co.uk you can configure a Mojo with Cobalt wheels and an X9 cassette but it says an XX cassette isn't compatible. ❓
Did 2pure actually say it would work fine?
YEP !! to the manager of the LBS, when he called whilst I was present as the LBS mechanics where struggling to fit the cassette.
Should all be under warranty, but I am a little concerned... as in a week me and the bike are off to Oz for a 4 week MTB adventure!!! eek.
One way to look at this is that as shit as it is the worst thing that will happen is that the freehub is replaced under warranty (cb warranty is generally pretty good) and you may need to run a different cass) at least you sussed it before the trip. Where in oz you riding I am in Australia and the cb distrubutors are really good so take you receipt with you.
LOL Crank Bros. Oh well, you've got yourself some huge expensive ear rings I guess.
Or NOT he wheels ride really nicely ! but I guess you've not ridden them!LOL Crank Bros. Oh well, you've got yourself some huge expensive ear rings I guess.
Where in oz you riding I am in Australia and the cb distrubutors are really good so take you receipt with you.
Brisbane, Albert Park area, I've already hooked up with some riders over there for a few days (and hopefully a night ride) out. Where are you then... not that Oz is Small! lol
[i]Should all be under warranty, but I am a little concerned... as in a week me and the bike are off to Oz for a 4 week MTB adventure!!! eek. [/i]
What would concern me more is if I was off on a 4 week MTB trip and couldn't fix/understand the problem...
b r - Member
... then learn how to fix it - otherwise one day you'll have a long, long walk caused by a simple 'problem'.
and not taking a chainwhip and cassette tool / wrench
BR:
Cos' you know all about me, and my understanding of Bikes / mechanical things... I didn't used to work in a bike shop, nor am I Senior Engineer in a with a large upmarket vehicle manufacturer at their Huge Prototype Vehicle facility, looking after a team of guys building 100's of VERY VERY expensive & COMPLICATED vehicles each year. I understand **** all!!!!
My original question was "what could be wrong with this -have you got any experience that may help?" not "help me I don't understand how to fix my bike"
I don't know you, and you don't know me, so I'll leave it at that.
What would concern me more is if I was off on a 4 week MTB trip and couldn't fix/understand the problem...
and as ANTIQEE said to inspect and potentialy fix the problem:
and not taking a chainwhip and cassette tool / wrench
looking after a team of guys building 100's of VERY VERY expensive & COMPLICATED vehicles each year
just to add some balance i'd like to think that guys includes girlies and that "looking after" can't possibly even at this time of night be subject to misunderstanding