Bottom line is if I can do what I've done with almost no money why can the manufacturers and distributers not?
Because there is no [b]evidence[/b] it has any benefit?
Next time you change your bearings remember these words.Kaesae is a mentalist.
You're also missing the most important point, I don't care about money. When I say I hope every single idiot in the world doesn't buy my bearings. I really do mean it.
OK what kind of grease is it that you use?
[i]You want proof I state again. The length of time that they last![/i]
I think you're confusing [u]proof[/u] with "because I say so."
What's the main reason people change their bearings? Because their old ones have developed play. What's likely to cause play in bearings? Not dirt or water, but impact abrasion of the balls and bearing surfaces. Which is better at resisting impact abrasion? Full complement bearings.
: P
[i]OK what kind of grease is it that you use?[/i]
We know this one. It's "incredibly expensive grease", according to his eBay pages.
Or £80 for 4kg, according to his post on p6, which by his own admission serves a lot of bearings. Which is [url= http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=3306137 ]not particularly expensive for a specialist grease[/url].
: P
And I thought [url= http://www.klueber.com/Produkte/Produkte_Unterseiten/greases.htm ]THIS GREASE[/url] was expensive @ £39 for 500g tin when I bought it!
Kaesae...You keep going on about performance and caged bearings. Can you be a bit more specific, are they for High Speed, High Loads, High Temps ?!
The reason I ask, is that some high speed performance bearings actualy have a slacker tolerance to allow for centrifugal forces increasing the ball dia. at high rotational speeds. Such PERFORMANCE bearings would'nt be suitable for mtb's realy 😕
As for your steel caged bearing (again), The cage will provid no protection whatsoever from water, in fact it will help water spread around the bearing by capillary action far better than an open caged type or one with no cage 😉
What I don't understand is why someone has tagged this forum with "TJ goes into orbit" and I cannot find a single post by TJ... Que?
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The important thing with any bearing is not spinney, spinney smoothness when you roll it with your finger as much as how good they are at resisting loads…
Most MTB applications are well within the speed ranges and dynamic and static load ratings shown on bearing data sheets, even the cheap ones but these figures go out the window once you introduce the sort of water and debris a mountain bike will see in normal use…
The fact is MTBs are closer to agricultural machinery than a bloody F1 car, regardless of what we like to think…
I still think that most bouncy bikes should use more oil impregnated bronze bushes at their pivots, but I’m in a very small minority there…
It seems like product semantics and marketing BS overtake the logic of using a pair of single row ball bearings in a relatively low speed application when they see irregular 30deg rotation and constant radial and axial loading and lots of crud and moisture with variable servicing…
As for packing the buggers with grease well, it has plusses and minuses, one thing people often forget is that grease will act as an insulator as well as a lubricant, so packing your hubs choc full of grease could well help cook the bearings over time and heat helps the oils in most greases separate and migrate away, assuming that the grease itself doesn’t all simply migrate away after the first ten miles, a thin coating in the right place is often as good if not better.
Then there is the question of what grease to use, I’m not a tribologist and greases are far more complicated than people realise, suffice to say a quick smear of the PTFE loaded jizz the fella in the bike shop flogged you may be great, or then again it may knacker seals and actually be designed to operate in a different temperature range and/or at higher speeds, contrary to popular belief grease is not simply grease…
At the end of the day I still think a fair few the bearings you find in an awful lot of bike products seem to be spec’ed using either guess work or as designed in obsolescence, replacements irrespective of what you spend on them will only work as well as you treat them, ride through rivers and streams and then don’t bother with regular maintenance and shock horror they will fail, then again a cheap bearing will probably last quite well if it’s mostly kept dry and well looked after…
Fivespot has raised a question I was going to ask last night but had other things to do.
Most of the bearings we use at work are C3 or C4 clearance due to high speed/high vibration or cold start issues, and these bearings are most certainly high spec but not according to our slightly ranty friend.
Whilst kaesae’s basic argument that the bearings fitted to most suspension frames don’t have enough grease in for the application is correct.
That’s because if they were filled to that level by SKF,NSK,INA etc then they would be inundated with claims as most bearings used in a full rotation application would overheat if packed full with thick grease.
And before you spout off about bearings assuming everyone on here works in IT consider that some of us have been working in engineering for decades and might just know a whole lot more about bearings than you. If you want to get really in depth what SKF factory are your bearings come from as we ran a study and found huge differences in quality we even have a league table!
So far on bikes I have actually found the seals on NSK bearings to be superior after rebuilding many friends’ frames & HTII BB’s
I am about to replace the bearings in my 2008 Commencal Meta
I know how long the ones in there have lasted so far and when I take them out I can photograph the condition etc and happy to send Kaesae the removed bearings if he wants
I already have some Enduro max bearings for the main pivot however still to source 6 bearings for the 'contact system' rocker
If Kaesae wishes to contact me (email in profile) I am quite happy to use 3 of his 'cheaper' and 3 of his 'better' quality re-packed bearings and see how they all compare to each other and to the bearings I have just removed
Think of it as a road test
I will remain impartial as whilst having read these posts and others I do think Kaesae could do with better PR skills I also think he gets an overly hard grilling on here everytime he appears
It should really be about his product and not him so hopefully in 6 months time we can put this packed/unpacked max/caged debate to bed once and for all
If I dont hear anything then Im off to the bearing supplier down the road on Friday to get some INA bearings, that he can do me for £2.05 a pop
Damn, Damn, Damn.
I've just wasted my Lunch Break reading this. Bloody hell. I was lost at page 1 by the way, but I had to keep reading.
Damn.
Im very sorry missed this one, looks like a corker
needless to say, none of you will be coming any where near my pivots, ESPECIALLY kaesae and his dodgey caged, sealess bearings
It's easy. Buy cheap, replace often, everything remains sweet. Don't pick the seals and re-grease, it'll make no real difference to lifespan unless you're meticulous at cleaning and drying anyway and risks further damage. Don't bother re-packing when they've died, it's only prolonging the innevitable. You can buy 10 packs of cheap (chinese, whatever) bearings for buttons (I bought enough for 10 changes on my 4-bar for £25) and I just pop them out and replace them every 6-12 months. Ultimately the only time you know it's dead is if it's developed a lot of play (been dead for too long anyway!) or if it seizes, and even then it makes very little difference to suspension performance. I had all of the bearings in my NRS unable to turn more than ~20 degrees, at all, packed solid - I replaced all the bearings and the back end felt no different on the trail, sure in the workshop it felt a little smoother and gave me that nice warm feeling that bike maintenance gives, but I never noticed a jot on the trail. Bearings in cranks/wheels/headset are far more important but still follow the same rule - they're cheap consumables.
Hello wait that was a bit ****y
@iain1775 Much more manly and hard.
Wouldn't it be better to replace all the bearings with my performance ones. I'll tell you what I'll send some out and you can rotate them and the enduro max ones see which ones you think feel the best and then run what ever ones you like.
As for running three of one kind and three of another no point. I do like the thought of doing a 6 month test run. Can you open up your bearings and show us some photo's of the insides so we can all have a look. Then we can update this thread as it progresses.
Yes I know I still haven't answered your questions in a satisfactory way and you've all serviced hundreds of frames and replaced and analyzed thousands of mountain bike bearings, just like me.
Iain1775 are you willing to fit one of my performance bearing kits and tell us how long they last, but also if the back end feels any better in terms of it's performance?
Personally I think you may find people more willing to listen if you weren't so arrogant, the mine's better than yours argument is not enough anymore, people want facts and figures of which you have provided none!
I watched the video with the hope hub and the 2 pences and thought it genius.
But after reading your arguments I am not tempted to try your bearings, when I go to betd or enduro they back their claims up!!!
It's not enough to say I have serviced hundreds of frames and analyzed thousands of bearings without telling us how you have analyzed them, they last longer because you say so doesn't cut it.
At the end of the day I have serviced thousands of frames, and replaced hundreds of bearings, and I have the correct qualifications to back that up, and my opinion on bearings is different to yours!
Tone down the name calling and arrogance, and you may find people more willing to listen to your "reasoned" argument!
Jay
Loving it . This is almost as exciting as 'washing machine stories' that exciting soap opera that happens when the clothes are washing.....
why dont you inspect the bearings in the washing machine .......
Btw before you try and 'ive got more experiance in a specific field than you' its a good idea to check what qualifications the other guy has .... There are a few folk in this thread who have some pretty handy qualifications and experiance in the relevent field to back them up .... You have arrogance and as far as i can see that is it .....
martinxyz why not simply have them made with the right grease fill and seals in the fasctory?
its you that mentioned filling the bloody things up with grease,not me! make a bit of money out of this by quitting the pissin about filling bearings and fit the ones yer on about in the first place. or is it those high end ones that you are eventually filling up at a later stage?
They last longer because everyone in the world that uses them says so. SKF are one of the longest lasting bearings in the world and INA are one of the longest lasting also, on top of that they have superior seals. Which is a good thing when the water is out of them but a bad thing when it's in. You want proof I say yet again should I prove water is wet or the sun is hot or that a wheel is round?
There is no point answering questions on this site, as for arrogance? From my perspective I'm confident if you feel I am proud and over bearing perhaps it is your perception of me that if flawed or that you have some issues with your own confidence.
The whole point of this thread is to have a laugh there is no point in arguing with you lot and if you want to tell me I don't know about bearings fair enough.
As for not insulting people I started insulting you when one of you called me an idiot back at the start of the thread.
Very soon people on here will be testing the bearings for frames those who have them for hubs are already impressed and yes I know how long the bearings last and what the riders using them think doesn't count.
one last thing these Awsome engineering types did they create the best bearings puller in the industry. One that does pretty much every hub, frame, headset, and BB?
Must have just been me then.
Here is my argument stated yet again.
1) Performance bearings because of their close tolerances and superior construction last longer than cheapo bearings in the same application. They also perform better.
2) Where there is grease there is no water as they do not hang around together, due to not getting on.
3) You have asked me to prove what I am saying? I have refused as I see no point in proving the obvious.
So here is my response to those who would doubt what I claim and know to be true.
Since you are so interested in evidence prove me wrong!
"NSK is the World Leader in deep groove ball bearings.
We have achieved our position over a number of years by pushing Deep Groove Ball Bearings beyond that of any other manufacturer. By extending the normal boundaries of performance and functionality we are able to offer deep groove ball bearings that extend machine life and provide years of maintenance free service."
http://www.nskamericas.com/cps/rde/xchg/na_en/hs.xsl/deep-groove-ball-bearings.html
1) Performance bearings because of their close tolerances and superior construction last longer than cheapo bearings in the same application.
This is undoubtedly true. To what extent, hard to tell without back to back fair testing but I suspect a reasonable extent - lower tolerance control=poorer sealing=faster contamination.
They also perform better.
That is questionable, in the sense that performance must be noticable - until they develop too much play and start to rattle, I suspect even the most anal person won't notice the difference in friction between a good and a bad bearing, it's got to be in the order of tenths of a Nm.
2) Where there is grease there is no water as they do not hang around together, due to not getting on.
This is not completely true, even with waterproof greases I've seen hub bearings (trailer hub) that have emulsified the oil with the water and seized and/or corroded beyond repair. In order for it not to be the case you'd need either no sealing (let the water flow away instantly, but that will trap grit instantly) or perfect sealing.
3) You have asked me to prove what I am saying? I have refused as I see no point in proving the obvious.
Remember water can be ice, wheels can be buckled and the sun is only hot in comparison with earth - everything is relative and there is not necessarily an obvious or right/wrong answer to every question. I'm not disagreeing with the principles, but if you can't provide proof of performance improvements you're effectively just willy waving and no-one cares. If you could show your evidence people would actually be really genuinely interested. At the end of the day normal bearings are flawed in many ways for MTB use, but they're very cheap and easy to replace.
i hate missing out on a good argument because i dont understand what you are arguing about.
therefore im going to pee in your shoes while you carry on talking about complicated stuff, dont mind me...
[i]...you've all serviced hundreds of frames and replaced and analyzed thousands of mountain bike bearings, just like me.[/i]
This is also important. Doing something lots of times does not make you an expert on its own. How exactly have you analyzed (sic) those bearings?
As many of the engineers on here will tell you, "feeling" the difference by rotating bearings in your hand is certainly not an objective or scientific analysis, regardless of your claims of expertise.
Do you have any measure of degree of play in the bearings, an analysis of the amount of contamination, an indication of how much the seals have been compromised, a measure of bearing surface corrosion compared to force damage (denting, grooving, brinelling), etc.? What sort of records of bearing types do you keep and how have you analysed the new bearings from each manufacturer? What degree of variability is there in the output from each manufacturer or each product line? How often do you qualitatively test a sample of each new bearing and what percentage fall below your standards? What are your standards and why have you chosen them?
A good engineering company will have quantifiable answers (that means answers with a number) to most of the above questions; unless they are tied to one manufacturer, many companies seeking the best quality components will be constantly researching the market, testing and comparing products. And they will assert expertise by describing their research methods and findings.
"I'm the best because I say I am and I know a lot" is the pathetic cry of an amateur.
: P
Without even getting into your little arguments my experience of bearings has been as follows.
Trek Liquid
Original bearing lasted 18mths
Swapped out for BETD Enduro Max bearings lasted 9mths
Swapped out for SKF bearings Lasted 9mths
Swapped out for Cheapo EBAY bearings lasted 9mths
HTII Bottom Bracket
Original bearings - 12mths
SSC BB - 12mths
SKF Bearings 12mths
Cheapo EBAY Bearings 12mths
All of the above has lead me to believe (Rather limited and very open to being wrong) that on suspension pivots the restricted movement means that you can put any old crappy bearing in their and there wont be much of an improvement in performance. It is purely down to the seals which when looking at all the bearings and how they let the water and muck in seem to be on similar levels. You can talk about tolerances as much as you like but if you cant keep them sealed you are onto a loser. None of the bearings collapsed, they just filled up with crap and rusted.
BB bearings are the same. I have got 12mths out of £2.50 ebay bearings which i have a spare BB waiting to slot in once these pack up. Cost me £10 for 4 🙂 Happy days.
What a boring topic btw. They are bearings and you can buy cheap ones or expensive ones. How about we get two identical frames and fit one with the cheap ones and one with the expensive ones. Then get kaesae to tell us which is which.
kaesae - Member
There is no point answering questions on this site, as for arrogance?there is no point in arguing with you lot and if you want to tell me I don't know about bearings fair enough.
one last thing these Awsome engineering types did they create the best bearings puller in the industry. One that does pretty much every hub, frame, headset, and BB?
Must have just been me then.
That last statement could be seen as arrogant?
As I have said before what you are doing with the bearings is absolutely spot on for the application but the way you put things across is very confrontational, if you spoke to people like that face to face I doubt it would be long before someone battered you!
If this puller is as good as you say it is & having seen pictures of you well sorted workshop I have no doubt it is then you perhaps could make even more money marketing that to bike shops?
Even better if you can make a press to fit them properly as that's the main cause of early bearing failure in industrial applications.
Think I gave you those SKF bearings didn't I TLH
How about we get an arse and an elbow. Then get kaesae to tell us which is which.
You are correct - The sun is Hot, already proven. Water is wet, already proven and wheels are mostly round, guess what, already proven.
I don't have to take these things on faith, they have been proven!!!
You haven't proved that you're argument is correct, you're asking me to take it on faith and don't even reason out others arguments!
If I told you I had found that the best material for handlebars was spaghetti would you believe me, especially when I have no numbers to back it up?
That's quite extreme but you're asking me to believe you on your say so, to have faith in you, but you haven't put forward a reasoned argument.
You say that you are the best at what you do with no evidence - that my friend, is ignorance and arrogance!
It is fine to have courage in your convictions, and belief in your products, and that being said you should then be able to "prove it" or reason through others arguments.
Unfortunately this thread is really no longer about bearings ( that was covered in the first 2 pages).
I wish you all the luck with your new business (if that is what it is), if you want any advice on Customer Service, marketing or even expanding and franchising, feel free to get in touch...
Jay
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Blimey. For bits that cost under a tenner a pop and eventually (in my experience) wear out there seems to be rather a lot of excitement.
Anyone want to come riding later instead? Meet at Will's Wheels on the A6 at 6.30 today (27th April) and then off for a cheeky 3 hrs or so round Marple?
Cheers
Paul
one last thing these Awsome engineering types did they create the best bearings puller in the industry. One that does pretty much every hub, frame, headset, and BB?
I would like to the bearing puller you designed "Ain't taking the p1ss" just interested!!
Im also genuinely interested in your bearing puller, and i expect many people are, especially in industry.
Any pictures of it? - I have made do with a socket the right size, 2 spacers and a nut and bolt....
I still cannot find any posts by TJ yet the "TJ goes into orbit" tag is still there, someone please satisfy my OCD and tell me what is going on..
I think the bottom line is this, stick to quality bearings such as NSK, SKF, FAG, RHP and you wont go far wrong.
Frankers - Memberone last thing these Awsome engineering types did they create the best bearings puller in the industry. One that does pretty much every hub, frame, headset, and BB?
I would like to the bearing puller you designed "Ain't taking the p1ss" just interested!!
Posted 2 hours ago # Report-Post
crankrider - Member
Im also genuinely interested in your bearing puller, and i expect many people are, especially in industry.Any pictures of it? - I have made do with a socket the right size, 2 spacers and a nut and bolt....
me three
He doesn't have to prove anything, it's all obvious... 🙂
http://www.southerndownhill.com/forum/index.php?topic=224915.0
flamed like a bk special. it looks like everyones disbelief of his "claims" might be the one unifying element of all mtb forums!
Who requires evidence for my claims and what form would you prefer this evidence to take?
For example stats for bearings and grease or emails from people who run the bearings I advise. Or a list of the actual research that I have done and experiments I have carried out.
I will be taking the rest of the night off but I'm sure we can get stuck into it tomorrow.
Marin and Whyte bikes have lifetime warranty on the bearings.
They will fail. They are replaced free.
The end.
Who requires evidence for my claims and what form would you prefer this evidence to take?
I'd like to see your degree certificate from wherever you studied tribology, because you clearly know five eighths of f*** all on the subject.
A Kaesae quote from another forum. Nice one Coffeeking 😆
"I believe that subtle manipulations to the rear end on full sus MTB frames can improve both the efficiency and subsequent ride quality. On the frames I sell and with the bearings my back ends run, energy is actively being absorbed by the action, as there is less energy for the dampening unit to deal with the whole bike performs better.
Look at it this way if a proportion of the energy that is created when the back end moves is absorbed by the actual back ends action then the shock is better able to do its job. As long as this process doesn’t interfere with the movement of the rear end or shocks dampening there are benefits to be gained.
Say we have 100% pressure or energy in the transfer of movement from wheel contact to shock. With standard bearings there is no energy absorption and also as a result of the loose tolerances play either from the beginning of the bearings life or later on. The rear end will move on a very slight arc, and is therefore not as efficient at dealing with these forces that are being applied to it.
However in contrast my bearings or teflon thust spacers and other mods actively absorb energy without interfering with the function of the back end or the shocks dampening characteristics.
How could this not be a good thing? That said the proof is in the pudding" 😕
What a load of b%^*+X
Kaesae, I will try and simplify this. I am no expert, but I think you need help.
Here goes:-
If your back end is nice and smooth & slick (with your SPECIAL PERFORMANCE bearings) then the shock has MORE work to do.
If your bearings are stiff or siezed, then your frame and wheel will take a fare share of the shock because when it takes a hit sha**ed bearings don't allow the shock to do its work.
SIMPLES 😕
fivespot
Are you willing to do more than talk same question to everyone else.
subtle: oxford dictionary means: slight and difficult to detect.
Now who on here has more than hot air to contribute to a thread?
I have another idiotic idea that I would like to voice who wants to hear it?
I have another idiotic idea that I would like to voice who wants to hear it?
Hell yes!!
I refer you to previous posts where we established that all your ideas are idiotic - please save your breath.
"Are you willing to do more than talk same question to everyone else".
What ! 😕
"On the frames I sell and with the bearings my back ends run, energy is actively being absorbed by the action, as there is less energy for the dampening unit to deal with the whole bike performs better" 😕
The whole idea of the Damper is to absorb energy, the suspension transmits that enegry.
Did you ever spend a whole day in school ?
something tells me he was one of those kids that the teachers were actually relieved when he bunked off...
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I'm not reading all that!
Someone give me a quick lowdown on what this thread is all about.....
Zedsdead - Member
I'm not reading all that!Someone give me a quick lowdown on what this thread is all about.....
Kael sells bearing kits on ebay. He wants to pass on the message on why he is the best and everyone else knows nothing because they haven't serviced thousands of frame and sold loads of bearing kits. If you have a question, don't bother asking as he will reply with some gobbledegook and then start calling you names.
SDH have him sussed though as most of us do. Unfortunately, he can't have a mirror or if he does he doesn't look hard at himself!
Kaesae, not wanting to drag up an old thread or anything but, tell us again, where do you get all of those frames from again? Not sure if you ever answered before.
[i]Think I gave you those SKF bearings didn't I TLH [/i] If that was over on BM, yes you did 😉
TheLittlestHobo - MemberThink I gave you those SKF bearings didn't I TLH If that was over on BM, yes you did
Yep it was, right forum tart me 😉
Where's he gone? I'm getting worried...
curfew at the assylum im sure !
Got any theories about bearings you want to talk about while he's not here?
Personally I'm looking forward to Kaesae's contributions to the Hifi industry.
I decided to learn what i could about bearings today so i prized the seals of the bearings in my pro 3 hubs and packed them with raspberry jam on the LHS and LEmon curd on the right hand side - and in the front ones i used crushed up krackawheats ....
will test them out tomorrow.
We want PROOF of the improved performance though. None of this "it's better cos I say it is" crap.
Jesus Christ...Should be a 'Probably a stupid bearings question', makes as much sense... 😉
Ultimately if joe bloggs was saying "I think my idea is better, and I don't need to prove it" we'd say "sure, enjoy". But someone trying to sell things and claiming they're better needs to have at least BASIC proof of claims.
Ah well, time to switch off and ignore this one.
"I have another idiotic idea that I would like to voice who wants to hear it?"
Oh hell yes. Keep 'em coming.
So who knows the score about cables then? Come on, who? ME! That's who!
I have [s]touched[/s] [b]expertly serviced[/b] [s]more than three[/s] literally MILLIONS of cables on bicycles and some people paid me money for it, so I'm a real EXPERT! I know all there is to know about cables, because I've seen some.
I sell [b]highest quality[/b] cables. Well, I sell average cables, I mean most of the major cable manufacturers make comparable cables, but I've chosen one brand because they're the best because I say they are. I use [b]galvanised cables[/b] because I say they're the best, even though the manufacturers also make stainless steel ones. I [b]disregard[/b] all those people who say that stainless steel cables are better or more appropriate because [b]they don't know anything![/b], not like me, and anyway, they're just trying to make money.
But what's really great is that I [b]lubricate[/b] the cables with my own [b]magic[/b] [s]man[/s] [b]grease[/b]! It's REALLY EXPENSIVE, well, it takes me a bit of time and some effort, but it makes a HUGE difference to performance. Because [b]everyone[/b] notices the vast difference in [b]high performance cables[/b]. Well, I do, because I'm an EXPERT - my hands are so [b]expert-ish[/b] I don't need even need tools! Or "science".
Some of you who aren't EXPERTS like me might notice that the cables are not as "smooth-running" or so-called "long-lasting". Well that means [b]nothing[/b]. That's because my magic grease actually INCREASES the drag on the cables, but remember I'm an EXPERT, I know what I'm doing. My magic grease means that the cables actually [b]absorb energy[/b] - and absorbing energy means a performance increase! No, it does, because I say so. I've [b]made it better[/b]!
I won't confuse [s]myself[/s] you by explaining, in any kind of specific way, how I have reached this conclusion but suffice to say that [b]I'm the best expert[/b] and if you disagree it's clearly because you're an IDIOT.
Now, [b]who wants to buy my cables?[/b]
: P
Wow Pierre, I like it - but maybe too much effort involved? 🙂
I still seriously want to see the bearing puller.. no piss taking, as i said i am genuinely interested.
Do you have any pictures of it at all?
Go, Kaesae, Go!!!...you tell the fools, the disbelievers, the tv drones or whatever you call them.
Can we have another theory please.
Oh, and the bearing puller does sound genuinley interesting, pop it up, lets have a butchers then.
He must have opinions on 'What tyres for....'
you seriously expect him to post his bearing puller for everyone to lynch the idea regardless?
Its easy to be clever and make snide remarks behind the anonominity of the internet but how many of you have actually got off your arses and tried to actually do something productive?
If you dont agree with him, dislike his sales patter, attitude or product then just ignore him. Don't section him out and try to destroy his business, thats not really very fair.
I thought mountain biking was generally a friendly sociable scene and sport
Each to their own, he believes he is providing a service, he stands by his beliefs and it seems to be a service enough people want.
Yes he can come across as an arse, yes his theories may be questionable to the more educated of you here but at the end of the day, if you don't like it, just don't read his patter, buy your bearings elsewhere and you will be none the wiser and non the worse off
If other people want to buy bearings from him thats up to them, personally I need new bearings, I normally use my local bearing supplier. I am willing to give this guy a break just once as until I personally try something then how do I actually know its any better or worse
I may be making a mistake, I may not, at the end of the day I cant be ar$ed removing seals and messing with grease myself to see if it lasts longer so Im not going to loose out by much am I, a few bearings are hardly the most expensive bike part I have ever had to buy
I think this thread and the abuse in general (on both sides I add) has run its course and gone far enough
Initially I kind of agreed with the mob and laughed along but seriously its looking a bit pathetic and childish now
This thread's like a scab thats not quite ready to be picked, I just cant resist having a little look in every now and again and watching it bleed.
Bleak.
His bearing puller is on youtube
Nothing new there then 🙄
What a tool. 🙄
You could get a bearing like that out in a fraction of the time using a sleeve anchor.
There must be a bit more to the one he raves about, the one on Youtube won't do blind bearings.... ?
Some video editing would have been good, the dropping of various items got a bit tedious, but then I have read this thread from start to finish ..... !!!
or a screwdriver and hammer!!!
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