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cheifgrooveguru...I agree. It is clear we are agreeing! I was never convinced SA and ETT affected static handling, merely that altering the former whilst maintaining the latter...which was my original point about the Starling, alters the factors you previously mentioned and thus does....but Rorschach has a point above there 😆
I'm now mostly looking forward to getting my youngster and some other not so tall peeps out on the recently arrived not so long now, I think that will be interesting.
Well that and putting the G13 back together now I also have another front 29 to use on the G16.
It's as if all the different tubes and angles on a frame are somehow connected to each other
On a different note, put a set of 34 29" floats on the G16. Different to what i've ridden before, but it certainly went quicker. also the back end seemed to snap round to where you wanted it. That's my small input.
paul J, that would be consistent with the feeling I, CP and others have in terms of steering at the rear. I can't say its faster or not having not timed it.
Turning radius of the rear wont be any different to a 27.5 both ends bike, but it feels different definitely, obviously relative to the front radius.
A few guys were running 29 fronts earlier on but i think with shorter forks and no tweaking of BB heights for obvious reasons.
Hi Chainline, So now waiting for Paul to ship out my G16 longest with 44mm offset 29r fork and 222mm shock 😀
Will I need a -1 headset to get the magic 61.5 HA, or will stock achieve that ?
This thread is now utterly impenetrable.
I might stick with the hardtail for a while.
What is the weight of a longer G13 with a trail type build?
Shark attack. That is a shame. Can you elaborate. I am trying to use it to give advice and to feedback riding impressions and what is possible and to help facilitate people getting answers or the right service.
Also to feedback comments/views to CP and to use myself in thoughts of what could be improved going forward.
How'syourdad depends on $$$ but 30-32lbs
Assumes 36 or similar upfront. lower end is a non piggyback rear shock.
Wheels and tyres used make a big difference.
Bars and saddle are easy and lowish cost weight wins.
Cassette makes a big difference.
[img] http://https://www.flickr.com/photos/151193523@N05/shares/pQ5b1z [/img]first shake down of the new steed
enzocycling, fixed the link, not sure if flickr lets you share photos as images on forums, not used it in a long time.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/151193523@N05/34155774044/in/shares-nmrs1C/
This thread is now utterly impenetrable.I might stick with the hardtail for a while.
If you have a specific question just ask and you will get an answer. Or just get in touch with Mojo they will make sure you get the right bike for you.
cheers chainline. i really considering the g13 next spring. wondering if it will be updated to metric shock perhaps. enjoying this thread
also, are there demo Days in sweden?!? 😀
Sir HC. thanks
howsyourdad1 well that might be more difficult! It could depend on the air fare, driveable tho....you could always take a cheap return flight to the Uk and do a day here 😉
Here you go enzocycling, click the share button and copy & paste the BBCode 😀
[url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4228/34155774044_354e593d1e_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4228/34155774044_354e593d1e_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/U3egDW ]20170530_213820[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/151193523@N05/ ]Leo Copeman[/url], on Flickr
Oh, and I have actually ridden one, the longest 650b version at the Cannock demo day a while back. I was amazingly surprised at how nimble and and poppy it felt for such a long bike with 160mm of travel. If you/they ever decide to go with a shorter travel model, 130mm rear 150mm front say, I'd be very interested.
@chainline, no way I could tempt you here then with a couple of Nicolai bike in tow? there would be guaranteed interest!
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Wellll, hmmmm, maybe, I'll chat with Chris 😉
excellent . my cunning plan is working Pole are doing a demo day here in July , but obviously the Nicolai is my preferred choice 😀
Shark attack. That is a shame. Can you elaborate. I am trying to use it to give advice and to feedback...
You're doing just that mate, and unbelievably well. I just don't know how you've got the patience for it. I hope Mojo are paying you overtime for looking after this thread!
If you/they ever decide to go with a shorter travel model, 130mm rear 150mm front say, I'd be very interested.
This ^^^^^^^^^. In a standard 27.5 model rather than the custom £500 upcharge
Sharkattack. Mojo don't pay me at all, but Chris is a good friend and it means I get to do testing, feedback and development and help people to get what they want. I love doing that. I pay the mortgage with the day job 🙂
Rik. Noted.
😀
Enzo, that's a stunner mate!!
So we have the frames now, two in fact, the GeoMetron Bikes Not-so-long small persons and kids design .
Jack Readings young riding buddy has thrown a leg over the demo frame built up as you can see in the pick, thanks to Instagram, GeoMetron bikes and Jack for positing this, he clearly loves it and is very rapid.
I am building the second frame up with a test specification for kids/smaller lighter rider full build and will post some pics and specification once I've done that.
We intend to make this a production bike. Headlines are GeoMetron geometry and features but with a 73mm BB for narrower Q factor, 145mm to 160mm rear travel and an ideal front of 160mm to 180mm, the full build will run 34's and a DPS rear, 150 or 155mm cranks, light high quality wheels and a light cassette with 11spd drivetrain and Hope brakes.
Standover is 668mm/26", seat tube is 350mm/13.5" which should allow for a 125-150m dropper even for smaller folk with a 150 or 155mm crank.
Hoping to get lots of riders on these two frames, novice, fast, young and not so young, boys, girls men and women to get feedback.
[img][url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4259/35007411176_d7400faa94_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4259/35007411176_d7400faa94_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/Vku8GL ]Untitled[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/the_pilot/ ]Phil[/url], on Flickr[/img]
that is rad.
What sort of air pressure are people riding on the 36 180s for the Geometron relative to Fox recommended? Ever since I got my Geometron the rear shock X2 felt incredible but the forks felt harsh. After lots of setting changes I finally dropped the recommended air pressure from 83psi to 60 psi, what a revelation. Now the forks feel like butter even on the roughest of Lake District descents. Seems odd that the charts should be so far out and it's not like I am not hammering the bike. Wish I had done this a year ago!
Have you got many volume spacers in suit. They make a big difference I found. I'm 80kg loaded and run. About 65psi with 2 blues.
72 psi seems to be my magic number with 2 blues at about 90 kHz. Shockwiz agreed. 1 click low speed no high speed.
I do wonder if a revalve to put me in the middle of a lower range of compression might be a good thing
The geometric is a bit rich for me, but I'm positively dying to try one of these;
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That said, a 27.5 "trail" geometron say 140rr/150fr with great climbing would be an interesting proposition indeed.
One blue spacer as specced by Mojo. I am around 93-95kg in riding gear and I have had to lower the pressure to 60psi for the forks to feel how I expect them to. No compression used either. Now getting almost full travel with big hits but mid stroke support is spot on. Still don't think I have set perfectly, would love a gadget to log data or a day with Mojo!
That said, a 27.5 "trail" geometron say 140rr/150fr with great climbing would be an interesting proposition indeed.
I said the same a while back, a 140mm travel lighterweight Geometron would be an absolute winner especially for massive mountain days.
The weight reduction would be insignificant, 200g at best in a 20mm shorter bike.
You're better off fitting non piggy back shock and lighter wheels & tyres you could run 160mm 34's as we will on the not-so-long if it's an all day bike.
Much bigger savings than a shorter travel frame with the same forks etc just less travel.
On a Mojo bike that's gives a 63 HA.
You've lost 2.5lbs right there with very little compromise for the purpose.
Try a shockwiz duir. I haven't but if honourablegeorge has had a go might be worth it.
For the record if you're riding gnarly stuff I get it. In Spain last year I had a dreadful setup for 2 days as I kept letting pressure out. I couldn't believe it (on my 40's) I ended up a hair over 55psi relative to 75pso start point. Just due to the terrain being much rougher than my normal trails, also had to take a spacer out. Was lovely then. Chris was with me and said pretty normal.
Got back home and it was not good on my normal trails...
Have you given the lowers a good service. The bushes can go off and make them much stickier I've found.
Having a lighter bike is not always the main goal with a 140mm trail bike. I (and it looks like others do too) don't want 160+ mm of travel bottomless travel even if it might weigh the same.
130mm would be my preference (but most would prob go 140mm) as it's keeps you on the edge more, and brings far more smiles than plowing through everything with little regard for line choice like you can on a 160-170mm bike. Even if your speed is ever so slightly less it's still more fun.
Have you given the lowers a good service. The bushes can go off and make them much stickier I've found
Recently done by Mojo. I think you have maybe hit the nail there Chainline, it's just so rough in the Lake District and descents can be very long. I have not tried without any spacers yet so may try that but pretty happy with how they are now and can still feel my arms at the bottom!
With the 140mm front and rear it's not so much about weight but the bracing could maybe go and lighter tubing? It's more about having a really snappy trail bike for massive mountain days. I take your point about lighter wheels and shock but I would still ride a 140 Geometron how I ride my 180/155 and the descents would be just as rough so wheels or tyres not a place to compromise up here. Reckon a 140mm front and rear Geometron would sell like hot cakes in the UK.
For the record if you're riding gnarly stuff I get it. In Spain last year I had a dreadful setup for 2 days as I kept letting pressure out. I couldn't believe it (on my 40's) I ended up a hair over 55psi relative to 75pso start point. Just due to the terrain being much rougher than my normal trails, also had to take a spacer out. Was lovely then
Interesting - my 36s are currently running at 140mm without any spacers. I was expecting to add one or more back in Spain last week but there was enough ramp up anyway (I'm guessing with the fork at lower travel the air chamber is smaller so ramps up more anyway?). Mid stroke support is so good on the 36 - don't get fazed at all when it gets really steep.
Howsyourdad1 where's that?
åre bike park , Sweden. Opening weekend this weekend!
I do wonder if a revalve to put me in the middle of a lower range of compression might be a good thing
Paul at Mojo has just revalved and put a lighter oil in my 36 for me.I had both high and low speed compression adjusters wound all the way out and while it felt good on mid and big hits it was way to stiff on small chatter.
The difference now is night and day.
I've gone from 64psi to 85psi to get the same amount of sag.
Also running a couple of clicks of highspeed and 12 lowspeed.
It now works as well on the chatter as it does on the mid and big stuff.As a bonus the comp adjusters have now become useful again instead of just being an ornament.
That sounds like what I'd be after Stu.
Speak to Paul then. 🙂