Just fitted a dropper post. M-part stick on cable guides are worse than useless. Tempted to get some rivet on cable guides and fit them to the underside of the top tube. It's an alu hardtail, 4.5 lbs frame.
Your thoughts and opinions please.
Zip tie?
Fine.
I don't think anyone here builds in aluminium.
It'll be absolutely fine - cable guides only use 3mm rivets anyway usually, and there's plenty of metal there.
Cheers guys. pop rivets or rivnuts and bolts?
Is it fair to say that the top tube is one of the less load bearing members of a frame?
If it's any recommendation, Ghost and Lapierre seem happy to throw rivnuts all over their frames.
Just make sure the nose of your rivetgun has a long nose or make a round spacer about 5 dia by. 3 lng for getting the rivet head snug a lot of off the shelf guns have larger dia noses and it fouls meaning you can't get the gun in
The ones you get from ceeway are quite tight
Also tbh I just bond them on and I haven't had any reports of losing one
I don't think anyone here builds in aluminium.
Er yes they do and carbon and steel
4.5lb is pretty hefty for a Alu HT if there are no gubbins like an ebb etc. so tubing is probably quite thick enough.
I'd just araldite them on if it were mine though for less stress. The strength/direction of forces works in its favour too.
Cheers guys. pop rivets or rivnuts and bolts?
Rivets. Rivnuts need a larger hole, and do you really need them removable?
I put or or two little nuts over the shank of the rivet to avoid the clearance problem Compositepro mentioned.
And yes, I've never tried gluing cable guides but I know people who have with a lot of success - that's another option.
Er yes they do and carbon
Ooh! Who?
Zip ties ffs it's not a gcse project 🙂
Or the posh cable guide zip ties made by Sachs/SRAM.
I do remember a magic material.for making light climbing gear called drillanium which could be made from heavy stuff a drill and balls
I found the M-Part stick on guides fine, what trouble are you having with them?
I used one of [url= http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cable-Modders-Zip-Tie-Adhesive-Cradle-Mount-19x19mm-20-Pack-Black-/110966655168?pt=UK_Computing_Cable_Ties_Organisers&hash=item19d620c8c0 ]these[/url] stuck on the frame after cleaning with meths.
It has stuck a treat.
The trouble I had with the M-part was they just didn't stick. warmed them and the frame, wiped frame with IPA, gave it time to flash off. stuck them on. gave them about half an hour before fitting cable and they popped off instantly.
might try bonding some on though.
I used epoxy in the end, but two of the three have now come off. I think it might be because the frame is anodised.
I'm going to try using some 1/8" rivets. Just need to work out what grip length I need. Anyone able to make an educated guess at tube thickness on a 4.5 lb alu hardtail frame?
I would just drill 5mm holes and run it internal.
Not a bad idea. Any idea where I could find some of those plates that feed the cable in at an angle for internal routing?
I've been using these on my anodised Nicolai for the last year and a bit with no trouble. Still holding fine (used to guide reverb hose)
http://www.amazon.com/Jagwire-Alloy-Stick-On-Guides-C-Clips/dp/B0029LBPO8
I'd use peel back rivets
You think it needs peelback? I wouldn't have thought they were that heavily loaded.
Not a bad idea. Any idea where I could find some of those plates that feed the cable in at an angle for internal routing?
You don't need um. The Specialized frames (pre Stealth) just have a hole drilled at an angle (around 60 degrees) in the top tube. Loads of people I know have drilled carbon frames in the downtube for Stealth routing. Best way is to make a guide out of wood that has a rounded section as close as possible to your top tube with the correct angle pre drilled into it (will depend on stem length and bar width). The exit hole has to account for the bend in hose/cable when the post is compressed. It doesn't want to be too close to the seat tube or the cable/hose could contact the rear tire (especially if you have rear suspension.
Onzadog - Member
I used epoxy in the end, but two of the three have now come off. I think it might be because the frame is anodised.
Did you abraded the surface first?
I did, but I guess not aggressively enough. I dulled the Anodising rather than going back to bare metal.
I just prefare peely backs when riveting into thin soft metal