[Closed] 2nd hand buying tips

If you're collecting in person then assume you're buying as seen. Make sure you're happy with it before paying!

Seller might not want to take payment through eBay/PayPal for collection in person as it leaves them open to scams.

Imagine it's a 2nd hand car that you're selling/buying privately, especially as you're going to view it. How would you do that?

Its a tough one, Id say run your eyes over as much of it as you can to check for cracks, chips in paint, cable run, etc, almost like you are cleaning it.
To check the brakes, ride the bike along on the flat and test them this way, the old test whilst still doesn't work.
Give the rear wheel a wobble with hands at 12 and 6 to check for play in the wheel/driver and then 3 - 9 to check for play in the rear end if full suspension.
For Suspension, pump it up to your recommended weight and then check how it feels off the top and do fiddle with the rebound knobs and compressions knobs as going from one end of the range to the other will be noticeable.

What brand is it OP, there may be other more brand specific things people can point you towards.

Ask for proof of any recent servicing of suspension.

Definitely get a signed receipt

What brand is it OP, there may be other more brand specific things people can point you towards.

Yeti! ...waits for gasps!!

oikeith nailed most of the items I would look for. I was in the same position as you a few years back when I bought a carbon capra second hand. A few more items I would add are

* Check for replacement spokes - different coloured nipples or diff sized spokes ---may indicate wheel issues
* Shift through all the gears
* Check the play in the rear derailleur ---sure you can buy a new one but if the current one is knackered you need to take that in to consideration
*Check for crank bearing play
* Bounce the rear and listen/feel for knocking from rear suspension pivots/bearings
*Check for serious scratches on shock and fork
* Operate dropper post to make sure it runs smoothly
* Check for dropper post sag (again can be fixed but costs money to do so)
* Check chain wear - if it's beyond 5% stretch then it's likely you wont be able to just replace the chain, so you need to run the drive train until it dies and then replace everything --people have varying preferences on this
*Headset play
* Play in fork bushings
*Check shock/fork are smooth
* Ask for original receipts/manuals etc etc

That's about it really 🙂

Buy a chain checker tool, like this:

...although there are lots of others (the Shimano TL-CN42 is technically one of the best).

If the chain is significantly worn, the cassette will probably also be worn, and the chainrings could be on their way out too, plus the jockey wheels on the rear mech may be a bit tired. If all that lot is worn out, it's going to cost you a fair bit to get the bike running smoothly again.

Also, as others have said, spin the wheels and check they're running straight and round with no significant dings or wobbles. With the bike on the ground, try and wobble the wheels from side to side - if the hub bearings are worn or loose the wheel will pivot or shift sideways and you'll need a hub service. You should also be able to feel if the rear suspension pivots are loose; a wobbly vague back end is unpleasant to ride and expensive to fix.

Apply the front brake and push the bike gently back and forward. If the headset is loose or worn - or if the suspension forks have play - you'll feel a knocking as the front wheel stays still and the play in the front end clunks through its movement. Put a finger or thumb on the junction you think is loose to check (across headset lower cup and fork crown, for example).

As for checking the bike's legit - ask lots of questions, have a look for the serial number, check it there and then against Bikeregister and if it doesn't feel right, walk away. A sound seller may not have an original receipt for the bike and / or parts but will be able to answer any questions about the bike, which bits are non-standard, where and when they were bought, where it's been serviced, and will write you a full receipt for the payment including address, bike serial number and anything else you want to put on it.

Make sure important things like the forks and shock are actually correct for the frame. I've bought a bike once that turned out to have been built from up from random parts and the forks were 30mm too short. They also had put a dangerous combination of non boost wheel with spacers to try and line the rotor up.

The problem with driving for such a long way to see a bike is that you'll have already subconsciously decided that you are going to buy it to save wasting your time. It'll be very hard to walk away if its not right!

Obvious ones are mentioned but absolutely get a detailed receipt signed by both parties... Like a used car(work in a garage and we have strict guidelines to warranties depending on how they are purchased and condition etc) be absolutely certain...if it seems dodgy then cover your arse...and look elsewhere..

How do you know the seller is the owner?

Get some proof of his original purchase.

Bought it off a mate in a pub is not sufficient.

Yes, ignore the price / effort to get to view the bike. Good article about the Sunk Cost Fallacy... 🙂

https://youarenotsosmart.com/2011/03/25/the-sunk-cost-fallacy/

Yeti! …waits for gasps!!

[Gasps]

A Yeti?
Without a Warranty?

Check some of the horror stories on this thread first...

But Yeah, always be prepared to walk away if it's not quite right...

#1 - make absolutely sure it's theirs to sell. Original receipt best thing here, but you want to be absolutely damn sure it ain't pinched. Check any paperwork of recent services, especially for suspension.

#2 - Work your way through the bike starting with the stuff that costs the most to fix if it's buggered. This means:
- Frame - check for cracks. Be methodical and don't be afraid to stick it on a stand and take the wheels out so you can see every bit, especially around the narrower bits (chain stays) and the bits that take abuse (downtube). Check around the rear mech hanger for crash damage, or signs it's been bent and straigtened. Check linkage for play by moving the rear triangle from side to side and up and down - if there is, it's likely to just need bearings so you may want to negotiate, but be warned that a bike run for a long time on knackered bearings may well have damaged the bearing seats, especially if they are carbon. Check headset bearings run freely and there's no play. If there is, investigate as may indicate worn bearing seats, especially in carbon frames, which is a show-stopper.
- Suspension - Check for leaks, check for play, check for correct damper operation (especially shocks). Look for cranks around the fork crown and scratches on the stancions. Check that both shock and fork are holding pressure correctly.
- Wheels - run true, all spokes evenly tensioned and matching. No damage to spoke holes on hubs and rims. Rims not dinged or cracked. Tyres not ripped or torn. No obvious gashes in the tread. Remove wheels from bike and check bearings by hand - should run smooth and turn easily. Check freehub bearings in the same way, making sure there's no lateral play in any bearings.
- transmission - Check chain wear. Worn chain beyond 1% means likely expensive drivetrain replacement if you had to replace the chain, which on 1x Eagle is pretty pricey. Check shifter(s) run cleanly from one end to the other. Don't worry if indexing not 100% - recable is cheap as chips. Drop chain from crank and check BB bearings for smooth running. Check rear mech for alignment with frame and jockey wheels are not worn or with dead bearings, easiest done with wheels out and chain loose in frame.
- brakes - not spongy (air leakage), good power, plenty of pad life left. No squealing (contaminated pads, possible leaking calipers).
- bars, seatpost, saddle - wear and obvious signs of damage, especially if carbon. Dropper post should run freely and return easily. Check for play in dropper post bushings by moving saddle when at full extension.

#3 - Give it a ride, being especially aware of slipping gears (indicative of worn transmission) and suspension behaviour. Make sure you know how much stuff costs to fix (shock - £100 service, fork - £similar, linkage bearings - easily £100 upwards if in a shop, transmission refresh - £500 if high-end groupset) as this will aid you in your negotiations. Be prepared to walk if it's not 100% right.

Buy the seller not the bike.

If you're asking this question, I wouldn't buy a yeti...

Your buying a second hand bycycle. I normally just give them a quick visual a pull and prod to make sure everythings tight, check the wheels go round, the gears work and aren't totally worn. Bounce the suspension up and down to check for horrible noises and thats it. Some of you guys sheeeesh 😉

Your buying a second hand bycycle.

Not all used bikes cost £200 you know... He's talking of a bike that costs more than many people would spend on a new one and, speaking personally, this means taking more care than you would over a shop purchase, especially as you'll have no comeback if the frame is cracked when you get home...

thanks guys, I think you have scared me off a 2nd hand purchase. (thats a good thing). The warranty thing was weighing hugely on my mind to be honest, and the faff travelling half way across the country and no comeback if things go wrong.

Good new is that I've found the bike I want, brand new 2019 (ex-display) for only £600 more than the 2nd hand one, with full lifetime frame warranty, and on finance so going for that.

So now, what flat pedals for and enduro bike??...or maybe thats another post.....