You can easily pedal a comfy cadence at 20mph with 32-11
I do need to work on getting my cadence higher particularly on the road bike.
But I can not easily spin at 20 mph on a 32-11.
This is my fatest ever ride on a MTB. I was coming back from somewhere completely on the road and I was probably quite wind assisted. And some was downhill.
[url= https://www.strava.com/activities/386192277 ]link to Ride[/url]
This is on a 29er so already the bike is geared higher. But I have a 42 front / 11 rear.
I have managed to average 17.6 mph, there are periods (on the flat) where im consistently getting 18-19 mph there is no way I would have managed to do this on a 32-11.
I hear alot of people saying they can easily get 20mph on a MTB, but I very rarely managed to consistently average 20mph on my road bike !
My point is that you're so rarely around 20mph pedalling on an mtb that the loss of a big ring is no issue at all for me. I don't do big road miles on the mtb, and if the slope or wind want to push me beyond that 80rpm cadence then I've no problem coasting for a few seconds if it means I can keep my drivechain simpler.
Hmmm.
1x11 transmission is going cheap perhaps not worth selling. Looks like theres no harm in trying it but keeping hold of the 2x10 just in case. I'm going from SLX to XT also so there is some performance / weight saving to be had assuming it works.
https://www.strava.com/activities/467265176
25K on road on a SS 26er running 34/15, so 60gi - average speed just shy of 20mph and I'm hardly the paragon of fitness!
Trouble is Glasgowdan for me on my fatty a 32t ring is too big I'd want a 30t or even 28t for the low gear it gives and then that would leave me with a poor high gear. And I can't use a 10t small cog on my hub. So it's no good for me.
All things being equal I'd take 2x10 over 1x10 as I've never had a problem setting up and maintaining a front mech. However, the good folk at Transition tell me that dropping the front mech allowed them to get the geometry they wanted on my Smuggler and in practice the small reduction in range seems to be a price worth paying.
[url= https://www.strava.com/activities/467265176 ]20 mp on SS[/url]
Thanks for posting this is good to see real evidence.
So I take back alot of what I am saying.
Im unable to say why Im not able to achieve this my self.
I find myself riding at too low a cadence on my Road bike too,
I do try to match my pedal stroke to to the rider in front but I will to return to a lower cadence quite easily. Some days Im better than others.
This may be one of the reasons Im unable to take to 1x. Its actually the higher gears I often miss.
I've done some reading....
So it seems to be more of an issue if you have short chain stays. I'm guessing this is because the chain angle is more acute?
So on my Anthem 29er with 468mm stays, I might have less of an issue?
That ride was on 2.3 street tyres @ 45psi or so, so the speed itself is nothing to boast about! It was more to show that @ 18mph with that gearing it's around 100rpm and it didn't feel uncomfortably high - all my geared bikes are 1x and part of the reason I undergeared the SS was to train my legs to spin better. Flat pedals too btw, not clipped in.
ETA: 18mph on 42/11 on a 29er 2.3 tyre is 54rpm
Why can't I run my 2x10 up front with the 11sp at the back?
Hurry up please, there's some cheap replacement chain rings in the classifieds... 🙂
I imagine the chain will be different. Might work but probably be rough.
[quote=Kryton57 ]Why can't I run my 2x10 up front with the 11sp at the back?
Hurry up please, there's some cheap replacement chain rings in the classifieds...
Stick an 11 speed chain on it and it'll be fine.
Edit: I suggested this on page 1
anyone feeling the need to run a lightweight chain guide with 1x11 XT? am wondering whether if its needed or not (general trail riding, not too much hardcore stuff apart from a couple of enduro races).
Some of the people I know go for lightweight chain guides on the shimano stuff, on SRAM and NW I've only dropped the chain once in anger in 2 years with a good chain, once it was worn it was a problem but I let it get too shagged and was running everything out.
As for speeds and real world
25km Race Stage same bike 1 year apart
2014 2x10 26/38 https://www.strava.com/activities/436215604 2hr 02
2015 1x10 32x11-42 https://www.strava.com/activities/221214954 1hr 49
that was the only stage that was 100% the same over the 2 years, with small variations was faster in 2015, top speeds were similar and even on the time trail stage with plenty of road flat.
I've decided to keep mine and try it out - although I won't sell on the 2 x 10 just yet.
I think a combo of a long chain stay 29er and the fact I should be able to put a 1.5mm spacer behind the cassette should help things.
I also think that that the chances of me back pedalling when changing up to / already in the 42 about to climb a steep hill are fairly minimal, especially now that I'm aware of the issue, and especially when racing.
So, Saturday afternoon will see the Oil filled Rad on in the mancave...
Makes you wonder why the mag reviews of these products at launch don't feedback these niggles as engineering cockups that may need buggering around with. Or maybe we're just too geeky.
I've bought a (cheap, on offer) narrow wide ring in preparation to go 1x at some point, but it's sounding like a lot of faff to get it to work well, lots of variables.
I've got 2x10 (non clutch) XT/deore on my Scandal, 24/36 & 11-36 - it just works flawlessly.
Is 1x perceived as better/having more advantages on full sussers?
Core - Here are Chris Porters views on clutch mechs on full suss:
Another nice little illustration of how the industry works is the clutch mech and thick/thin chainring nonsense. When a rear suspension system moves through its arc it requires chain growth – which is accommodated for by the rear mech. So, if we ‘clutch’ that rear mech, we are adding a friction damper to the rear suspension system. Again we make the suspension a bit worse, but this time to keep the chain on? Which it doesn’t fully achieve anyway. That’s hardly a win/win situation, is it? Try a rough downhill run with the chain removed to feel how good the rear suspension can be, and how much faster the bike goes without motive power! Since writing this Neko Mulally did exactly that at the World’s when a mechanical issue turned into his best result ever –
So, if we ‘clutch’ that rear mech, we are adding a friction damper to the rear suspension system. Again we make the suspension a bit worse, but this time to keep the chain on? Which it doesn’t fully achieve anyway.
A bit, a little, some all quantified amounts. I'll stick with a chain as my bike won't go that we'll on the flat or uphill without one. Most people do a good run chainless as it really pushes you to carry that extra 10%
Again I'll take the clutch mech and thick thin. To make a bike work all round you have to compromise things.
Most people do a good run chainless as it really pushes you to carry that extra 10%
Diverting the thread somewhat but I wonder if any DH teams have seriously looked into developing a bike with no drivetrain? Guess they wouldn't as there would be limited market for it as most peoples backyard DH tracks aren't as steep as WC courses and most people aren't Aaron Gwinn (or Neko).
There was some dude pushing chainless BMX's a while back and had replaced the cranks with a direct mount for pedals to the BB shell.
Well, done. And I lost over 1/2lb (275g) at the same time - SLX to XT as well. Setting up seems to be a tad more faff but hey, it's done.
I too suffer from the chain falling down two cogs if back pedalling. I'm PF bottom bracket so when that's chained I'll see if it can be done with the spacer removed to assist.
However, I went for a practice spin, including a steep slippery hill which required the 42, and as long as you keep pedalling the chain drop isn't an issue. TBH if it was slippery and steep enough to stop the bike in a race I'd probably run on to flat anyway.
I'm happy so far, but need a real ride and a race to test it.
