Every set of Hope Hoops (Pro II + DT Comp) on ZTR rims I’ve had have always been pretty much bang on the Hope estimated weight, very good solid wheels! It’s the only wheels we buy now, 2 sets in the house and buying a third next week (and a set of Hoops with 5.1D, but they don’t count). I’ve tried a few dodgy 24 spoke wheels, never again.

Assuming a Deore HG50 cassette is on there, that’s about 430g for a start (going by the one I took off a Pitch Pro, brand new, this weekend). Lighter tubes can knock off half a pound too, depending on where you’re riding.

Might be worth taking your wheels off and weighing them, to see where the weight is hiding a bit better. Bet it’s all in the wheels, tyres, tubes, rotors, cassette as mentioned.

I’d be cautious of getting too caught up on weight though, unless you really feel it’s holding you back. It’s always quoted as it’s the most obvious quantitative way of comparing two bikes. Every bike I’ve battled to sub 24lbs I’ve absolutely hated.

Yes we had a Superlight in a couple of years ago with their XTish build kit, Rebas etc and it was 27lbs IIRC, they’re far from Superlight!

Every bike I’ve battled to sub 24lbs I’ve absolutely hated.

24!? Good lord, that’s a boat anchor 🙂

Ok, so i told a lie, my Steel HT (456) weighs 25.5lbs 😳

This is measured using an expensive set of fishing scales as well as adding up the sum of parts from the weight weenies web site.

A guess a lot of weight is saved from my carbon forks too, my complete drivetrain is LX and deore so savings too be made there too.

Funny I just posted saying my Superlight felt heavy – what was your mates Superlight built up with?

i had a 98 heckler that weighed 24 – so 23 for a superlite isnt mad … i was full XTR 2×9 and old shape sids,uberlite tires and carbon where carbon was due – served me well as a purely racing bike !
so his must be blinged out to the max

tazzy – i know your pain RE spreadsheets ! – i specced a bike as i wanted – spreadsheeted out the weights and costs then went looking for lighter substitutes that i could still trust ! ended up specing a rigid 29er with rohloff that will weigh about 22.5lbs having started with one that on paper weighed 24lbs. I know when i build it that sub 25 will be more realistic than sub 23 though as is always the way !

RE your bike – rush and superlite are different bikes really …. but no reason your rush couldnt be solid built and weigh 26-28lb – just depends how much money you want to spunk – the wheels are heavy – thomson stuff is heavier than other stuff.

And we are including pedals in all these weights aren’t we?

Plus handy to know the frame size.

tbh Once you’ve got an average FS frame (or steel HT for that matter) and its weighing over 5 lbs (and most nearer 7 lbs) – you need seriously light running gear (and flimsy tyres/tubes) to get down to 25 lbs.

23 lbs for a superlight is pretty good going. My superlight, admittedly is an XL, but is built with hope hoops on 717s, XTR chainset, mechs, shifter and cassette, carbon bars, ti saddle, foam grips, ti bolts all over the place, mono minis, floating rotors, the lightest Rebas, light tyres, ti pedals. It weighs 25 1/2 lbs on my bathroom scales. They are not a very light frame.

24!? Good lord, that’s a boat anchor

I think I’m just not spending enough money. The carbon Zaskar frame I had was pretty hefty and flexy, and the 24 spoke wheels wobbled around every corner.

I’m 6’6″ as well so everything is huge which doesn’t help 🙂 I weighed a stock £4k Scott Spark 10 in XL and that came in at 24lbs last year, I think people often see claims of 20-22lb bikes and assume it’s an easy task getting there, rather than needing lots of sacrifices.

Right, sorry for the delay I have been weighing a few things without getting too silly. Well to be fair Ive just stripped the wheels and seatpost and seat.

Front Rim & Hub – 886g
203 Rotor & Bolts – 208g
Front Skewer – 56g
Tyre & Tube – 850g

Front Wheel Assembly – 886g
Total with Skewer & Tube/Tyre – 2000g
__________________________________________

Rear Rim & Hub – 1098g
180 Rotor & Bolts – 166g
Rear Skewer – 62g
Cassette – 362g
Tyre & Tube – 816g

Rear Wheel Assembly – 1098g
Total with Skewer & Tube/Tyre – 2504g
___________________________________________

Thomson seat post – 296g
Saddle – 316g
___________________________________________

well thats a set of interesting figures.
mmmmmmm my total wheel assembly – 1984g, Pro2’s & Crest – 1491g a saving of 493g/1.09lbs. Thats quite a big saving I guess!!

Finally going to take the plunge on some wheels in the next week.
Ressurecting this thread to see what wheels you’d recommend for general XC riding, to be as light as possible.

Ive found the Stans Flow are 880 F and 1006 R. & as above the Crest build would be 493gsm lighter.

My wheel weights are above (mavic 317 with DT Swiss hubs) I’s like to go for the Hope Pro2 hubs but dont have a preference on the rims, just want to save some weight.

Stans Flow are light for what they are- extremely strong, no-nonsense (downhill world cup winning under Sabrina Jonnier) rims. The sort of thing you get if you want to ride round UK red routes but also occasionally ride down an alp. Overkill for most people’s XC…

23 lbs eh… 😉

🙂 it’ll take more that a set of wheels I reckon to get there…. I have however a stihl saw in the garage, that’ll shed a few pounds.

Stan flows wont save me much weight really. 100gsm ish, thats a big outlay for little gain.

my wheels feel pretty light – pro2s and stans 355 rims, what are the new equivalent? Crests?

Found the 355’s at 813 Front / 925 Rear, slightly lighter that the Flow’s.

Pro 2 front for the axle options, and Pro 3 rear as they weigh less?

Stan flows wont save me much weight really. 100gsm ish, thats a big outlay for little gain.

As long as its less than a £ per gram, you’re fine 😉

justridingalong will do you a set of handbuilt ztrhubs/arch rims for £273 – 1618g, the front hub converts from qr/15mm/20mm. That’ll save you a fair whack. A bit of care in choosing new tires, and you’ll have lost a couple of pounds .
I’ve been running Arches on Pro2’s for 3 years, no problems, only dinged the rear a couple of times. They’re still a good compromise rim, but a bit out of favour since the factory built Hope Hoops can’t be bought with them, so handbuilts normally cost a bit more.

cheers for that vinny.
Will all these rims take tubes? May be digging myself a big hole if they done.