I had myself a ztr flow rim built onto a nukeproof hub by a reputable lbs recently.
I went out to morzine end of July, this being the first time the wheel would get properly ridden and the spokes came loose, and I mean really loose after half a day of riding.
I got it re-tensioned and trued in a bike shop, took it out next day over to les linderettes, same thing, several spokesh worked themselves as loose as string. Had it re-tensioned again by a mechanic then the next day and every day after that it happened with a few spokes again, only this time I re-tensioned them myself as I couldn't afford the shops anymore.
When I got home I took the wheel back, they completely rebuilt it again with new spokes. This weekend I did a couple of loops at coed y brenin and **** me if it ain't worked loose again!
I've never encountered this before on any wheel, this is the first time I've had a more expensive and you'd have thought better build, and yet this looks to be the pattern of maintenance I'm doomed for.....
Any ideas what the problem could be folks?
I had a similar issue with a Crest rim and it was due to the tyre being too tight on the rim, screwing up the spoke tension and allowing one or two [non-drive side] to unwind
Some tubeless ready tyres are far too tight for Stan's rims
ask the shop that built it to linseed oil the spoke nipple threads
my 355s are similar
and alot of folk i rode in the alps who had stans with required my tensioning services at night
no eyelets - lower tension. they back off easier - rack up the tension and they will crack (i did that to my first 355 rim ....)
compressive hoop load from a tire which has a comparitively stretchy bead ....
im not wholely convinced by that theorem
compressive hoop load
*s****s*
Seriously that's BS right there. The low tension is probably it, esp if the NDS flange is close to the disc.
I'd suggest loctite
id suggest low grade loctite or prolock nipples - dont just use 242 cause its what you have handy - i foresee from experiance rounded nipples in 6 months time .....
BTW - my info came from JRA [who built the wheels] and from a reply from notubes
So although there may well be some spin [ 🙂 ] put on it, I have no reason to doubt the info
As mentioned above, I'd get them rebuilt using DT Spokes and Prolock nips and make sure your wheel builder tensions all of the spokes using a DT Tensiometer and uses correct stressing methods throughout.
I've never had any issues using the above system and I've built hundreds of wheels for many happy customers 😀
Loctite 222 for low strength.
Not sure if it's very relevant, but back ten or even twenty years, you would always try and get a good couple of rides / miles in with a new wheel set before going on a trip or racing and then if necessary take them back into the shop for re-tensioning.
I've been to a few xc-races where brand new wheels have literally shaken apart, mind you not mine......
Not sure if this is the same for modern wheel set's.
G 😐
Pro lock nips definitely the way forward
Taken it back to lbs. They seem puzzled as they say its been a very popular build onto these rims lately and they've not had any others back.
I mentioned pro-lock nipples and loctite and they said that they did build them with thread lock there already. I find this hard to believe what with all the problems but we'll see what happens from here...
Can't see tyre beads affecting anything, that sounds like proper twaddle to me! The tyre is infinitely more stretchy than the rim is likely to compress. If they're oiling the nipples the spoke freeze may not be taking, seems odd otherwise.
I think the theory goes something like - the drive side spokes are under more tension so when a very tight tyre is inflated it can slightly shift the rim causing loose spokes sometimes
I've seen a few posts on the notubes forum about it and others
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/wheels-tires/tubless-tire-=-25kg-spoke-tension-drop-246019.html