I take it they’re not if the prices vary from £11 to £80 for two very similar looking locks from two well known brands.

Does anyone still pick locks ?
I assume it’s all either hydraulic bolt cutter (bulky, but quiet) or cordless angle grinder (noisy, but compact) these days.
Is a more expensive lock really any harder to cut through ?

Yes.

Er…one question in the title, two more in the post, yet only one answer.
I’m confused.

I’ve seen one of the cheap black u-locks with red bands (Argos used to sell them branded as Muddy Fox) being picked outside a busy shopping centre. Took the kid doing it about 30 seconds. I got on the phone to the police but by the time I’d got through to an operator he had picked the lock and ridden off with it slung over his bars. I doubt that £11 lock is much better.

It’s fairly easy to pop a skinny U-lock with a car jack, as demonstrated here:

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoqNC7aUeXI[/video]

http://www.lfgss.com/thread17938.html

Yes, I’d already searched youtube and found this lot
I haven’t watched them all, but it’s not very confidence inspiring.

Thanks jamiep, I was looking for a list of reviews like that.

Plumbers pipe-freeze used to be the tool of choice on cheap u-locks.

Just freeze it then whack hard with a hammer to shatter the metal/lock components.

Don’t know if they still do this though.

Krypto mini evo, bish bosh job done

Posted this before, but here’s my U-lock review:

http://www.stolenbristolbikes.com/2012/06/product-test-my-pre-2004-kryptonite.html

onguard and kryptonite locks used were considered decent, best to have a mini and a big one! or a chain to lock to a anchor at home

mr agreeable i dont see the relevance of that review now. you cant pick the new ones like this

Abus Granite or a good Kryptonite. Depends what else you use as to where you are leaving the bike and for how long. Not all situations are equal.

I use a Kryptonite New York through the rear and frame and a Kryptonite Evo mini for the front. The Krypto New York weighs 2 or 3 kilo’s and the Krypto mini under a kilo.

Maybe 2 Evo mini’s would suffice..

Just shopped for a new lock, so got some advice. Have a look at the Sold Secure website, that will give you an idea of relative performance. The better they are, generally, the heavier. Some are right monsters!

It’s also a good idea to have a U lock and a cable lock, different tools to cut ’em.

Also, it’s not just about security. Will the lock fit inside the frame for mounting (I had trouble here, tiny frame)? And how’s the bracket, make sure it secures the lock well, with no rattling, and that it’s easy to get the lock in and out.

I finally went for the Trelock FS 455.

APF

Thanks, alexpalacefan, this is a useful list.

I don’t want to give away too much detail, but my bike storage arrangements might have to change soon, so I’m looking for something for shed use. Weight is not a problem. I’ve even thought about some sort of scaffold pole threaded through the frame(s) and anchored or locked at both ends.

mr agreeable i dont see the relevance of that review now

Just did it to point out that even a crap out-of-date U-lock is better than a cable lock.

The Sold Secure listing is the only recognised test standard by UK police & insurers – it’s scary how easy some locks can overcome.

If you don’t have a solid anchor point then you could try Nobby’s Bucket’o’crete – buy a second U lock, a large builders bucket and a bag of ready mix concrete. Put a stick though the lock & lower it into the bucket (locking end down) and rest stick on either side of bucket. Mix concrete up then pour into bucket to just below the top then allow to set – suggest you do this in the vicinity of bike storage area. Once set you have a very heavy & awkward anchor point to lock your bike(s) too which is far better than simply attaching something to the fabric of a timber shed.

MTG, if you’re keeping your bike in a shed, this is pretty useful:

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/how-to-toughen-up-your-bike-shed-part-1-21131/

A decent ground anchor and chain will stop them to some extent but if you’ve got easily floggable components like suspension forks it’s not unknown for thieves to just strip or cut through the frame.

ave a look at the Sold Secure website, that will give you an idea of relative performance

The key word here is “Relative”. You need to bear in mind that the sold secure ratings are basically just advertising waffle put together by the manufacturers of the locks themselves. If I remember correctly the definitions for each rating go along the lines of:
“Sold Secure Gold locks will typically withstand an attack by thieves using a variety of tools that no self respecting thief would dream of using to steal a bike. When faced with a professional thief using their tools of choice a SS Gold lock will provide almost no benefit at all but will be slightly better than the SS Silver Lock”

worthless

Apologies, I did have the intention of coming back with something more helpful, but then forgot!

IMO if you take the few anomalies out of the equation (Kryptonite/Biro incidents) then as with any lock there’s a pretty strong correlation between cost and strength of lock.

LFGSS probably have the most useful recommedations on locks, boils down to Kryptonite Evo/Fagh mini x2 ususally though.

Almax chain, knocks spots off all the sold secure rubbish

Generalist, really? D’Oh! Never mind, it’s done now

APF

None of it matters in a shed / outbuilding. You need to make it difficult to get to the bikes. Several bike thefts in the Bristol area have had the frames cut because the parts can be fenced and are most of the value.

I thought that lock in the video held up pretty well…!!!

If its U-locked around something, & done properly as in the lock is “full” there wouldnt be any room to get a decent jack in.

2 small high quality locks (NY evo or faggedaboutit), one through back wheel and frame and sheffield bar, other through the front wheel and down tube,

you want to make it difficult for the scrote to get a portable bottle jack inside the lock because these pop the lock apart where the hoop inserts to the body

the more expensive ones have larger diameter and hardended steel u bits and probably better locks too

That BikeRadar article is all common sense really, there’s nothing much new there.
The superglue idea is a bit odd. Nyloc nuts would do the same job easier.