Has anyone used either specialized 2bliss or bontrager tlr tubeless ready tyres. Have been using standard maxxis tubeless for a while but as the bead is quite loose it sometimes takes a while to seat properly and wondered if tyres with a tighter bead might be a better idea. Will be fitted to 717 rims with stans rim strips and sealent.
Cheers
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Tubeless ready tyres
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Posted 1 year ago #
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Fitted my Bonty Mud X to 717 disc rims with noflats rims strip - went up straight away without even sealant. Easy. (Obviously I did add sealant afterwards)
Posted 1 year ago # -
2Bliss are not air tight they need sealant. I use them though and they are fine on the front for me.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Yeah was planning on using sealant with them, sounds like the bonty's have a good tight bead and I like the look of the xr2 tyres, not too sure about the specialized at the moment.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Used an Bonty XR4 TLP on the rear over winter, goes up easily enough with rim strip and sealant.
Posted 1 year ago # -
I am having trouble getting a continental x-king racesport sealed up at the moment, keeps going down after about an hours riding, starting to think its coming away at the rim (burping) rather than just leaking air through the walls as it stays up fine when the bikes not ridden, hope I can get it to work as it feels great when it is inflated.
I have about 150ml of stans fluid in it now, and will give it a few more rides to seal up, but am beginning to think it may be a problem.Posted 1 year ago # -
I only use 100ml in my 29er wheels. Sounds to me like the tyre bead isn't secure enough (or you're running too low pressures but I've gone as low as 25 with no burping).
Posted 1 year ago # -
I have always used full ust tyres before without a problem, these are very light and are causing me more of a problem, they are tubeless ready rather than sealed ust tyres.
I am running them at 45psi for now.
Posted 1 year ago # -
I use maxxis LUST tyres on mavic 823's. I put an ignitor on the other day which had been twisted up under a stack of wheels and I put it on with my thumbs, pumped it up with a lezyne mini pump! I really don't see the faff in this tubless biz
Posted 1 year ago # -
MSP I had the same issue with my Mountain King RaceSports. I stuck the inflated tyre in a bath of water and the sidewalls were leaking a lot. I had to spend quite a lot of time with the wheel horizontal wiggling it to distribute the sealant around the tyre properly. I use 150ml of sealant per tyre but they are fine now.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Also using Specialized 2Bliss and can confirm they do need sealant to keep them inflated. They are however pretty light and since you'll probably run sealant in any UST tyre, they save a good 200g total over something like a Maxxis UST High Roller.
Posted 1 year ago # -
can't get bonty mud x to inflate on my 819's
what can I do to ease my grief?
Posted 1 year ago # -
I really don't see the faff in this tubless biz
Neither can I with some combinations but I can with others...
bruneep - are you sure the tyre beat is properly seated on the rim - eg not in the well?
Posted 1 year ago # -
Have used XR4s & other Bonty Tyres onto Bontrager Tubeless Ready rims with No Flats sealant. - brilliant.
Recently used Nobby Nics UST with great success but a barsteward to get on, even resorted to a screwdriver for the last bit. I leave them over night with 60lbs in to seat the beads well - just turn the wheel over a few times to spread the sealant.Posted 1 year ago # -
Personally don't like Specialized 2Bliss tyres, they're paper thin - you can see the sealant suppurating out through the sidewalls... Of course, that means they're light, too. YMMV.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Im running the eskar front and purgotry rear, ive only had 1 ride on them so far, they were fine, pumped up to 40lb ish, they went on and up easily too , and have stayed up, they are light and i have not ridden them in tPeak dist yet, which will be the best test area for me, and normally sorts the worthy from the none worthy out.
Posted 1 year ago # -
I've used Specialized Fast Trak 2Bliss tyres at 45psi with a 95kg rider on a hard tail.
Yes, the sidewalls are thin, you can see the sealant oozing through when you first blow them up. Once they are sealed though, it's not a problem.
I did have one mystery sidewall puncture, although I suspect it may have been a stray bit of barbed wire, rather than a fault with the tyre.
I put a plug in and kept riding. The tyre was almost bald anyway, so I scrapped it after another two weeks with the plug still doing its job.In short, I'd buy them again. Or Continental Race Kings. Whichever was on offer at the time.
Posted 1 year ago # -
i've been using stan's kits for a few about 5 yrs now trouble free but have found that Conti tires need cleaning out with thinners as the release agent from the mold stops stan's from sealing
Posted 1 year ago # -
That's interesting, Whyte, I hadn't found that, but then thinking about it, I don't think I've ever tubelessed a brand new Continental.
I think they had all been run with tubes for a while first, so maybe the release agent had worn off naturally.Posted 1 year ago # -
Can anyone point me in the direction of an idiot's guide to going tubeless please? I run Specialized Eskars front and rear on my 2010 Pitch Pro and have had more than enough of stupid punctures (the latest was last night, which nicely coincided with my trail pump deciding to spill its guts everywhere which meant a long walk home).
Anyway, any help gratefully received - I'm sure it's not difficult, I just need to confirm exactly what I need and how I go about seating the tyres.
Thanks,Andy
Posted 1 year ago # -
Stans site is the best
Posted 1 year ago # -
bruneep - Member
can't get bonty mud x to inflate on my 819's
what can I do to ease my grief?
i cant see as you will, it took me a compressor to get it seated last time, absolute pig to get on
shame bonty dont do UST tyres, as the mud x is an amazing tyre - that said, since its been on (october 2010) ive not had a ounce of trouble since - 6 months on!
worth the initial hassle is all i can say!
Posted 1 year ago # -
Get a CO2 inflator that works with unthreaded cartridges (they are cheaper). Buy a nice big box off air gun suppliers on EBay for a reasonable price. Use this to inflate/seat the bead initially, then let it down, add sealant via the removable valve core.
You could also fit a tube to seat most of the bead, but you have to get it back out spoiling the effect slightly, and I am the epitome of laziness - change tyres once in spring once in winter and one big cart does both wheels (usually) so it isn't too extravagant.. plus you now have a CO2 inflator to take on rides for quick repairs (just to inflate a tube - it'll ball the sealant, so try a mini pump first if you think the sealant will sort the issue).
Posted 1 year ago # -
I converted my Spesh 2Bliss tyres last year before going to Spain.
Purgatory on the front & Captain on the rear. The Captain is quite a tight fit, whereas the Purgatory is quite loose; I can get it on the rim with no levers required. Not sure it that's manufacturing variation or what? I had two moments where the tyres burped in Spain and lost pretty much all air sending me sprawling. But, I think this was partly down to my inexperience. I'd picked up punctures, lost air pressure and hadn't been topping them up. I think they were quite low when they burped.
They go up really easily on the DT Swiss rims the bike came with. I just use a track pump and a bit of vigorous punmping.
I've ridden the tyres in the Peaks and a week of rocky Spain riding and I had no issues with the thin sidewalls; didn't think they were that thin to be honest and I've not noticed sealant seeping through. I do ride like a bit of a wuss though and am not overly heavy, so don't normally have problems with tyres.
Posted 1 year ago # -
another newbie to tubeless.....have had a look at the Stans site, thanks....few questions if I can.....
1. New bike has Mavic tubless rims and tubeless ready tyres, Rocket Rons. add some sealant and get them inflated and I should be good to go? or do I need rim tape. anything else?
2. I like tyres 30-35psi, that OK?
3. If the tyre does go down when I'm out on a long ride can you generally just pump it up again and it will get you home? Do you guys carry a tube for just-in-case?
4. Is it worth it? I'm sick and tired of slow punctures in dry summer and pinch flats on big mountain rides.....will it stop these? It does sound like a bit of faff to get them going initially, but worth it in the long run?
5. Is there a weight penalty?
Thanks
Posted 1 year ago # -
1.No if you have UST rims then you don't need rim tape.
2.30-35psi is OK. Check on the tyre wall for the recommended inflation pressure.
3. The idea is that the sealant fills the whole up before you even notice you have had a puncture. If it is a split/gash then yiou'll need an inner tube to get you home.
4.For people who use UST they know the real answer is yes.
5. UST tyres are heavier than regular tyres which is why tubeless ready offer light weight but at the expense of puncture protection. (more for racing IMO)Posted 1 year ago # -
4. Is it worth it? I'm sick and tired of slow punctures in dry summer and pinch flats on big mountain rides.....will it stop these? It does sound like a bit of faff to get them going initially, but worth it in the long run?
I did mine last year prior to going out to Spain for a week as I didn't want the prospect of another holiday with 3 punctures/day.
It took a couple of hours of fiddling about before I got them inflated OK - most of that was putting electrical tape on the rims as they aren't tubeless ready.
Once up, they were fine apart from a couple of burping incidents that I put down to my inexperience with them - while in Spain I had 'no' punctures that were noticeable, although I was obviously puncturing as they needed occasional topping up.
Since then I've had no issues at all with them until a few weeks ago when the front started deflating in a day or two. I've added more sealant and it seems to be OK for now, although I've not really had the time to look into it properly.
The rear seems to just keep going. Very rarely needs topping up (probably the same as a tube).Posted 1 year ago # -
Thanks....I'm thinking specifically of Southern Spain later in the year. Big up and down days on a Ti Hardtail, lots of thorns and loads of very fast rocky descents where I just pinch and pinch at any kind of sensible tyre pressure. Thats the key for me, I'm not all that talented, I really like a nice soft tyre on sketchy switchbacks but it does mean i'm always one bump away from a flat.
Posted 1 year ago # -
That was why I converted - pinch flats - I was having to run at 40-50 psi even with reasonably wide 2.2/2.3" tyres to avoid pinches on bigger/sharper rocks. Now down to around 30 psi on tubeless with no problems and they strangely don't seem to roll any slower.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Thanks....I'm thinking specifically of Southern Spain later in the year. Big up and down days on a Ti Hardtail, lots of thorns and loads of very fast rocky descents where I just pinch and pinch at any kind of sensible tyre pressure. Thats the key for me, I'm not all that talented, I really like a nice soft tyre on sketchy switchbacks but it does mean i'm always one bump away from a flat
I was out with Ciclo Montana - so yes to Southern Spain. It was a revelation not having to stop and mess up the flow of a great ride to deal with another thorn puncture!!
If you want to run relatively low pressures, I'd be inclined to look for a solution that can cope better with low pressure than my bodge job seemed to (electrical tape & tubeless ready tyres, not UST).
My first tyre burp came when traversing a large, steeply off camber slab of rock. The tyre deformed, pulling the bead away from the rim and the whole tyre went pffffft, flat. The bike slid down the rock & I landed hard on the side of my thigh. Cue 10 mins of totally dead leg & was bruised & stiff for the rest of the week.Just re-read your post & from the sounds of it you are ready to go with tubeless and it'll be a 'proper' solution. I'd still take some tubes out with you, something to get the valve out with if you need to put a tube in (I have to do my valve up effing tight to get it to seal, so need a leatherman to get it off) and some sealant so you can top up if need be during the week.
Posted 1 year ago # -
spesh control 2bliss sidewalls are thick/strong
Posted 1 year ago # -
Thanks for the link Shred!
Posted 1 year ago # -
@ Whyte 1:
I'm interested in your observation about Conti tyres.
What sort of thinners do you use and are you confident nothing else gets damaged in the process?
Cheers,
P&R
Posted 1 year ago # -
out with FreeRideSpain last year I was running what I would consider to be barely enough air in the tyres and the grip on the rocks was amazing. Bontrager 2.35 XR4s on Bontrager rims with Stans milk in them and no pinches or thorn punctures at all. That was on a Dialled Alpine with 140mm Revs though I'm no heavyweight at around 10.5 stone.
Just can't be arsed with punctures anymore, tubeless everywhere for me.
Posted 1 year ago # -
OK, so I'm still struggling to understand exactly what I'll need to convert my existing setup to tubeless. I ride a 2010 Pitch Pro which has (and I'm quoting from the Specialized site now) - Pitch Disc specific, 26mm, pin joint, eyelets, 32h rims. The wheels currently have Specialized Control Eskar 2Bliss tyres on.
So, is it possible, bearing in mind the existing rims, to go tubless with this setup? If it is, what do I need?
1) Rim tape
2) Stans sealant (how much?)
3) Specific valves?
4) Anything else?Sorry for the repeat question, but my befuddled brain just aint getting this at all.
Cheers,Andy
Posted 1 year ago #
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