Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)
  • Tell me about 1X9 setups
  • uphillcursing
    Free Member

    In the process of building a collection of various bits into a bike. Toying with the idea of a 1X9 setup.

    Will I need a chain device of some kind? Especially if using a ramped chainring? Would a single speed chainring eliminate the need for a device?

    Thanks in advance? Fingers hovering on the “but it now button”.

    thomthumb
    Free Member

    you will need something if it is for more than sedate off roading.

    morgs
    Free Member

    I was going to do this with my commuter but my chainset meant it couldn’t happen….

    IIRC, a ramped chainring will be fine so long as you have some kind of device – even if it’s an old front mech*

    *I stand ready to be flamed!

    Trimix
    Free Member

    I would go for 1×10 – unless your very fit and dont plan to ride steep hills. You can get a 23t front and a 36-12 rear, that will give you a ratio close to a couple of gears harder than granny would have been normally.

    Of course, you may find 1×9 fine.

    You will probably need something to keep the chain on the top part of the front ring – Superstar do good cheap ones. Also get a front ring that has deep teeth, more suited to single speeding. This helps keep the chain on.

    Most of my riding mates tell me their chain has come off without a device and all of them recommend a specific SS style ring up front.

    mangoridebike
    Full Member

    SS Chainring will help but won’t be foolproof. Everyone is different as there are lots of factors that can make a difference.

    Keeping the chain short can help but I’ve found that a front mech is sufficient for me, just wind the limit screw out until it sits in the right position

    njee20
    Free Member

    You can get a 12-36 9 speed cassette (although admittedly it’s a heavy HG80 one). In 10 speed you can get an 11-36, which gives a wider range.

    I use 1×10 with an 11-36 with a 36t ring, which I really like. I’d probably not bother on a heavier bike though.

    Definitely need a guide, irrespective of chainring type, I like my Superstar one.

    dazzlingboy
    Full Member

    Running 1×9 with a 32 front and 12-36 rear. Can ride everything I could with a granny ring and I’m no hero. Have to push hard sometimes admittedly!

    Tried using a roller type Blackspire Stinger chain device from my bigger bike – bottom only – and this was the biggest failure ever – chain was coming off every other minute – waste of time. Have just fitted a new E13 XCX and problem solved.

    Chain device is essential imo otherwise major faffing.

    mcboo
    Free Member

    I would go for 1×10 – unless your very fit and dont plan to ride steep hills. You can get a 23t front and a 36-12 rear, that will give you a ratio close to a couple of gears harder than granny would have been normally.

    Mmmmmmmm. Youre going to spin right out if you ride with a 23t up front. 32 and 11-34 is fine for everything in winter, 34 on the front in the dry.

    I just use an old front mech as a chain guide, works fine. You def need something.

    Scamper
    Free Member

    Recently swaped to 1×9 using 11-34 and 32 single speed specific ring. Quite a revelation i’ve found. I’m not fit, but found i’ve been able to just about get up everything i could in the old granny ring, helped by the bike being stripped back to 23lbs. Currently using a down tube superstar chain device – chain occasionally falls off, especially down steps. Oh, and the 32 doesn’t really spin out until you are flying on the road.

    uphillcursing
    Free Member

    Thanks guys, I will have a look at the Superstar devices. Am I right in thinking that the BB mounted ones are the most elegant solution?

    The bike is going to be a weight weight (within reason) mince-core commuter/ride with kids kind of thing. But from what I have read I will 100% need some kind of device.
    Here is another question. Need a new mech anyway, so, should I get short cage?

    Clink
    Full Member

    If you need a shifter I’ve got an XT 9 speed RH one for sale. E-mail in profile. 😀

    I’m currently using an On-one stainless steel chairing, which works well. http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/CROOSS/on_one_stainless_chainring

    TandemJeremy
    Free Member

    mince-core commuter/ride with kids

    In that case an unramped chainring in the middle position and shorten the chain as far as you can and it will be fine without a chain device IME. I used to run a commuter like this. Mrs TJ still does and chain drop is a very very occasional thing

    Yo can always try it out and add one later if you do get issues

    sailor74
    Free Member

    ive been running 1×9 for a long time on my trail bike (Orange Blood), 32T front ring and 11-34t on the rear. It will take a little time to acclimatize, probably 4-6 weeks, but after that its all good. If you are the kind of rider who just has to get up every climb it wont suit you, if however you dont mind the odd push as a trade off for a simpler setup, quieter running bike, totally secure chain (full device) then you will love it.

    I did try 1×10 for a while. 1×9 is a compromise, 1×10 however is barely a compromise and had it not been for the fact I couldnt get it to run sweetly (chain line issues) then I would have stuck with it.

    Back to 1×9 now and not looking back.

    Re what mech, for commute is doesnt matter and a medium will give you the option to go back to a double up front. If you wanted it for full on riding then short cage is the way to go.

    njee20
    Free Member

    Mmmmmmmm. Youre going to spin right out if you ride with a 23t up front.

    I assumed that was a typo – surely no one would use a ring that small!?

    Oh, and the 32 doesn’t really spin out until you are flying on the road.

    I dunno, particularly if you opt for the 12-36 cassette, a 32/12 isn’t a particularly tall gear. I like my 36/11 at times off road, start of races and what not particularly.

    Think it depends a lot on the type of rider you are, I’d not stick with a single ring unless I could ride everything I could with a multi-gear set up, which I can! If I felt it was a comprimise I’d be back on a double myself. YMMV of course!

    You may get away without a guide for that sort of riding, but if you find out that you don’t as you pedal away from some traffic lights out of the saddle it won’t end well! £15 or so for a Superstar guide, no brainer IMO!

    Scienceofficer
    Free Member

    I’ve been running 1×9 on my 5spot, built as a light-ish trail bike, for about a year.

    At first I ran 34 front, with 11-32, which was fine for my local hills but not as versatile as I wanted for big days away.

    It also felt like I was wasting traction from the suspension because the pedal torque was causing me to break traction with the ground on the more dusty or muddy stuff. No problems with top-speed pedaling though.

    This is intended to be my go-anywhere, do-anything bike, and I felt it was a little too restricted, so I put a 32T chainring on the front which was a bit better traction/torque wise, but felt a little too slow at the other end of the block.

    I’ve now settled with an 11-34T cassette and the 32T chainring. Its just the right side of the traction/torque issue for nearly any climb I care to go at, and I’ve accepted that until I switch to 10spd, the higher speeds will be slightly limited.

    Just for peace of mind, I run the shortest chain I can get away with, an SS chainring and and XCX chain device.

    rOcKeTdOg
    Full Member

    renthal 32T chainring x 12:36 cassette, BBG bash and N-Stop, hasn’t dropped the chain on local, welsh and scottish trails

    BBG bash by rOcKeTdOgUk, on Flickr

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