Now I might not have ever had a job where I had to get the right tension in threaded fasteners, however I am aware of the normal procedures used in industry (by those who actually know what they’re doing). You appear to suggest that a dry thread is better than a lubricated one, when it is common knowledge that lubrication reduces the torque-tension scatter you get with dry threads because of the large variation in the friction. The correct quoted torque value should always be for a lubricated thread as that gives far better repeatability of tension – if necessary that torque value should be lower than for a theoretical dry thread to account for the decreased friction.
What’s more you then compound that by suggesting ensuring there is no oil on the thread without detailing how you do that. The typical wipe of an oily thread with a cloth/rag leaves a thin film of oil which provides much the same lubricating effect under high torque/tension as a well oiled thread.
Most critical bolts are of course tightened wet. Thread oiled, dried between washer and seating face and wet again between washer on bolt head. Standard procedure.
Don’t forget we are talking about bolts going onto bicycles here which will be designed to be tightened dry. The torque specified by the manufacturer will be dry torque as well. I will be surprised if you haven’t cause damage on your bike if you lube the threads/seating face and do them up to the specific torque!
The torque value for wet/dry thread is very different. Doing a wet joint up to dry torque will most likely cause damage.
For me, clean = oil free, perhaps I should have made that a bit clearer? I suggest copper slip anyway.
