super glue instead of loctite – will I die?
You what??? 🙄
Loctite is a brand….they make threadlock compounds and also super glue.
Which bit do you need it for? I don’t use threadlock on any cranksets, I just make sure they’re nipped up tight. I wouldn’t use superglue though, regardless. I get the feeling it wouldn’t be that effective either as a glue or a threadlock in this application.
It won’t come loose in 10 miles without threadlock. So I wouldn’t worry about it.Posted 5 years agonicholas_yiuSubscriber
Superglue will be fine temporarily but it deteriorates when it comes in contact with water.
However, as said above, no threadlock is fine. If the correct torque is applied and thread condition is ok so that it achieve designed bolt tension, it will never come loose.Posted 5 years agoaracerSubscriber
What’s wrong with a dab of grease like us unqualified commoners use?
I’ll have you know I also just use grease*, and I’m a software engineer.
*except on the Campag UT cranks on my roadie, where after struggling long and hard with my principles I used Loctite as directed in the instructions.Posted 5 years ago
Nothing rob cos its your bike and you look after it so it will be reet
But if you are preping something for someone else you want to make sure it will do what it’s supposed to with out being looked after.
The op is worrying about nowt really as he clearly fettles his own bike so it will probably get checked long before it ever comes loose .Posted 5 years agonicholas_yiuSubscriber
No one seem to take my comments seriously, I use to be an engineer specialised in threaded fasteners. (now middle management with a Orange 5 of course) I have a Master Degree in Mechanical Engineering and spent 4 years working out torques on critical bolts on engines. 😆
Back on topic:
For general bike maintenance, you should take notice of the following:
Thread lock is only useful if you haven’t torque your bolts up properly.
Remember, it’s clamping force that keeps your parts together, torque does not equal to clamping force
If you are experienced, a calibrated elbow is usually better than a torque wrench as torques are very low on bikes and you can very easily miss the click and end up damaging your components.
Always clean the thread before doing it back up. Ensure there is no thin oil on the thread and tighten to the specified torque. If the thread is dirty, even if it reach the specified torque, the clamping force will be low and it might come loose. If the thread is oily, it will be over tightened and damage your components.
A trick is to use copper slip. It’s been experimentally proven that copper slip will return the thread friction coefficient very close to fresh threads. This is where the joint is designed to achieve the correct clamping force after tightening to the correct torque.
Thanks for reading.Posted 5 years agoandylMember
I don’t use copper slip on my bike (and some parts on my car) but I do use plenty on general car bolts. I do use ceramic based anti-seize that is safe for plastics and rubbers on the bike and some car areas.
As for superglue it will be fine but only use a tiny dab znd it will break away easily. But leaving remnants of dried broken glue on threads is not ideal for next time and should be cleaned off. Chances are it won’t stick well anyway due to grease as shimano do put their lovely green grease in the crank bolt holes (I need to find who makes that grease as it is very good).
BUT you MUST make sure that the bolts are tight enough to begin with (ie torqued up correct) as it won’t matter if your bolts are secure if they are not providing sufficient clamping force and the crank is fretting away on the splines.Posted 5 years ago
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