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Stumpjumper FSR for Peak?

19 posts & 8 voices | Started 1 year ago by fattatlasses | Latest reply from looneylunn

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fattatlasses - Member

I'm currently shopping around for a new 140mm FS bike, and today I demo'd one of the latest Stumpy FSR's. Though there was a lot to like about the bike, I found I was getting a lot more pedal strikes in ruts than usual (the amount of sag was just within the saggier end of Spesh's recommended level - it improved a bit when I pumped the rear shock up to the firmer end of the range).

Just wondered if there are any Stumpy FSR owners out there who ride in the Peak, Dales & Lakes a lot? If so, can you tell me how you get on with the bike please.

TIA

Posted 1 year ago #
fattatlasses - Member

err...Anyone?

Posted 1 year ago #
boriselbrus - Member

I take my stumpy to the peaks fairly regularly and sometimes i think a higher bb would be good, but the vsdt majority of the time, i prefer it being a bit lower as it handles better and i feel less 'perched'. I did have a bike with higher bb and hated it - felt very unstable.

Posted 1 year ago #
fattatlasses - Member

I did have a bike with higher bb and hated it - felt very unstable.

Yeah, I used to have a Marin Wolf Ridge that was like that, and it was bloomin' awful. I guess it's always a balance between ground clearance and handling.

I think part of the problem I was having with the Stumpy was that the demo bike I tried had the Brain-type shock. Most of the time I rode with the 'Brain' completely switched off, in an attempt to mimic the 'normal' Triad shock. I guess the bike was settling into its full sag more readily with the Brain off(?).

I'm guessing both Triad equipped bikes would sit up in their travel a bit more with the PP lever on? Is this what you find with your Stumpy?

Posted 1 year ago #
stumpy01 - Member

I've got a 2010 Stumpy FSR & have been to the Peaks a few times on it.

It feels great, as would other similar bikes I suspect.
Not really noticed lots of pedal strikes to be honest.

It climbs really well, especially if u drop the fork a bit on the climbs and gives me plenty of confidence when descending.

This years range look really good with the double ring set-up.

Get one before end of April & u get 10% of the value in Spesh kit.

Posted 1 year ago #
stumpy01 - Member

I originally bought the 2010 Elite with the Fox Triad. Pro Pedal does help the bike sit up a bit.

I originally demo'd the Expert with a Brain & wasn't overly fussed if I had it or not. I ended up getting the Elite with a Triad but after 7 months or so there was a problem with the paint and they warranty replaced it with the carbon version with the Brain shock.

Now I've used both, I have to say that I do like the Brain shock. I wouldn't run it fully open though unless I was on a long technical descent.
I tend to run it either fully firm or about halfway open. I tried it fully open once & it felt too soft.

Posted 1 year ago #
fattatlasses - Member

Ah, cheers for the info Stumpy01 - that's very helpful. The model I'm looking at is the Carbon Comp, so carbon front triangle and Triad shock. (I've been borrowing a newish Orange Five, so don't have a problem with regular PP lever flicking for climbs!) I've only had a 20 minute 'car-park test' of the carbon FSR, but was really impressed by the stiffness and acceleration.

The demo bike I tried was an aluminium framed 'elite' with Brain shock, which apart from the pedal tapping, I really liked. IMO, it feels very similar in character to the Five but, understandably I guess, the suspension has a much more refined feel. I loved the way it carved the corners, and the grip it gave under hard & late braking. Oh, also pleasantly surprised and impressed by the 2x10 gears on it.

Interesting that you've got experience of both Ally and Carbon frames - do you find the Carbon frame a lot stiffer in the steering department?

Posted 1 year ago #
stumpy01 - Member

Nope, I haven't noticed any difference in steering stiffness between carbon & ally. Although they stuck the original 1 1/8 fork into the carbon frame rather than a tapered one. Not sure I would notice the difference to be honest, though.

Posted 1 year ago #
AirconAde - Member

Sorry to hijack the thread but what paint issues did you have with the stumpy? I to have a 2010 elite (silver) and have lots of areas where clear coat is lifting and the alloy is starting to go white under the paint.
As a bike to ride it's a great all rounder, I find it spot on for the natural trails here in mid wales and good for trail centre stuff as well as epic all day enduro's.

Watch out for the triad shock, mine has been back 4 times under warranty ( it always seems to go on cold rides) but I do ride a lot over the winter, 2-3k miles pa

Ade

Posted 1 year ago #
stumpy01 - Member

Just what you've described, Ade. The clearcoat started peeling off in small bits in odd places.

My LBS said they thought it was 'wear & tear' but stripped it & sent it back.

There were no more alloy frames in stock so I got offered the carbon version with Brain for £50 upgrade fee or wait for a 2011 alloy one. I went for the carbon.

I had an e-mail from someone on here a while back who had the same problem. He got his sent back & replaced with a new alloy frame.
I think Spesh have acknowledged it was a manufacturing issue. Get yours back & get it sorted!

Let us know how it goes...

Posted 1 year ago #
Frankers - Member

I have a SJ Expert EVO with a lower bb than the normal SJ, pedal strikes can be a problem on the 1st few rides but you can easily adapt, benefit of lower bb is stability on the downs and drops/jumps. I once used to own a 5 Spot and a Flux, when switching to the Flux I easily noticed the increased stability.

Posted 1 year ago #
mikewsmith - Member

probably a great bike, I had an 04 s-workd enduro but in the peak you will find the bearings suffer massively from the grit, up here in the lakes I could get loads more life from stuff. If the peaks was my main ride spot i'd be tempted by single pivot

Posted 1 year ago #
fattatlasses - Member

If the peaks was my main ride spot i'd be tempted by single pivot

Yes, I've been tempted by the Yeti ASR5 for this reason. The Yeti is a terrific ride, in a much more direct feeling suspension way, but it can't touch the Spesh for value, or rear wheel 'connectedness'.

Interesting to read about the probs with the Triad shock. I guess to put things in context, I've also had to have warranty repairs on a DT and Fox DRCV shock on previous bikes - but 4 times is a lot!

Posted 1 year ago #
stumpy01 - Member

My Triad shock survived 7 months including a pretty hard week in Spain with no issues, before it got chopped in with the frame swap.

MBR has a 2010 Stumpy Elite long termer & the shock had to be sent off once as the damping failed.

Just depends if you get a 'good' one I guess.

Posted 1 year ago #
Klunk - Member

what length cranks are you running ? I switched to 170 on the wifes 2007 stumpy though not a complete solution it has reduced the number of pedal strikes considerably (it's also more suited to her leg length too).

Posted 1 year ago #
fattatlasses - Member

The cranks on the demo bike (and the one I'm thinking of buying) are 175's. I know what you mean about the 170's - I wondered about this, but the crankset that's on it is superb, but, you can guess, it's a SRAM one specifically made for Spesh - so I think I'd struggle to get a 170mm (unless I could get Spesh to supply one off a small size bike).

Posted 1 year ago #
looneylunn - Member

I had a 2006 stumpy and rode it lots in the peaks. I then got a hecker in 2008. The stumpy stayed in the shed ever since. The stumpy is a superb bike and great value but I felt when I was pushing it over the rocks it was out of it's depth. I've not got much finnesse mind!

With the price of the current heckler frame you could build something with a decent spec for not much more than a stumpy?

Happy shopping!

Posted 1 year ago #
stumpy01 - Member

Now you mention it - I got a 170mm XT crankset for my old Stumpjumper FSR (2001) that I put on the new one. I bought it as I used to get loads of pedal strikes and thought it might help (plus it was cheaper than the 175mm version :o) )
I was surprised how much difference the shorter cranks made - much less pedal strike....

looneylunn - not sure you can compare the 2006 Stumpjumper to the current one.
The newest ones have more travel than the old ones & I think are a bit slacker.
I think the Camber steps into the role of the old Stumpjumper, whereas the Stumpjumper is more of a do-it-all bike.

I can only compare my (very) old 2001 model to the 2010 one, but the newer one gives me heaps more confidence down technical descents and feels a lot more able to soak things up.

Posted 1 year ago #
looneylunn - Member

Stumpy01

Good point. I'm not really up to date with the specs of stumpys. I should really get back in my box! Heckler is still great though!

The main issue I had was with front end flexyness, so if the new one has a bolt through axle it should be a lot better.

Posted 1 year ago #

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