Viewing 5 posts - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
  • Rotor trueing for hydraulics
  • OldGitSurrey
    Free Member

    Being a new convert from cable discs, I'm having great fun in centring my Hope Tech X2s by moving the caliper, centring the pads and jigging about with my new Park disc trueing fork.

    However, I've noticed that all my efforts to spin the wheel without the rotor touching the pads (even very slightly) all go to pot when the wheel is just removed and replaced.

    My question is this; does everyone get as anal as I with this trueing up or do people just ignore the slight rotor touch, as long as it's just a gentle touch and doesn't slow the wheel or produce heat?

    nedrapier
    Full Member

    I do.

    Park do a tool, but I've found that fingers do the trick quite nicely too. (with a clean rag or kitchen roll to keep your dirty mitts off the rotors)

    Edit: sometimes I find reading the question usefull as well.

    My discs seem to stay true enough between wheel fittings. Avid Elixir R

    wwaswas
    Full Member

    it does sound like it's not the rotor – if it's true when you take the wheel out it's not going to go out of ture when you put it back.

    things I've found have helped;

    1) try and always do the QR up to the same 'tightness'

    2) always push the down ont he saddle a few tiems after the wheels int he frame/fork and before doign up the QR to make sure everything is settled in.

    3) pull the brake a few times after you get the wheel back in to recentre the pads.

    4) don't worry about a tiny bit of rub.

    nickc
    Full Member

    New pads sometimes rub a bit, it's annoying, but it'll go away.

    OldGitSurrey
    Free Member

    Thanks experts.
    Wwaswas, I'm doing 1, 2 and 3 already – I'll learn to live with 4.
    Nickc, they're still in the process of breaking (no pun intended) in, so this is good to know. 😛

Viewing 5 posts - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)

The topic ‘Rotor trueing for hydraulics’ is closed to new replies.