Viewing 21 posts - 1 through 21 (of 21 total)
  • Roadbikeworld
  • scunny
    Free Member

    Having looked around the net for a similar site, i’ve failed. So can we just have one big thread on here to discuss all things road bike?

    Right, i had a Boardman Team Carbon last summer, but i never really used it. I got it for an amazing price so i sold it on and cut my losses, thinking that would be the end of it. Alas it was not, my group of friends have all started riding again, so i’m tagging along on a heavily upgraded Carrera TDF and loving it. I know, i know, it’s crap! But i honestly don’t notice that it’s holding me back (it’s basically only the original frame left anyway) so it’ll stay for a while yet.

    I’m looking at replacing the wheels from the tired old Mavics that are on there now. I’ve made myself a bit of money by clearing out the shed on ebay, and out of curiosity im thinking of buying these:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160732511381?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

    Is there any reason i shouldn’t? Bit of research seems to tell me they’re ok for the money, people review them as being worth the price, not groundbreaking but certainly not terrible.

    Few Q’s –

    Difference between clincher and tubs? If someone could explain what they are i’d appriciate it. Tubs = tubeless? Clincher = ?

    Bar width? Is it the same general rule as MTB bars, what ever feels comfortable? or is there a guideline regarding man size/bar size.

    Thanks in advance.

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    Forget tubs, they are costly and a faff. Clincher is a regular wire-on tire, tubeless exists for road also.

    Bars come in 40, 42, 44 c-c, match to your shoulders.

    oneoneoneone
    Free Member

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    mcmoonter
    Free Member

    Bars come in 40, 42, 44 c-c, match to your shoulders.

    Or even 46 if you are a gorilla

    scunny
    Free Member

    I thought as much, 44cm it is then.

    jimc101
    Free Member

    Carbon wheels from china – reason why – cheap, why not – getting hit with import duty / vat, quality control, warranty or lack of, if you need to warranty , cost of sending back to China, resale, not good compared to a big brand.

    Tubsvs clincher – for simple practicality, stick with clinchers, you can replace an innertube at the side of the road, changing a tub mean carrying a whole tire (tub) as replacement, if you have a support car following you at all times, go for the tub.

    Handlebar width – have a look herefor how to measure, there is also shape to consider, would to to a good road bike shop to see / feel the differences

    clubber
    Free Member

    46cm bars are almost always just 44cm (c-c) bars measured differently (outside to outside)

    as above forget tubs unless your racing seriously.

    scunny
    Free Member

    Ok, tubs are out (they we’re never really in, i just didn’t know what they were), as are the chinese wheels.

    I’ll probably just do the sensible thing and get some more Aksiums or Ksyriums.

    Shadow
    Free Member

    how much do you want to spend ?

    clubber
    Free Member

    I would suggest that the sensible thing would be to.get some handbuilt wheels which will be lighter for the money than the mavics…

    scunny
    Free Member

    Would like to stay at around £300 for the wheels. bike-discount.de seems to have some good prices.

    I’d be interested in looking at some hand built wheels though.

    YoKaiser
    Free Member

    Not that theres anything wrong with Mavic wheels there is better out there I reckon. I have a pair of Xero’s and Planet X model B’s both recommended, I also have some entry Shimano’s again nice and solid if not that light. And theres nothing wrong with tubs for a special event/race wheels, they roll nice they are invariably lighter and have better puncture protection.

    kilo
    Full Member

    I would suggest open pro’s on shimano hubs (105 up depending on cost)I’ve had cheap shimano factory built wheels and wouldn’t get them again – spoke issues. IMHO I feel a lot of cheaper wheels are much of a muchness ( i have a variety of odds and sods on bikes) and you’ll notice more difference from putting on a decent fast tyre than swapping between a planet x b or a xero (the mrs has a set of these they seem ok but I seem to recall they may have had a rep for flexiness)

    mudshark
    Free Member

    46cm bars are almost always just 44cm (c-c) bars measured differently (outside to outside)

    My 57cm Lemonds came with 46cm c-c bars for some reason.

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    Interesting, I’d not heard of road bars so wide…

    1300-1500gm wheels easily do-able for £250 odd plus labour with stans alpha rims, ebay light hub (front only or pair) and you get tubeless which is a real benefit IMO.

    scunny
    Free Member

    right, i got myself some bars, i’ll mull over wheels for another few days.

    Steel frames? Anything other than the Betty Leeds?

    singlespeeddan
    Free Member

    Steel frames… How much do you want to spend? Colnago master £1800? or something else? If you want retro, i am very pleased with my singular osprey and they are cheaper at the moment. Or try all city cycles mR. Pink. It looks pretty good too.

    ransos
    Free Member

    £300 should be enough for Open Pros on Ultegra hubs with DT rev spokes. Pretty light, very durable.

    TheDoctor
    Free Member

    Steel frames? try Waterford, Indy fab, Zullo or Gunnar.

    scunny
    Free Member

    Those Indy fab frames look amazing! my GF is going to kill me.

Viewing 21 posts - 1 through 21 (of 21 total)

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