The pad warning light has just come on. Last time we had [rear] pads changed it was a lot more than I thought it should cost so I’m thinking of changing them myself.
Are there any special tools required for this job (such as piston retractor) and is it tricky or straightforward. Also where would you get pads from?

On the front no you shouldnt need anything ‘special’. Try GSF or Euro car parts for pads, but pay the price of the OEM brand ones rather than the cheapy ones as it will make a difference.

Where are you? My best mate owns a VW specialist in Cannock who is considerably cheaper than a main dealer. Might be worth a shot:

Midland VW

Cheers AMD, but in Chester. I’m not too bad with spanners but don’t want to buy more tools or start something I can’t finish!

To retract pistons – undo reservoir cap, leave old pad in and use an F-clamp or G-clamp.

Biggest problem you are likely to have is undoing any of the large caliper bolts. If just doing pads it should just be the slider bolts though. The big ones that hold the caliper yoke onto the hub that need to be indone to remove the disc are another story and need 19-21mm sockets for a reason!

Be careful with the wear sensor wires.

Use an anti-seize on the back of the pads. Copper grease is fine but do not get it on the piston seals. Something like Mintex/Textar cera-tec is safer and £1.99 for a small tube.

Make sure you use threadlock on any bolt that had some one (obvious blue on the threads). I normally use the 248 prit-stick style from Halfords as it is easier.

Wire brush the caliper yoke to clean off brake dust and ensure the pads slide freely and use a bit of anti-seize here too to keep the pad moving nicely.

You may also have some anti rattle washers so don’t forget them.

And last bit of advice is take lots of pictures before you start or get both wheels off the ground and do one side at a time in case you get stuck putting it all back – silly little things always crop up the 1st time.

Remember to tighten the reservoir seal before you test them and check the fluid level.

oh as for pads:

GSF, Eurocarparts, Buy Parts By or your local motor factors.

Makes like Mintex, Textar (own Mintex), Bendix, Ferrodo etc are all good quality and who I normally use as they will be at least OEM quality.

One more thing – tighten reservoir cap and pump the brakes after the first one to make sure it is okay and so when you do the second you don’t push the brake fluid out of the reservoir.

I am a DIYer so not a car professional so the above is rough advice – use at your own risk! I was doing full brake changes, cambelts and citroen hydraulics at a main dealer at 15 when I wasn’t your usual work experience school kid.

As above, the g clamp thing is very good advice, though when I do it, I don’t leave the pad in place.

Another good source of pads and discs (once you have the caliper off they are a 1 min job if needed – on mk1-4 golfs anyway, so replace if there is a big lip, or lots of corrosion) is next day brakes .com they sell brembo pads and discs at great prices to your door. They have been much cheaper than eurocarparts comparing to pagid brakes and are better quality too

Reason I tend to leave the pad in is it stops people damaging the piston dust seal with the clamp and acts as a natural stop so you know when it is pushed in enough and not forced too far.

Finally got round to doing the job this afternoon, nice and simple – the g clamp and old brake pad worked a treat. Turns out the wear indicator light came on because the wire to the pad had broken and pads were not too bad but changed them anyway.
Cheers guys.