I want one of these "man" power tools as we have a wood burning stove and there are tonnes of downed branches and logs in the forest behind my house. Figured I could get some of them seasoning before winter or for next.

Problem is the mrs is dead against we getting a chainsaw, seems to think I will lop off a foot or something. Probably justified as I am a bit clumsy!!. Dropped the axe on my foot the other day and was a bit bruised!!

Anyway if I were to get one, what should it be? Petrol, electric? What power, brand etc?

Also what to look out for when using one, some have a bit of kickback dont they?

Get a petrol one. As powerful as possible to maximise man points.

Watch out for metal ie nails in the wood.

Take pictures of any injuries.

"downed branches and logs in the forest"
are all part of the ecosystem of the forest.

Do a chainsaw course: NPTC.
The instructor on the course will advise on what to buy, including the saw, boots, gloves etc

Most powerful Husky you can afford, Always cut on full power, use bottom of bar and avoid the tip,
Think about what you're doing.
I used to cut myself with the bowsaw all the time, in 15 years with a chainsaw ive not had so much as a nick. When it happens it'll be a big one tho.

You can get a short course fairly cheap

Stihl, and wear the right clothing. I once had a running chainsaw drop on my head, got a big lump but not cuts. When it landed on the concrete it bounced all over the place, bent the bar and killed the chain. About 5 seconds later the branch of the tree came down about a foot from me on the other side. there was about 10 seconds silence before the guy in the tree said sorry, weirdly we then pissed ourselves laughing for about 10 minutes. We were taking a bough off an oak tree to build a shed on a farm I was working at.

I`ve got a Stihl 026 in excellent condition for sale if you are interested? I was in a similar position to you and was told that this saw was the industry standard. I would second the short course ideas, these things are absolutely lethal!

MS026 are great saws we use to use them at work before moving over to Husky :x. As said above get a course and ALWAYS wear chainsaw boots and trousers and ask whoever owns the wood for permission to remove the wood.

Can you borrow one? I borrowed one from my partners uncle and in a day of chopping we have enough wood for a year, he had all the safety gear too. The first couple of cuts were very nervey.

If you are doing logs then a saw horse or cradle is essential for safety and your back.

Hmm. I think I am getting put off, they sound quite dangerous. The Father in law has one, maybe Ill borrow that 1st or maybe I should just stick to my bow saw and develop some upper body strength!

Thanks for the advice anyhow.

Seems its also going to be more expensive than I imagined, thinking I could just spend £100 on an cheap saw from b&Q, but with leggings, boots, gloves, goggles, saw horse and training course its easier for me to get a tonne of logs delivered for £60-£80.

Yes I think I have wussed out!!

Organic
Just get a large good quality bowsaw they cut thorough logs really quickly and the exercise is good

I have stopped using my chainsaw as i got the fear after reading on the web, but burning logs that have been cut & seasoned by yourself is very satisfying

I LOVE splitting logs on a winters day Axes and mauls are mans tools!

Recently went down this route for much the same reason, bought a Stihl with a 12" bar from a reputable shop and bought a Portek log master stand http://www.portek.co.uk/logmaster.html
This clamps the chainsaw in place and makes cutting logs a doddle, so much so that a proffesional tree feller we used said he was going to get one to make his job easier. Mrs k was against me getting a chainsaw – something about clumsiness, must be a mountain biker thing, but she was very taken with this kit and wasv soon sawing logs herself. Get a good visor and ear defenders.

this looks like you could lose fingers/hands really easily;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bVAAx3mMKY&NR=1&feature=fvwp

You need one of these:

Apparently, there's a saying amongst hospital staff, "There's no such thing as a minor chainsaw injury". 😀

Beauty of chainsaws is they don't cut they rip. I've only had one mishap with a saw clearing a blockage in the river when the branch I was cutting suddenly went with the flow catching debris underneath and whipped back catching the saw across my leg. Luckily the trousers did their job but it still left me with a very big bruise 2" wide across my thigh and a sore leg for a few days.

Dont be put off tho OP, Theyre not too dangerous as long as you give it a bit of respect

Husqavarna. Be careful use common sense and the right gear you'll be fine.

Husky 346XPG, 15 inch bar.
Proper training, and decent PPE.
Run it on Aspen 2T from the start, and use the Stihl biolube for the bar.

I used to get lots of problems with pins & needles and poor feel in my hands from using my previous Husky 'farm' chainsaw, but the vibration isolation in the 346 is 100x better, and really works to take the edge off.

It's a great saw, lots of power and a good kilo lighter than the 357, which'll make a difference at the end of the day. You'll still cut pretty significant sized rounds with it.

There is no such thing as a small cut (unless you slip when sharpening it), but the right PPE can make a significant contribution to the outcome of any accident. No PPE, or the wrong PPE isn't any use (the trench in my shin is a constant reminder of that … :?)

If you work safely, plan the job, keep the site clear, think about what you are doing, and are properly trained (stuff like not using the tip et cetera), they are as safe to use as anything else is. Ideally, you'll need other stuff too, a sharpening kit, and a couple of wedges will start you off. A good splitting maul makes a big difference too – they are expensive as mauls go, but the Granfors Bruks splitting maul is a fantastic tool.

I use a 346xpg for work which replaced our Stihl MS260 and a Husky 372xpg. For my type of work I would rather have a new MS026 over the Husky.

Think of a chainsaw like a gun; both can cause horrendous injuries but can be used safely if you know what you are doing. Like a gun the danger manifests itself in predictable directions. Just as you wouldn't place yourself in front of a loaded gun, if you know how it might throw a chain or kick back you can avoid the danger. Quality PPE is a must; after you've priced your saw you must then double your budget to include PPE. THEN budget for tools, fueling and oiling kit etc. Make sure you have a secure yet ventillated place to store your kit, remember the saw and fuel containers may create explosive atmospheres, and also to look after the saw it needs to be kept dry and away from great temperature variations that will cause condensation. Try to get a class on servicing and sharpening the chain; ideally have a spare one and clean, lube and turn the bar over regularly.

Stihl all the way..

I too have a log burner and my only experience comes from my dads cheap Mcullogh/B&Q chainsaw.

Just use common sense and read the manual first, in this case its a must, its not a hoover/washing machine.

I never use it for cutting down a tree only for cutting logs, cutting trees is for tree surgeons.

Made some log holders out of large off cuts of tree stumps and followed the instructions.

As for which chainsaw, this one works just fine (since i had the blade sharpened).

Sorry to dig up an old post, but just wanted to get your opinion.

I got myself one of those logmaster saw horses and am now deciding on the saw.

I am swaying towards an electric as it will be less hassle and seem to think that the Husqvarna 321 EL seems to be fairly well rated?

Anyone used one?

Also do all electric chainsaws come with soem kind of RCD device incase you cut through the cable, or is that something you need to buy extra? Cables on the pics of the Husky only seem to show a very short cable:

Husqies are great Chainsaws they go all day long with no problems.

I thought electric but then recently a local farmer had a downed tree that I could have.

I don’t have a 2 mile extension lead so it’s a good job I bought petrol..

I have a 40cc Ryobi 16′ saw that I used to cut up some railway sleepers, got a face mask and showed it respect. Never had no problems and whilst I can see why regular users wear chain link clothes etc I think it’s fine to use one as long as you familiarise yourself with how it works, how to cut safely and don’t play with it, make your cuts and put it away.

I have a 40cc Ryobi 16′ saw that I used to cut up some railway sleepers,

You’d able to cut down half a forest in one swoop with that. 😯

Have a look on the BTCV website. They do cheap courses to introduce yourself to chainsaw usage. The NPTC CS30 would be useful to you. It’s a maintenance and cross cutting qualification which is ideal for people wanting to do home logging work (no jokes please!)

I’ve got a little Stihl MS181 and am mightily impressed with it’s capabilities for a small light saw. It’s felled way above it’s weight and been a joy to use for logging as it’s so light but still perky on power.

Tim

I bought a bosch electric job for a great price; really great saw and i can log wood without upsetting the neighbours. I’ve also been given an Echo 2-stroke which is surprisingly good. Was previously looky at husky 286(?)e.

I must invest in some safety gear, however as i know I’m probably a bit cavalier when it comes to safety!

Will it fit in your mule though Organic? 😉

My experience of Ryobi chainsaws are that their pap, so I’m surprised that they manage a railway sleeper, they must have improved dramatically. The one my friend bought, wouldn’t even cut straight from new & the chain is a different pitch to anything else normally used (Stilh/Husky).

No experience of electric chainsaws though, just a stupidly dangerous Stilh prunning chainsaw (one handed scaryness), which works a treat and much better than the Ryobi

I love chainsaws – I once got to use over several weeks some 36″ 80cc ones – they were great fun 🙂

I’ve got a 321 for logging up at home, several years use now and no issues. Brilliant little saw. Yes the cable is ridiculously short – single-socket extension lead sorts it out.

I bought a Husky 236e a couple of months ago and it’s been great. I’ve found a cheap chain provider on eBay and so its not even worth all the hassle of sharpening them.

You can buy Huskys online, but not Stihls. My mate (hi Jimbo!) who does this stuff professionally, swears by Stihls.

Just add up the extras – gloves £25, chaps £100, Helmet / visor £20, Boots £30 etc. etc.

We use a variety of Husqys for firewood duties on the ground (I think tree surgeons tend to prefer lighter saws). Cut everything from branches to trunks up to around 1.5m and get through several tonnes per week (it’s not my full time job!) for most of the year. Learning how to look after both yourself and your saw is imperative. Get a good maul for splitting. As we tend to be out and about we don’t use saw horses.

….so its not even worth all the hassle of sharpening them

You are kidding aren’t you?? 😯 The sharpening kit is less than the cost of the chain and will keep a chain sharp for aaaaaagggggggeeeeeeesssssss

I’ve found a cheap chain provider on eBay and so its not even worth all the hassle of sharpening them.

Jesus ! Do you buy a new bike every time you get a puncture as well ?
Dead easy to sharpen a chain once you have the right tools. Give it a quick once over after every time you use it and you’ve got a nice sharp saw all the time.

Jesus ! Do you buy a new bike every time you get a puncture as well ?

No, but I do tend to use a new tube and then patch the old one later – not quite the same thing though.

I’m probably doing something wrong with the chains, but even though I’ve got the kit – right size file with guide, instructions etc., I’ve not had much success in getting them sharp. The chains I buy cost £7.

my McCulloch one has been going strong for 8 years now, gets used every year for chopping firewood and starts fisrt time. Same my cheapo Mcuculloch strimmer, always starts and runs ok.