Mrs S wanted a summer house so i built one (assembled one really). She now wants a wood burner in it for the 360 days when it is not sunny and hot.
I need something relatively cheap, small and easy to install. Space is a bot of a premium. The summer house is (obviously) wooden so I would rather not set fire to it. I have the option of flue going straight up though the roof or out the back wall then up.
I am watching with interest! I have done some research as I am building a summer house myself. I am staggered by the range of stoves from the minuscule to the mahoosive and the price range is also huge!
I did mine through the roof. Relatively difficulterer due to the bow shape of me roof but more nice looking overall I thought.
You can pick up silicone gaskets very easily online.
I found a second hand stove but if buying new, the Machine Mart Clarkes one is quite nice. A little pot belly thing. My girlfriend has one in her shed and it’s a nice little stove though you won’t really fit ‘logs’ in it.
Flue and gasket [url=https://flic.kr/p/wCex8b]07-27-15 Flue fitted[/url] by Kayak23, on Flickr
Inside view when first fitted [url=https://flic.kr/p/CfxAKk]inside view 2[/url] by Kayak23, on Flickr
I think whether you go through the wall or roof depends on a few things such as roof overhang. Generally it’ll be easier through the roof as you can often just get away with straight flue pipe.
I’m sure i’ve seen one placed in the corner of a summer house. As part of the installation they had clad the inside of the summerhouse part way up the wall and installed a stone hearth.
Even though I’m a woodburner lover, I’d also consider a wee oil filled radiator. No, not as atmospheric, but really practical and cheap to run too.
I have one in the bike shed, even in an uninsulated wooden structure, it takes the edge off of a cold night fettling. I’d imagine it’d be ace in an insulated howf.
There are loads of people making and selling small burners in all sorts of shapes and sizes in various groups on Facebook.
They mostly go for around £150 with no flue.
Pretty sure those cheap ones will be single wall flue. You can always run a double wall section as it exits the roof though as long as your gasket is rated for the temp it should be fine.
I built a tiled hearth around mine onto Hardiebacker board.
Yep, obviously buyer beware on all of those random ones, but I quite like the fact that it’s a cottage (with a welder) industry.
I would try and seek out a recommendation, but it might be tricky unless you trawl.
Otherwise you could play it safe and go with a good blacksmith like Windy Smithy.
We stayed in a bell tent last weekend with a stove, I realise now it was a rip off Windy Smithy Wendy, looked identical in every respect but finish was poor and it had a very small window on it. Performance was great though.
Window not too big a deal for us, it really is for heating rather than cosmetics so with Wendy might be a front runner
I put a Windy Smithy ‘Louis’ stove in my yurt, when I had it; faultless performance, but they tend to prefer thinner sticks rather than chunky logs, so do need slightly more frequent refuelling.
Has anyone used one of those Machine Mart pot belly stoves in the garden? My wife wants a little stove for the garden for extra heat whilst quaffing wine. (In reality we live on a windy hill in West Yorkshire. It’ll get used once a year and anything not anchored down will get blown away in a gale. Although I suppose cast iron should withstand the weather with a coat of hammerite?).
(In reality we live on a windy hill in West Yorkshire. It’ll get used once a year and anything not anchored down will get blown away in a gale. Although I suppose cast iron should withstand the weather with a coat of hammerite?).
Has anyone used one of those Machine Mart pot belly stoves in the garden? My wife wants a little stove for the garden for extra heat whilst quaffing wine.
An aside on the subject of tent stoves: ensure that the chimney sections are joined ‘Female’ end up/ ‘Male’ end down. Many designs aren’t, and that leads to tarry liquids leaking out of the joints and staining / stinking the place out. Just saying. Sorry to go off piste.
An aside on the subject of tent stoves: ensure that the chimney sections are joined ‘Female’ end up/ ‘Male’ end down. Many designs aren’t, and that leads to tarry liquids leaking out of the joints and staining / stinking the place out. Just saying. Sorry to go off piste.
Interesting point. I’ve built a couple for yurts and have designed the joints the opposite way round to minimise the chance of smoke leaks. I have had the problem you mentioned once, but properly weather sealing the flue/roof and not burning damp wood, or burning too cool, should stop that happening.
I haven’t had the liquid problem mentioned, but I do know that burning too cool in a tent is likely due to wanting to eek out the longest burn times possible so you can stay asleep.
I’ve had 6 hours out of mine so far, but the flue definitely getting gradually covered in tar as a result (over about 10-15 burns).
If I get approval for a workshop at the bottom of the garden I’ll put in a stove that can burn sawdust. I’m planning on putting it in a corner with heat resistant panels…one thing I’m concerned about is it not burning down my wood built, wood filled workshop while it burns out.
@Kayak, were you on that sheds programme presented by the guy who thinks everything is ‘incredible’?
McHamish I have built a timber framed workshop at the back of our house for my commercial woodworking. I put an Oakfire sawdust burning stove in – works a treat. Just make sure you follow installation guide and allow the safe distances around the stove and flue.
That said, no one will insure my shed now…
Also, on the garden stove idea I’ve been using the drum out of an old washing machine as a portable firepit. Works a treat.
HETAS recommend twice a year for domestic installations.
Personally, I’ve never found it necessary for my workshop stove – I give the flue a whack with a mallet every now and then to knock down any clinker, and sweep out the 90° bend where it accumulates and that’s about it.
bodgy – Member
Do the flues have to be ‘brushed’ a la chimneys??
HETAS recommend twice a year for domestic installations.
Personally, I’ve never found it necessary for my workshop stove – I give the flue a whack with a mallet every now and then to knock down any clinker, and sweep out the 90° bend where it accumulates and that’s about it.
Try Fireplace Products if your looking for wood burning stoves lots of choice available, perhaps something with a small foot print put that is tall would be better suited to a smaller space? So you can place larger logs inside with a nice size window, the La Nordica Super Junior is quite nice and has a cooking plate on top. Providing you use twinwall double insulated flue off the top and properly insulate around the fire you should be okay with regards to distances to combustibles. Hope it helps.
Posted 6 years ago
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